Yandards

Brakes all sorted, just need some tax and a quick wash and wax and shes ready to go! Some pictures of the current installation and belt tensioning setup prior to the engine refit. [ATTACH=CONFIG]47741[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]47742[/ATTACH]

Tdi shifter tower is designed to work with the Tdi cable support bracket, propbably why your gear selection was a little rubbish. The cables come out of the builkhead the same way on a Tdi powered car and the later Corrados also use the one on top setup as oppossed to the earlier side by side arrangement. I think the cable length is a little longer but after tweaking mine I know the issue lies in getting the cables fixed to the shifter tower in the correct spot. Steve, frankly if it works right now then it can stay like it - I don't feel the need to start thinking about mods to the car right now although I do have a rear end underside and brakes overhaul planned for the winter as the rear beam is looking nasty and the only MOT advisories were the rear beam solid lines.

I did a bit yesterday, when I say gear selection was an issue it was finding the right gear in the right place than an issue making the selection once I knew where the various gears where given the tower height cable was in the wrong place.

Its selecting ok now after I adjusted the throw on the cable for the shifter tower height. Cables feel ok through the range although 5th was a bit sticky until I relocated a pipe and the back of the ISV to clear the balance weights when it is in 5th gear. Did you also replace the cable to gearbox attachment bracket that swaps the cables over from side by side to one on top of the other? Will need to take it out on a diagnostic run tomorrow to check the brakes and fill up wth petrol etc, hoping the gear selection feels ok but if not I can always put the original shifter tower back in.

Thanks folks. Alex, TDi stuff and it all clears ok as the gearbox side of my install is not exactly factory so nothing is catching it. Steve, yes some Redline MTL90 and it is a defo a cable selection problem, its just in the wrong place! Gareth, Just need to get down the road in one piece to calm my nerves a little, be good to catch up and play spot your modifications since last year. Coullstar, Limited was indeed 210bhp but I would expect a bit more given the differences in my setup, a 16vg60 using more standard bits but with a smaller pulley in a golf produced 215bhp with a nice flat torque curve that peaks at 250Nm with a profile similar to a VR6 plus a bit more. It did feel much nicer than last year on the drive to and from the MOT yesterday so hopefully post a decent mapping session it should be very good.

It went in for the MOT yesterday, as soon as I pressed the brake pedal I thought bugger, very spongy and the car doesn't stop too well. Next problem was the gear selection, I couldn't select reverse in the morning so had adjusted the cables at the gearbox, this resulted in reverse being where 1st normally is, 1st and 2nd where 3rd and 4th are, 3rd where 5th is, 4th in the empty hole behind 5th and no 5th gear at all :(. Still an MOT was booked and I didn't have time to fix any of this now so I duly took it down and told them about the dodgy brakes and wierd gear selection, I then walked over to VW (just round the corner) to pick up some clips complete with the car key - duh! Despite all of that I still have a green MOT pass certificate in my hand although the brakes where just on the limit so a re-bleed is required, well chuffed after all the work. Aside from that the ECU map is that far off it doesn't like to start and idles badly, I have the idle screw all the way out and it still won't get high enough to rev at the correct speed during idle when cold and on the set-up procedure. Driving is a different experience though, a few more enthusiastic pokes of the throttle yesterday (no where near full throttle but just getting the bigger throttle butterfly open) resulted in a nice big wedge of torque and I had it up to 3.5k where it starts to feel like it is really going to take off in a big way. The mk 3 Golf diesel ASD box with G60 3rd and 4th feels good, although I have not had chance to put it through a full gear selection and use the very long 5th gear (60mph = 2k rpm). I am hoping it will settle a little once the engine has some more miles on it and it really needs a proper ECU map to get it running nicely. Engine temps get high in traffic but the cooling fan is doing its job ok this year, I would like to fit a smaller fan to the oil cooler as that will help greatly when stop start traffic. So some brake bleeding, gearbox cables to sort, stick some wax on it and an oil change and she should be ready to go on Thursday for the run down to BVF on the Friday.

Well its back in one piece and just needs the timing, CO2 and idle setting to get it ready for the MOT (and a wash). Been a marathon 9 days, luckily I was on holiday last week as my shortest day has been around 10 hours with the longest yesterday at 16! Much happier with the 'Version 2' edition, it looks the same but all the looming is much tidier and I have taken the time to work out the best routing for PAS, oil cooler and coolant lines at the front of the engine so I now have enough space to get at the oil filter without having to remove most of the boost pipework. Got some photos but not many as it was all work work work you know but hopefully it will pass the MOT tomorrow at 14:30.

After thinking about this I will go with James Dyson.

I suspect the 989A variation may be for the USA style adapter plate.. Go for the 535 813 989 version as that is the original item.

It's just stuck in the tank thanks to years of grime getting wedged into the seals.

When was the last time you had your right arm calibrated to read 10Nm? None of it was torqued up properly after the last head removal as I only needed to check for compression as it all had to come off again! I even bought a set of crows feet spanners to torque up those bits you can't normally do with a regular socket; oh and stainless stuff torques up completely differently as well.. Well in a week I need to be about 2 hours into my journey south for BVF, car currently looks like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]47594[/ATTACH] Got to make up new front to back brake lines (old ones are off), topcoat then lacquer the treated rusty areas, swap the charger bracket on the engine over for one that is not bent, fit the charger belt, refit the bottom metal coolant pipe, refit the PAS brackets, tidy the wiring loom up a little more, refit the washer bottle, header tank, brake and PAS reservoirs, rebuild the brakes, paint the brake servo, refit the shifter tower, fit the clutch slave cylinder, refit the oil pump, windage tray and sump, put the engine back in and connect it all up, bleed the brakes and refit the rad support panel, x member, slam panel and front bumper. Then re-calibrate the wideband controller, get it running and dial in the timing, idle speed and CO2 setting. Should be ok.

I am begining to suspect this engine does not want to be used... Cracked on yesterday with the head removal so I could replace the conrod stretch bolts and bearings, spent ages trying to get the head off and ended up bending one of the ARP rods (luckily at the No. 10 position). Then the pistons were being annoying when I was refitting them and I ended up cracking the oil scrapper (3rd ring) on no.4 - luckily I had a spare to fit. I also managed to break the oil squirter in no.1 whilst trying to refit that piston, finally the bloody head would not go back down the ARP rods so I swore a bit and called it a night. Today started off much better, a spot of scissor jack action soon saw the head back on and I had everything back on bar the downpipe and a few odds and ends by the end of the day so I could get a belt length for the new tensioner setup. I soon discovered that the metal lug on the charger bracket (replacement item that I had painted) was bent as the swing arm was miles out of alignment with the charger tensioner and the pulley was catching on the cam cover! Cue some more swearing and a spot of irritation. Various other niggles sorted today, timing belt upper and lower covers modified to clear the various bits that get in the way so they sit properly, tapped a few holes to clean up the threads, new gearbox cable support bracket has been fitted, replaced the injectors with overhauled items and torque checked a load of items on the engine. So the plan tomorrow is paint up the old charger bracket, get the charger back off and then remove the busted bracket, aside from the painting hassle it's not a major pain in the bum and I have managed to get a belt length - 1520mm, or one from a 1.0l Lupo with PAS and aircon. Should have the engine complete bar the oil squirter and head bolt, easy enough to do with it back in the bay - in fact torqueing the head will be a lot easier as it is currently on the crane! Then onto bulkhead tidy up, couple of new brake lines and that should be it with a spot of luck - which I am more than due after the last couple of days. On a different note I went out a bought another torque wrench as Supercharged was complaining nothing was done up properly - I keep telling him that when stuff is new you don't need to lean on it as hard to get it undone! No photos as I have been crafting away from around 10 until 10 and no time to take pics as BVF is just over a week away and I need to get it through an MOT yet..

Nice one Kip, be good to see it on the move!

Fleabay for both. The tape is made by Scapa and is designed for the engine bay, fire retardent, heat resistant and self almagamating.

Fla I don't know yet as I have not driven it, but it certainly sounds different when you tap it. Kip It's only a fraction of the pictures, I have a wedge of bits being stripped down and rebuilt that I might get around to doing guides to one day ;) Cazza MOT time, then onto the paintwork. Longer term plan is to tweak here and there - odd tidying jobs like painting the inlet manifold etc. Neil In terms of the plug wiring it should be pretty simple, the radio plug that is not for the speakers is the one you want and is made up of the following wires: Earth, brown wire pin 8 Ignition switched live, brown with a red stripe pin 4 Permanent live, black with a yellow stripe, pin 7 (this runs through fuse position 22) Illumination, grey with a blue stripe, pin 6 (shares the illumination feed with the cigarette lighter, ash tray, glove box and additional instruments if fitted) There area couple more wires in there for speed signal, etc but those are the ones you will need.

I would swap the filter first just to see what happens, if you have a high mileage car that has not had a filter change yet then it will be a right mess. The fuel gauging system is integral to the pump as critical mass mentions above but as you have had an erratic gauge and then fuel pump issues it is more likely to be a wiring snag in my book. Well worth having a look at the wiring first, you can carry out a continuity check from the fuel pump relay (position 12 on the fuse box) direct to the pump itself just to confirm there are no wiring snags. The fuel gauge is damped by a voltafge regulator to prevent it from constantly moving when driving due to the fuel sloshing around in the tank, so just how is the fuel gauge erratic?

You have to consider that the numbers provided are in VW speak and they probably relate to model year not actual years. Kip never read the instruction manual that comes with the car then ? Best I ever managed from my 16v was 45mpg, or 10 miles to the litre, confirmed when I filled it up at the petrol station.

I always used to use Footman James for my Triumph on a classic policy, its a GT6 (2 ltr straight 6 group 18, 1972) and I was on unlimited mileage, aged 23 1 years NCB all for £160! Yes it was a few years ago (1999) but that was still a whole lot cheaper than anyone else and I had modded the car (all declared) quite a bit as well. I can't get over the ever increasing cost of car insurance these days; my highly modified 16vg60 sets me back £360 fully comp with all mods declared and UK track day cover, the daily G60 with some replacement boost tubes in the engine bay and exhaust has seen quotes upwards of a £1000!! My renewal on that car this year was just under £200 and when you consider I live in what has to be one the cheapest areas of the country for insurance then £200 is a bloody rip off just because insurance companies don't understand that the 5bhp max I got from swapping some plastic tube to metal isn't a major modification..

Crikey its been a while since an update. Suffice to say stuff has been done (quite a lot of stuff in fact), so here is a quick summary: New heater matrix fitted complete with new foam on the paddles and all new seals for all of the ducts etc; I cleaned up the bottom of the heater matrix box to remove all the dead leaf gunk etc and also cleaned all the heater ducts up inside and out as far as possible. An alarm appears to have been magically installed.. Got the plastic welding kit out and had a good go at sorting the centre console, a lot more solid than it was and the radio cage is now fitted properly. Heater controls have been stripped down, lightly lubed in all the right places and then refitted with some new cables, I also fitted a 3 x green LED bulb in the hope of improving the rubbish level of illumination but it's not good enough :( Moddified the head unit I had laying around from blue and white text on the main screen to green and white text by fitting some green filter plastic, looks very 90s. Interior all rebuilt, cleaned up, sound deading foam added to various points, extensive use of waxoil in all the cavities (rear arches and the sills), carpet, dash and door cards all refitted properly using the correct/new fasteners. Then it was onto the suspension work, new standard shocks fitted front and rear with new top mounts, used but refurbished VR6 springs, new wishbone bushes (R32 rear ones), new track rod ends, new ball joints, new arb links and new arb bushes. Stance is now back to 'off road VR' look but it is a daily and it makes the insurance easier to deal with. The bloody drivers side inner CV joint popped apart when I was doing that side so I had to strip that down and rebuild it all; ended up cleaning all the grease out and splitting the CV joint down to ball bearings and housings. Brakes were bled post line replacement, both front caliper bleed screws sheared in the housing, some penetrating oil, freeze spray, heat, Irwin bolt grippers and a hammer got them out without too much bother; as you can see from the colour of the brake fluid it had not been changed in a while! Next up was the engine bay, new radiator required, PAS line to replace and some rust to get rid off. I have ended up fixing quite a few wiring loom bodges, cleaning up a lot of areas, used around 35m of wiring loom tape and fitted a lot of missing clips etc. The oil filter housing drain plug was completely nerfed so a new one has been fitted, I also replaced one of the oil pressure switches as that fell to pieces when I poked it. Inner wings on both sides had spots of rust thats been cut back, treated and then painted with 2 layers of Zinga and then 2 layers of stonechip guard - it's matt black but you cant really see it where it's been painted. Cleaned out the old water expansion tank to get rid of all the gunk, I was chuffed that when refilled with fresh coolant you can now see the level with ease, windscreen washer bottle has had a similar treatment. Suffice to say it now looks a lot better and the wiring should last a good few years longer. After all that I went to start it yesterday to establish the levels for coolant and oil, turned over but didn't fire checked for spark, nothing. Plugged VAG-COM in and couldn't get that to talk to the engine ECU but it would talk to the ABS one. Thought I could smell fuel so figured the ECU was working ok and then started checking the coil pack for faults, nothing. After an afternoon spent with the multimeter and the Motronic fault finding process I finally narrowed it down to a dodgy ECU relay and a plug missing from the back of the fusebox (Y1 - it provides the ECU memory with permanent live to save fault codes). Eventually got it started by wiggling the ECU relay in the board to then find the replacement radiator I fitted has a hairline crack new the drivers side top front duct screw hole :( Tried a spot of plastic welding on it so will go and see how that holds out today. Still need to refurb and rebuild the drivers seat but apart from that and the bodywork needing a good going over it's not been too bad. 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PMSL, IIRC Jim had one of those way back on 06 to replace his G60 as it was unreliable and too expensive, the mk 4 ended up costing more in repairs than the Corrado ever did. Every mk 4 I have plugged in for some VAG-COM action seems to have a number of faults directly proportional to the model spec, the more electronics in it the worse it is. A mate has a mk 4 4 motion with only 55k on it and despite that a good few of the sensors are shot and the interior lights have a fault on them which means they won't switch off automatically. Best bet is to get the lowest spec diesel you can find with the least number of toys on it, less stuff to go wrong and it is only a daily snotter after all.

Mounts are not too bad but you will need to do all 3 at once or you will just wear out new mount/s too quickly through through one of the old ones still being fitted. When you change them make sure you do the mount to subframe/gearbox/front crossmember side of the mount up tight first, stick the engine side of the bolts in and do them up by finger a couple of turns then give the engine a bloody good push a few times to get the engine to settle on the new mounts properly. This should ensure you get years from the replacment mounts and they don't wear out too quickly.

Not too expensive, come with new rubber boots, locking bolt and some red grease to suit, 8E0 698 470 B is the part number and you will need 2 kits at around £10 a side.

That's my understanding too, as it is a requirement that you have both a valid MOT and insurance to be able to get road tax then both of those must be valid if the vehicle is used/kept on public roads. The new law was brought in to attempt to reduce the number of uninsured drivers around and to allow the Police to seize vehicles from private land. To comply with the law now you car must either be taxed, have a valid MOT and insurance if it is kept/used on the public highway or be parked on private land with a valid SORN declaration (no insurance, tax or MOT required in this case); if not then the Police can have the vehicle towed away and crushed. All the legislation change does is mean that folks have to keep their cars SORNed if parked off the road, the legislation is designed to capture those people that don't tax, insure or SORN their car but use it on the public highway. As for the information, a SORN reminder/renewal or a new tax disc in the post will come with a selection of leaflets, I know one of those covered the new legislation when I last renewed a SORN.

On hard acceleration the engine mounts will give making the distance between the gear selector cables and the gearbox change, this can make it very difficult to change gear. I assume that the gearbox shifter weight is still fitted on the shifter tower and is secured correctly? This can also contribute to a sloppy gear change. Check for worn engine mounts by pushing the engine by hand, it shouldn't move much at all. Finally it could be a worn clutch or dodgy clutch slave cylinder.

Main dealer discs and I like the EBC greenstuff pads, they stop well are nice and progressive and don't make a lot of dust. Well worth getting a sliding pin refurb kit and caliper refurb kit from VW to overhaul the replacement setup.