Yandards

Gates do make a refurb kit, part no 348390, but I can't find out what's in it nor a supplier this side of the atlantic. The other option is to fit a 16v PAS pump and get a spacer manufactured as the only difference is the length of the output shaft.

Poly bushes will also wear the wishbone arm Bush hole oval as they are too stiff and the rear Bush is designed to move.

If you do start swapping out suspension rubber components then make sure you do all of them at the same time. The reason is that by fitting one/two new bushes etc they will take up the slack in the existing worn bushes causing them to wear out faster. A complete new set followed by a bit of 4 wheel alignment action to cover camber as well as tracking makes a world of difference.

It should not be that heavy, might be worth checking the tension on the V belt that drives the PAS pump and consider a PAS pump fluid change. From personal experience in having owned both VRs and 4 cylinder cars over the years (and at the same time to enable a direct comparison) I find the 4 cylinder cars handling to be a lot better than the VR due to both the suspension arrangement and the location of the engine/weight in relation to the front axle.

Good to see you got out of that mostly intact, I doubt a more modern car would have offered much more impact protection in those circumstances. Hope there is not too much of a faff with insurance.

Yep, its for an air rec-circ valve that lives near the factory airbox, but as you have a BMC airbox fitted its now redundant.

Well the blackberry VR project will not be completed I have finally admitted to myself so it needs to go. Loads of work carried out but it needs paint to finish it and some new rear discs and pads to get it through an MOT. I am selling my VR Corrado VR6 project as I do not have the time to complete it. The car has been off the road since 2009 but was taken for an MOT prior to me buying it in Mar 2011 - it failed on various issues including corroded brake lines, leaking PAS pipe etc etc. I have replaced/rectified all the MOT failure items but the car will need new rear discs and pads as they will not clean up for an MOT - I have the discs (new) and some wheel bearings to go in them but no pads. A brief summary of the work carried out is: Removed all the interior including carpets and dashboard, all items were cleaned and rust removed and treated then refitted with all the correct fittings. Heater matrix replaced with genuine VW item. Toad Ai606 Cat 1 alarm and immobiliser fitted. Drivers seat backrest foam, lower outer seat bolster foam and seat foam replaced with used items from a passenger seat. Original specification rear light clusters sourced and fitted. Original specification airbox fitted. Battery replaced. Radiator replaced. Engine bay wiring loom wrapped in correct wiring loom tape and various cable ties replaced. Front and rear suspension dampers (new) springs (refurbished VR6 items) and suspension top mounts fitted. Front wishbone bushes replaced. Front ball joints replaced. Front tie-rod ends replaced. Oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and fuel filter replaced (genuine VW items) Solid PAS fluid return pipe replaced (2nd hand item original was rusted through and leaking) Extra self adhesive sound deading foam added whilst interior stripped out All body cavities filled with Wax-oil whilst interior stripped out Original parcel shelf sourced and fitted (no speaker holes) Both front to rear solid brake lines replaced Offside rear solid brake line to brake caliper replaced Brake, oil and engine coolant fluids replaced I have photographs of most of the work being carried out which I will be more than happy to provide to any prospective buyer. As can be seen from the photographs the car is in need of a re-spray, I was considering getting a vinyl wrap of the whole car in the same colour as I believe this will be around £1000 and should be more durable than a respray. I have a set of side strips that are currently not fitted to the car to complete it. It will need the aforementioned rear discs and pads replacing for an MOT along with wheel alignment due to all the suspension components being replaced. I have a pile of receipts for spares etc totalling just under £1400, all of which have been fitted to the car along with some items that I had spare from previous Corrado ownership. This will be a very nice factory standard Corrado with a bit more time and effort, getting very hard to find good examples now. Mileage is showing about 114k on the clocks. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76368[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76381[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76380[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76379[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76378[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76377[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76376[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76375[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76374[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76373[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76372[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76371[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76370[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76369[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76382[/ATTACH]

I stuck with green, its a brighter stronger green but the white LED is the wrong colour temperature. Works best on the clock and mileage display screen as those are very poorly lit, the 3 x lights the illuminate the fuel/temp, speed and rpm gauges don't benefit as much.

Got a project if you want it, I have done loads to it mechanically but it does need paint, some more info in here: blog bits It is in one piece but has no MOT and is in need of some new rear brake pads (I have discs and bearings) as they won't clean up for the MOT, it also needs the front wheel alignment doing after all the suspension bits were replaced. After a mere £750 for it.

Folks think it helps improve performance. What it actually does it make your car more likely to stall at junctions etc at the VR ECU map is designed for the air bleed that this provides when signalled to dump the carbon can contents. Not really an issue but make sure there is a bung in the air inlet side to prevent unfiltered air coming in.

Another vote for CTEK, nice product and has recovered some batteries that have seemed past it due to the recondition mode de-sulphating the plates. I did have a Halfords fully auto one before but that was very crude by comparison and despite having a trickle function it seemed to overcharge batteries.

Had one for 5 years in the shape of a nugget G60, loved it. Easy to spot in a car park, folks don't tend to shove doors etc into it as it stands out and people shift out of the way on motorways when you are behind them faster.

Sean-Jaymo, full marks for the correct answer.

Hallo, The digifant ECU is not the most refined and my G60 used to surge at certain points, the way the engine is designed to function is that when you come fully off the throttle at above 2500rpm (IIRC) it will cut all fuel to the engine, at around the 2250rpm mark it will start adding fuel again. If you have a lambda gauge you can see this in action as it will go fully lean when coming off the throttle and then start cycling showing lambda adaption at work. It could be that some of the inputs into the ECU are messing up the response or that the ECU chip MAP you have is not very well suited to the mods you are running - worth checking/replacing the hose from the throttle body to the ECU is ok and is exactly 1m in length - it also has to go onto the correct outlet on the throttle body although I can't remember which one that is! Try swapping them over and see if it improves. It could also be worn engine mounts (I would replace all 3 as a set).

Engine oil and brake/clutch fluid. With the brakes VW state the 500ml is required per corner for non-ABS cars and 600ml per corner for ABS cars to replace the brake fluid, so you should end up with at least 2 litres in used brake fluid. I would also bleed the clutch master and slave cylinders as they both use the same source for their oil.

They tend to come out as folks use that spot to jack the car up causing a touch a panel deformation and then the bungs fall out..

I believe you are referring to one of the body cavity holes, there should be a rubber bung in it and they get filled with wax at the factory.

Got a blackberry VR on the drive that needs some TLC... local too for you.

Provisionally sold awaiting payment

Both items provisionally sold awaiting payment.

Idlewillkill, yes to all VR 12v engines, will drop payment details when I get in tonight.

Hi Richie, will do and compare that with standard UK prices, assuming you ok with splitting the difference.

£409! Blimey glad I bought my pair for a mere £200 inc postage then!!

Hallo, Up for sale next is a couple of bits from Gruven parts: Crack pipe with chrome drain plug $87.99 new without shipping and import duty, yours for £55 posted (it would cost you £57 without shipping and import duty at todays exchange rate) Y pipe, $45.00 new without shipping and import duty, £25 posted. Or get both for £80 posted. No pictures as these are still in the bubble wrap packaging they arrived in but more info and pictures here: Crack Pipe Y Pipe

As I no longer have a G60 I don't need this distributor. It's a brand new, genuine VW item and comes complete with a new rotor arm and distributor cap - replace your oily old dizzy for a fraction of the cost that VW would charge you. £50 posted. [ATTACH=CONFIG]75359[/ATTACH]