Yandards

Pair of late style leather door handle inserts, bought these hoping I could get them to fit into an earlier car or fit them to the VR - neither of which is going to happen :) These are both in good condition and I am after back what I paid for them, so £40 posted. [ATTACH=CONFIG]75358[/ATTACH]

There was until I bought them. Probably be about the same as the set in NI that will be £35 postage on top and I currently don't even have a set fitted or any knackered ones to fit.

About 10mm wider at the lip of the arch, slight profile change at the front to accommodate revised headlight lense shape and later style hump bonnet.

To use that reader coil your car should be a chassis number 50-S-000719 onwards although if you have one fitted then it will work as the earlier reader coils were completely different.

If you have a German spoiler controller it will deploy at 120 km/h as this was the speed the spoiler was designed to function at, however there are various part number revisions over the years and the speed of deployment is not identified on later control units on ETKA. If you can find the part number on the controller then I am guessing it should have a 'D' on the back of it if you have an original German controller for a VR, if its a 'C' then its a UK/rest of the World one that has been modified.

Fuse box clips are not rare you just need to order 10 of each as that is the number they come in from the factory and the dealer won't have 8 of each sat in the shelf gathering dust. Er where to start but this is all brand new: Pair early headlights 3 sets (L&R) early headlight glass 3 sets of early fogs and indicators About 10 of those little black caps that sit in the screw heads on the door cards 3 x complete sets of the instruments cluster covers Brand new G60 BBS wheel Cassette holder 3 x early style centre console gauge holders Some of the 'lozenge' style 16v keys (uncut) Lots of the random bits of trim, ie the little rubber blocks that sit on the slam panel to hold the radiator grill in the correct place, the little black bits of plastic that sit under the scuttle clips etc etc

A day tops, especially on the VR as there is the loom plug in place. Its actually more hassle to swap the gearbox over hanging on the crane and I think its easier to remove the engine complete with gearbox.

Bartek tuning supply them either brand new made from billet alloy or one removed from a brand new charger, 800 Euros for the original one complete with seals and 700 Euros for the billet item with no seals or bearings.

It does provide around 5cm of compression on the rear end at 70 mph, I do have a chart at home which shows the downforce provided at a given road speed. More importantly it reduces rear end lift at speed which was the problem with the first TTs. As for a gimmick, sort of, if you look at mk 2 sciroccos then they had a large rear spoiler that was a pain when reversing, hence the active spoiler on the Corrado.

Not interchangeable between some model years as the connector plug is different. There is a range of spoiler deployment speeds depending on model and market, I have a German one sat on my desk for an early spec car that deploys at 72MPH (which is what the Corrado is designed for).

Easy to get hold of you just need to buy 20 from the dealers.

White spirit or diesel works well but you need a lot of clean rags to remove the gunk.

Cheap indeed although they are not quite as good as they once where - the newer ratchets are a bit less durable for some reason.

That'll be because the dealer gets supplied with a bag from VW as a minimum order, the fusebox clips work the same way, and most dealers don't want to sit on parts they are very unlikely to sell in any great number.

Was that the Poogate visit?

As others have said, time, effort, skill and right products make a huge difference. I spent over 40 hours going over my 16VG60 with an orbital machine polisher and the correct grade of polish and pad to get all the light swirls out that were marring the finish - then a couple of layers of Zymol wax on top to seal it up. Best bet is to have a read and understand the techniques for what works and if you want to go down the DIY option be prepared to spend out on the better products - the wrong cut of polish will make a mess of paint very quickly!

Got a blackberry sat on the drive doing nothing..

Humn, previous owner called Richie by any chance? Black heated leather interior with a nit of wear on the drivers upper bolster? Pair of Infinity speakers in the door cards? Previously on L2 SSX and J77 YAN number plate? Sounds familiar if it is...

Found a set of late leather door handle inserts whilst sorting out some bits and pieces, excellent condition with no scuffs or marks on the leather. You can still get one of these from classic parts (just the drivers side one) and it will set you back a whopping £176.46 As such I am after £50 for the pair delivered as I know these are like rocking horse poop.. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72884[/ATTACH]

Exactly, very good engine with the right amount of extra sensors on it to enable an ECU to delivery what the driver wants in the best possible way.

Which makes it not an ABF anymore and ignores the fact that you can get a lot more power and torque out of an ABF with a bit of ECU MAP tweaking/megasquirting than you can from a 9A due to better engine management.

Short answer, no. ABF is much more complex than a 9A in engine management terms, think it as being close to a VR in the way it works.

Hallo! Riley is quite correct when he says that the charger is only lubricated by the engine oil supply at the bearings. The sealing strips are, I believe, made up of a hard PTFE based item and as such are self lubricating. If you look at any of the VW engines they all return emissions to the inlet air supply for regulatory purposes. As for boost return deletion, aside from oil vapour you will also loose some engine efficiency as the recycling of boost air is removed from the system, the downside of boost return is that the tiny intercooler on the G60 can't cope with the recycled boost air at all well which robs power from the engine. The boost return system also does some other clever tricks, the ISV is 2 way on a G60 for starters; it provides both air into the inlet manifold from the boost return to clean up the idle behaviour and it also dumps manifold pressure into the boost return line from 5600 RPM to 6200 RPM (ECU RPM cut point) by 0.15 bar. Finally the ISV dumps inlet manifold pressure to boost return when engine knock is detected by a factor of 0.4 bar. So if you want to run boost return deletion you will need to a filter for the underside of the throttle body that goes to boost return to prevent dirt ingress into the engine, a filter on the ISV so that can continue to function as required and finally consider that without an ECU remap you will loose boost pressure into the engine gradually from 5600 RPM upwards. As for what would I do, I would be happy to run without lubricating the PTFE seals in the charger with some gunk every few miles, but I do feel the boost return system is useful in that it makes the engine more efficient - you just need a better chargecooling system - which was why I ran a PWR charge cooler setup and BBM solid boost hoses instead of the plastic crap. I don't have any hard figures and I was going to fit a CNC G60 cylinder head (which would have been very interesting) but on a standard charger & pulley, RSR outlet, BBM solid boost pipes, PWR chargecooler, knife edged throttle body and a DG custom ECU map my G60 was keeping up with Jim's VR through the gears so I suspect it was around the 190bhp mark with ease - all that and my max boost pressure never got above 0.7 bar. A smaller pulley does achieve all that but I could still fit a smaller pulley and port the charger for even more (If I still had a G60!).

I always use a 50/50 mix, premix it in a spare bottle, I also now always use a bottle of spring water etc and not tap as it will be softer and not full of limescale etc. It is worth using 50/50 as that is the top end that VAG recommend for UK use and keep in mind that G12 etc also act as a corrosion inhibiter and looses its strength over time.

Part number from VW is 192 959 101, it does seem they have got very expensive though £106 inc VAT. A one suitable for a mk 2 Golf from ebay will do, same motor just a 4 position switch...