_leon_

good ideas. very annoying having to do this now... is it worth just taking it back and asking them to clean it using caustic soda in the cleaning tank? not sure its fine to do that with aluminium

Ok no biggie. How do you like it after its been fitted? Yeah still got that one - sure you're welcome to it! We should meet up then and swap over the shelf/rocker!

Seems oil that was lining the inside chamber of the manifold is what's causing the powder and grit to stick. The shop suggested trying gunk to remove the oil. Failing that try caustic soda in their cleaning tank. Wish the holes had if just been covered ffs. Any other ideas?

Thanks dr_mat is that with the std front engine mount?

remember the pinion on the steering column is attached to the rack - so you'd be best to undo that first and move the boot out of the way. the tie rods will also be fastened - so best get the ball joints disconnected too - then youve just got the 4 bolts to remove to lift it off the subframe. good luck

can both early metal and later plastic rocker covers be used with a schrick manifold?

Recently had the manifold blasted and I gave it a quick rinse before fitting. On rinsing though i realised that the inside of the manifold is lined with powder/grit/etc - a lot of larger particles washed out slowly - but all the walls have a layer of fine powder which doesn't seem to wash out - unless disturbed with a cloth or brush. How can try and get the innards fully cleaned out? Positive this will harm the engine if fitted as is. Will be calling the company tomorrow but hoping someone else has some suggestions. cheers

thanks a lot for the help :)

I've done the searching - can't seem to find anything that helps further with my issue. The heater hasn't worked AT ALL for a while, so myself and a friend tried to diagnose the issue. First went through the fuses - which were all fine. Next tested the live and earth to the rotary heater controls - all good. Next - that 12v was getting to the resistor pack - again fine. Earthing seemed fine at the resistor pack too. Yet still the fan wasn't working. Changed the resistor pack for a new one - no result. New fan - no result. Which now begs the question - wtf is it? Can anyone give any suggestions/advice/help please?

Got a spare fuel filter here - 1H0 201 511 A - could anyone please spare a hand and tell me if this will be fine to fit to a VR as it was bought for my old G60 ages ago. Cheers

looks nice chris - just need to get rid of the rear wiper now! where did you get the aerial antenna from?

LOL that reads like a comedy gag. removing the alternator is so annoying...

Leon, I'll be travelling up on a Friday and after reading Corozins comments about the A7 thats the route i will be taking to get there ( thanks for the map too Corozin) :D Saturday will be the main/only day for experiencing the roads/scenery while I'm up there so I need to be able to get a route planned which will hopefully flow from one to the next. As for distance? I'm thinking of a round trip of 150 miles or so should be enough although its not going to be a rigid schedual quality over quantity is what I'm looking for. Sunday i'll be making my way home so over to Loch Ness FW then glen Coe. sounds like a great trip. as i said - 150miles will let you see plenty - just make a suitable loop from what you've got available (theres a limited number of options from pitlochry) - you'll enjoy whatever route you take - the scenery and roads up there are lovely. I did a 2k trip round scotland last summer - up to little remote beaches on the very north coast and out to some islands - it was superb. i can share the route/photos if anyone wants help with planning a trip.

and via loch lomond where there are some fantastic roads.

Just take the longest route up to pitlochry - you will enjoy whatever way you choose to be honest. If youre short on time then there aren't that many routes to take once in pitlochry - but you have a few loops on the map that you can do. Going through to Glencoe never fails to impress - steer clear of oban routes as theyre pretty dull - most of the roads west and north of fort william are simply fantastic. You can go over to gelncoe, past FW and back east to pitlochry. Or go the other direction and up through braemar and down loch ness. Both big drives but great fun. Avoid time on the A9 as it can be slow, busy and boring.

what sort of distance/time are you realistically prepared to spend? Some awesome roads near and far

iirc from previous searches, this also puts question on the crank sensor, relay 167 (fuel pump) and relay 109 (ecu)

how loud was the noise? a rattle too?

Just replaced my water pump yesterday, first it started as a worn bearing squeal that disappeared after 2-3 mins of driving. A week later it became a very high pitched squeal alongside a loud rattle. Once I get a few bolts from vag to put stuff back together I'm assuming it will be gone. Did you have any running issues? And if you're fine with basic mechanics, the pump is easy change, can walk you through if you need.

got to admit - i dont like the look of that rocco in the above pics at all. the rear end of them is horrible... your corrado looks much nicer and interesting.

goodness where did you disappear to?

if its just the multiplug it'll be less than 2 quid. guessing you just need some terminal ends for the loom

this is an excellent post. am i right in thinking that all the lines will need moved/replaced if i have the bay cleared for repainting?

think that works very well on that colour - but still of the opinion aqua blue looks best with the chrome badges...

you should do the handles too