_leon_

i think theres a how-to available for changing the gearbox oil :)

Jim its simple enough to change it and with a little effort you could do it yourself and save a few pennies. The tensioner is very easy to slide off using an oil filter wrench to compress it first. Just draw a diagram of the pulleys and the belt to make sure you're putting it back on correctly - its not timed so no worries there. 30 min job ;) As for price - I paid 34 quid for mine (about a month ago) from the dealers and about 5 quid for a new PAS belt. HTH

that makes me fuming hearing these kinds of stories. wtf is wrong with people? I think I agree with whats said about getting some spray and protecting the bodywork first. If its safe then at least you know the quality can be sorted at a later date. Good luck too

your problem sparked off my question thats been hangin around for a few weeks...!!!

I sent my charger away to GWerks and it came back looking like new :) during that time I was busy buying new pipes, bolts, belts etc, cleaning and replacing a few other bits and bobs since i had the access to other areas. have a good think, theres somethign there waiting for you lol

woah - didn;t see all the other messages - thanks again guys :notworthy: Yeah I replaced the pipes (airbox-charger, muffler-ic pipe). So maybe its the lube spray... I think my mind is at rest now :)

Thanks Henny. Yeah the boost return is still there. The amount is visible just looking into the pipes, but have read people referring to 'more than a teaspoon' - does this suggest if you can literally scoop it out? cant help being a bit anal about this!! Had rules out the charger and I've not long fitted a new K&N panel so...

yeah I don't think its worth considering myself. Use the time to do some cleaning or replace other parts - theres always something ;)

yup :) alternator at the top and the water pump is one of the bottom ones (pulleys) I believe. If I'm wrong, someone will soon point it out :)

theres definately people who have done this - iirc you need some new pipes and a new belt - but someone here will have a better idea. Its only worth doing if you plan to be without it for a while...

Can I ask whether the pipe between the airbox and charger and the one between the charger intercooler should have ANY oil in it?? I have had the charger rebuilt by G-Werks 2K ago so when I found some oil I was a tad concerned... Theres not very much, enough to make a cloth dirty but not anywhere near scooping levels. Just need to know whether theres somethign I need to look at or do

imagine if a family member secretly took your c,for the uk pimp my ride special. :lol: :shock: /\ | /\ lmao

as frightening as that thought is Neil - it would be hilarious!!!

welcome Andrew! good to see another raddo join :) noticed the side repeaters are different from C's here - is this an american thing?

lmao - made me laugh :) youre a wasted talent mate

i dont see it worth it - there are plenty available if you look for them. 3K should get you one around 120K

v nice... :)

how much are we talking about for basic standard fit speakers?

mocal do some good ones - a search will bring up endless results

I'll give you a guess... Leon ;)

wondered the same when i was ready to buy. got a g60 and love it to bits - never looked back. If you are prepared to do some of the easy work yourself then you can save a lot of money, vastly reducing the cost of ownership.

no worries :)

if you do a search to find out how to get the door cards off, thats a start. Next, the door pin is connected to a rod with a thread on the end (the end that the door pin screws onto). This rod goes straight down to the solenoid. Best to get the cards off first then take a look to see whats wrong. It'll be immediately obvious! HTH

I just didn't see the one behind the speaker grill no - thanks I'll look that one out. I assume the handle is quite easy to remove too? - I'll do a search for that :)

My passenger door cannot be locked by the key outside, though can be by the door locking pin inside. It also doesn't lock by the central locking from the alarm fob... After having the door card almost off (just doesn't seem to come off, I must be missing a screw somewhere) and taking a look at the solenoid, it seems to be ok and the vacuum is working as expected. So I think it must be the lock barrel seized? Can anyone tell me the easiest way to remove it - I think I'll try putting some lube on it overnight and try to get it working again if thats the cause :) Oh and as a side note, can someone please tell me how many screws need removed to get the door card fully off - the seals at the top are also trying to crack - do these just work their way out without being attached anywhere? Thanks for any help :)