coolrado

the reaction of the rednecks was quite believable, my brothers canadian friend went on a road trip through the US and had his car pelted with stones because he had one of those evolution fishes on the back bumper!!!!

only ever had 1 puncture and that was due to some little sh*t leaving nails in front of the tyres on all the cars down my road, found out who it was though as he told his friend he did it, unfortunately for him his friends father owned one of the cars he did it to, when he confronted the little sh*ts father about it he promised to pay for the tyres to be repaired (3 actually caused punctures), he actually sold the little sh*ts 2 week old mountain bike to pay for the tyres to be repaired :lol: he was amazingly well behaved after that. my tyre was on the verge of being changed anyway so i wasnt really bothered. has anyone ever had a lorry tyre blow out while driving along site it though? its like a bomb going off and actually makes your car move, its happened to me twice now strangely on the same stretch of the m5.

yeah i had thought about 2"all round or 2" on the back and 1.5" on the front but i cant seem to get a definate answer that they will fit with a good drop without arch work so i decided on 1.5" all round, i also dont really like the stretched look anyway.

But does anyone do them with a standard .5" dish? as the 1/2" versions like the originals require the rim to double back on itself to retain the bead on the rim it would be much harder and more expensive to produce them so second hand 1/2" rims would probably be your best bet. oh and i was quoted 570 euros including shipping to the uk for a set of 4 1.5" stainless rims from the guy on ebay.

depends what you are after, you can get ally and stainless ones from Peter Hofmann who sells on ebay as rth2004 or just ally ones from Image Wheels although they no longer list them on their site and im not sure they are still doing them or stainless from Justmatz but they are quite pricey the ebay guy is the cheapest by far and i will be ordering a set of stainless 2" rims from him in the next couple of weeks.

yeah it is the cables but the mk4 calipers have stronger return springs and seem to pull the cable free even if it is slightly frozen. the reason the mk4 caliper bleed screws sieze is due to the corrosion between steel and ally, so yes it is definately worth giving them a good coat with copperslip.

nope just the rears, use your original carriers and change the calipers, you will also need a set of adapter pipes to fit them. they also use the same pads and disks, they are just made out of alloy instead of steel and have a better more reliable handbrake mech.

good point mr cheese, mine havnt done it at all since i fitted the mk4 rear calipers, i also havnt had to adjust the hand brake either, the return spring is much stronger on them.

if it doesnt judder when you brake and there are no cracks in the disks it should be fine, even if the disks have gone blue they should be fine after a few stops, check your pads havnt started to seperate from the backing, although i only had that once with a set of dodgy green stuff pads when they overheated. to stop it happening again either park with the hand brake off in cold weather, or make sure the little rubber bellows on the end of the handbrake cables are intact and spray some good lube down the handbrake cable sleeves, not wd40 as it wont last, some of that 3in1 with ptfe oil from halfrauds should do the job nicely.

tell the potential buyer to get it checked himself, and if he finds anything dodgy in its history (which he wont) you will cover the cost of the check, cant say fairer than that.

The throttle pedal came off mine - I wasn't aware this was a common fault with them. You learn somthing new every day. appearently also happened to some mk1 roccos (same bulkhead isnt it?)

did you say DOH! in a homer style when you hit it?

also check the bulkhead where the pedals mount to it, the clutch pedal mounting has a habit of tearing out, there is a reinforcement plate availiable from vw to strenghen it though, two of my mates have cabbys one of which has had the bulkhead bodge welded and the other hasnt even cracked at all.

have a look in maplin they have some cheap suction mount camera brackets which should cope with a compact camera no problem, i wouldnt trust them on the outside of the car but they would be fine on the dash.

as far as i know the stuff used on the bottom of vw's is shultz or tetra shultz, they do one which stays sticky and cant be painted over and one that is like the original stuff which sets semi hard and can be painted over, most decent car parts places should stock it, it is very messy and its best applied with a shultz gun on a compressor, we had to use very large quantities of thinners to remove it from the under side of my friends 62 splitty and then used a very high temperature steam cleaner which got rid of most of it.

a friend of mine recently got clocked at 35 in a 30 by one of the north wales police "arrive alive" vans while driving a tesco delivery van, when he got the nip through the post he replied saying he wasnt driving and asked for photo proof of who was driving, he expected to get a reply saying they couldnt identify the driver but actually recieved a very clear photo of him driving the van with no seatbelt on and talking on his mobile :lol: fortunately for him they just gave him the fixed penalty for speeding.

after a quick search it seems to be T10029 but the vw dealer may be reluctant to sell you one.

this happened to a friend of mines charged VR, apparently it was caused by a really thin strip of the plastic from the tensioner getting sucked up and caught in the oil pump gears which jammed them solid and snapped the shaft.

have you checked the bypass valves for the matrix? my system was still pressurising after i changed the headgasket and it turned out to be the matrix bypass valve, if the small pipe between the valves is hot but the pipes going in and out of the matrix are cooler than the rest of the system the valves are probably knackered.

SMC car audio in shrewsbury by any chance?

only problem is most of them are so inter-bred it will be a challenge to find which one of them the dna is from :lol:

it really is worth taking a test drive in one that has been well looked after though, the first one i looked at buying felt like a death trap and im sure the charger had been bypassed it was that slow, it almost put me off, but when i test drove the second one, i was hooked after about 10 seconds especially as when i pulled out of the fourcourt of the garage i nearly went through the wall over the road :lol: as i wasnt expecting it to pull that hard as the previous one i had driven was so sluggish.

most likely due to some plum of an alarm fitter wiring all the door pins and boot pin sensor wires together without using a diode.

i forgot to say my previous cars had been: 1971 bond bug 1986 mk2 astra 1.2 merit 1989 mr2 mk1 so not really surprising the G60 has been the most reliable car i have had :lol:

you simply cant get true chrome paint it just looks like dull aluminium usually, which i personally think looks better than chrome, i allways think that chrome plated plastic looks like the lid from a bottle of cheap perfume :lol: or the trim from a rover 75, :pukeright: and who the hell would want anything to look like its from a rover 75.