Tekara

The over read between the gauge and ecu seems rather high. My reading are quite different upto 90'c then they balance out, with the gauge reading between 2-5'c difference.

I had the same sound about year ago, slight whistle that raised in pitch with engine revs could only hear it when outside the car. Mine turned out to be a leaky ISV damper

If your going to embark on the doing chains, clutch etc then its not a great deal more work to re-con the head. As you've pointed out the usual valve seals begin to go, but dont overlook possible HG failure. I replaced the chains and clutch, then 10k later the HG went and the value seals were still good. Do it all then you know you can drive the car as you like :D As for what type of Head Gasket to get, just go for the standard and save on cost, that is unless you plan to go FI at later date. Thats the advice Vince gave me when i did mine.

Finally Success :cheers: , after the umpteenth attempt to release the non-return valve in the piston its finally given in and retracted all the way in the bolt.

Thanks for the posts Crasher does it have any info in the Bentley? Ive tried creating a wire as in the image, but i dont get any different results. Lizard Racing when you say it should be fully expended, do you know if there should be some movement to the bolt, or should it be solid.

I know, Bentley was useless today. Starting to wish id not bothered removing it now.

Hi All Being having some issues with rattles on cold starts, it was mentioned to me that the tensioner bolt could be faulty. So with taking that advice I took the bolt out of the car and inspected the seals, all looks fine. My problem now is the reinstallation, I'm not sure on how to put it back together, i've read posts mentioning bleeding while submerged in oil, but the end result is totally different to how it was when removed. When it was removed the piston was near as bottomed out with a slight bit of oil in the bolt. Now that its been bleed, or at least attempted, the piston sticks out about a 1-1.5cm further than it did when I removed it, but with no movement. Can someone confirm what the procedure is for bleeding, and how the bolt should be. BTW this is a standard Corrado bolt, not the MK4 one if that makes a difference. Cheers

You can expand your search to Passat B5's, i fitted brakes i got off a 99 Passat. Calipers are slightly different to the Golf's in that the brake hose fitment is different, Golf uses Banjo fitment while the Passats use the standard screw pipes as used on Rado VR's. I recall seeing in ETKA that you can buy all the seals, so could be refurbed fairly cheaply.

Easiest thing is to get it scanned with VAGCOM, should point to the offending faulty item. Sadly not a great deal you can do without to trace the issue.

I believe Stealth's standard rebuild is around the £550 area, that doesn't include new cogs though. Seems a bit odd you've got issues with 5th, usually its 2nd which funnily enough it what's tiring on my box.

:shock: £20 I need to visit your local dealer, id be lucky if anyone acknowledged my existence for less that £60 worth of work at my stealership.

I've already switched to Pi springs after talking with several forum members, they'd said that the Pi's gave noticeably smoother ride to that of the H&R's. That sounded good to me having to deal poor roads on a daily basis, i took a chance and chucked JOM caps on to aid with the lowering hoping they wouldn't ruin the ride as i found they did with the H&R's. Im pretty pleased with the end result so far, car is noticeably lower and the arch gap has closed too which was my main aim. The ride is about on par with the H&R's albeit that it handles the bigger bumps and dips in a more comfortable manner. Verdict is still out on the hooning factor around the country roads, still letting them settle in and ive yet to play around with the damping.

Ive been running H&R springs for 18months. They give a very positive ride and are reasuraingly stable when having fun, although can be a little harsh on poor country roads. I've now switched springs as the H&R's werent low enoungh for my taste but i couldnt afford coilies. Bit of a shamles plug but the springs are now in the For Sale section :) .

Nice work, glad to see someone else embarking on this conversion, keep us posted on your progress. I say that as I'm seriously considering doing this as well, but still a little skeptical if I could pull it off.

Hi All I'm looking to buy a Mocal but undecided if I should attempt to fit it myself. In theory it seems a relatively straight forward job, albeit for all the other parts that are in the way. For those who have fitted them could you give me instructions, and pointers to watch out for like what parts need to be removed. Thanks in advance.

I'll get a price off my step-dad as he runs a gundrilling and honing business. Do you have the 2.9 pistons, as they like to match a bore to a piston.

The upper rubber parts are 13 and 14, i replaced these on mine when fitting new shocks. As mentioned will be worth getting new bumpstops too if these havent been done in a while.

Have you tried tapping it when the engine is warm? Mine has recently started sticking, havent investigated any fixes yet.

Another 205 user on 16x7.5's, only a slight stretch which means you loose a little of the tires rim protection.

Had a quick look in ETKA. In the cluster diagram they are present, but attached to each individual gauge. No separate part numbers listed for the needles.

1: Same with all Corrado's 2: Get it scanned for faults, i had a similar issue turned out to be the peddle sensor which lives just under the master cylinder

If needed ive got Vagcom, im near Andover so not too far away.

Could anyone tell me the part numbers for the head -> rocker studs and the associated nuts. Would i be correct in thinking 8 are required? Thanks in advance

There are two kits listed for sound proofing on different chassis numbers. 535 898 123 (>> 50-M-011 396*) 535 898 123A (50-M-011 397>>*) Price is approx £85 Plastic triangle 535 853 221 Left side 535 853 222 Right side Price is approx £8

Rear handle's and mech's are whats needed. Im sure if you visit your local breakers you'll find a Passat, always seem to have 2-3 in mine.