Kevin Bacon

Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 (now called Fuchs Titan S)

Same old same old. Authorities and the law working against the innocent. I bet if someone was parked across your drive and you cut their handbrake to move it, the police and compensation lawyer scum would come down on you like a tonne of bricks. Glad you're reunited with the purple terror though. Sing Jason & Kylie's "Now we're back together....." to yourself :D

It was an Audio one mate. In hindsight I wasn't a fan of that stuff. If I did it again I'd use OEM cables, fuses and terminals etc. I never blew a 125A fuse, so that ought to be enough. I was just concerned that using a really high rating fuse wouldn't blow fast enough in the event of a short. Yeah just run a little tube out to atmosphere and the air flow under the car will draw any fumes away.

Rubber does degrade with age and constant heat cycling. Most people wait until the rubber is visibly split, but I do mine if they're just old. Fresh ones feel a lot better than 10 year old, non split originals. Anyway, I can't see how play in a diff can cause a loose wandering feel to the front end when cruising? Maybe under acceleration a worn diff might cause some strange behaviour. By play does he mean bearing play or worn teeth?

MK5 R32s also have rear mounted batteries for cable, battery box, terminals and fuse options. Starter motor terminal is a good shout for jump starting, but not easy to get to. Again, BMW or VW do jump start terminals that can be bolted to the chassis strut or somewhere else convenient. Remember to use a very sturdy grommet or a compression gland where the wire passes through the bulkhead, and it's probably safer to fuse both ends of it as well, and needs to be a rating that won't blow when the starter motor draws current. Think I used a 125A fuse either side of the bulkhead.

That's gotta be the oldest thread exhumation ever! Probably a moot point now anyway as discs come ready painted these days.

Never heard of a VR6 oil pump going. Yeah the only difference between the 2.8 and 2.9 is the intake and throttle pretty much. The 2.9 has a higher rev limit as well. I've read about UK 2.8 and 2.9 cams being different but I've never seen anything conclusive on that.

Wow, a new classified system and a speed improvement, you do spoil us sir :D

Yeah I was just reinforcing Baz's point :D i.e. Don't bite the hand that feeds you, otherwise instead you'll have to use the hand that helps itself to your wallet when you list a part, again when you sell a part, and yet again when you use it's payment system! The reason for the move to Panjo was to ease the burden and help settle disputes if PayPal is used etc, plus PhP being clunky with attachments Andi said. Being a self managed site, you guys can get on with it and we wouldn't have get drawn into tidying up people's for sale adverts that turn into bickering about pricing etc etc. We are just trying to help you in the long run, but you have to be willing to embrace change ;)

Yep. I think VW just wanted Corrado owners to think they were getting more than Golf VR6 owners, but in the real world the 2.9 only has a slight advantage from 4000rpm upwards over a 2.8. Many people feel the 2.8 (especially in OBD2 guise) drives better than the 2.9, with noticeably better pick up low down. 2.8s are also less prone to premature bore wear than the 2.9.

Agreed, looks really good!

Quality of construction, how long they last, how well they fit into the plastics, how well the lengths have been, how nicely the ends "clink" onto the plugs etc etc. I liked how VW bonded the wire into the ends so that it didn't pull out, like a set of GSF leads did to me once.

It will indeed. Best way to run any 24V imo.

Indeed! I tried all of the available leads when I had my VR6 and the VW ones were just leagues ahead. Never mind!

United Motorsport are bloody useless at communication. You could get a quick reply, a reply 2 weeks later, or no reply at all. It's no way to run a business. Best way to contact Matt I would say is send him a PM from the VR6OC. He seems to spend a lot of his time on there I've noticed. The SAI function itself can be mapped out and it's in several maps, but as I keep saying, leave the SAI relay in place or the ECU won't give you long term adaptations. It needs to 'see' the relay, whether the SAI software engages or not.

The best ones by far were the VW ones, but everyone moaned about the price of them, bought cheap shyte ones instead and then demand fell off completely, so VW stopped them. Can't say I blame them.

It's almost worth waiting a few days to see what scum turns up at your door. Then tell him the phone is at the police station and he's welcome to go and collect it.

It's just a visual illusion. You may think the driver's wheels is perfectly in line with the arch but it obvioiusly isn't otherwise the passenger wheel wouldn't be pointing to the left and the car would pull violently. And body panels are the WORST alignment references known to man. Corrados are particularly bad for it. I've seen loads with wheels tucked in more than the other side and other weird visual oddities. So long as it drives straight, ignore it. Hand made shyte remember!

Bearings can still be noisy with the correct play.

Why the aversion of the 2.8? Everyone knows the extra capacity of the 2.9 makes bugger all difference. If it's for originality, the 2.9 is no longer 2861cc after a rebuild anyway. Personally I think that 2.8 block is perfect for keeping an old VR6 on the road.

If only there was a website where you could (for a small fee) upload pictures of any size, create an advert to a wider audience, have a fixed price or regular auction, has a built-in payment system etc, no, wait.....

If you take it to Stealth, just make sure you give them loads of notice and be prepared to leave it there for a while as they're very busy. Lots of VR6 rebuilds!

Only if you're running into misfire problems from excessive boost!

Yep as Fanjita said regarding the MK5 fuel filter. I mounted mine at the back, but nothing wrong with mounting it at the front either. Easier to revert back to standard. For the N80, personally I would leave it connected but just tucked out of the way somewhere. These things can be coded out to prevent - N80 EVAP "incorrect flow" - errors, but the ECU still needs to 'see' it, otherwise you won't get long term trims. Same applies to the SAI pump relay. If you can find resistors that trick the ECU, even better, but I'm not sure they work on PWM controllers like the N80. Fine for relays & airbags etc with a fixed load though.

The tip material is irrelevant really. Iridum will work, platinum will work, cheap copper will work. The important thing for boost is the heat range and the gap. Those R5671-A NGK V Powers ran my VRT really well indeed, but they're hard to find in the UK. Those Audi plugs work really as well and more readily available. They're the ones I'd use personally. Good hot and cold starting, good life span and the right gap preset.