fla

Tried twisting it both ways away from the little tage (thanks RPmayne) but i just feel its going to break if I twist any more. Just to check - is it the section to the right of the bracket that opens into two parts or does it separate AT the mounting bracket?

Some of the hoses feeding the FPR have some fabric braid on them whilst some of the others are looking a bit tired - that may also be due to the varnish-type material on them. I want to replace these but what should be used in place? Also, for some of the other hoses with the yellow varnish, i want ot remove the varnish without damaging the hose - how best to do this? I thought that this was just the wax that is all over the car and in the engine bay, but this is harder and doesnt come off, rather it sort of chips off. The yellow looks just terrible. There is also a fair amount on the black plastic which also doesnt want to come off and I am loath to use a wire brush on it as it will look even worse. Gunk has had no effect.

Tried to open the large connector in the engine bay to check and clean the contacts but just couldnt work out how to get it apart. I was a bit wary about using too much force just in case it broke - any ideas? TIA

Yep, thats the puppy. As per the link Tekara added it seems that JediKnight had some luck just glueing back together. I'll try both options - replacing with some tubing and glueing the beast and relacing. Dennis, have you had any issues since using it without the valve with just the tubing?

OK thanks for that Dennis. Cant quite tell from the picture as it doesnt zoom, but I'll have a bash at it tomorrow. Any particular hose required or will a standard PVC be ok? What pressure does this valve actually control?

Just broke the pressure regulating valve today whilst I removed the flexibe bend from the air filter to access the TB. ETKA says this has been superceded by "intake hose p/n 3A0 129 615". What sould I replace it with? Also, the hose to the valve vent (small 3mm pipe) is quite a loose fit - is this normal? Oh, the p/n for th evalve is 021 129 101A. Thanks chaps.

This might be better protected with a strip of rubber - something like a bike inner tube opened to form a flat thin rubber sheet.

JimsG60 is right - toothbrush and some liquid soap is best, small amount of elbow grease and voila all clean.

Should actually read between 13 and 90 degrees. Kevhaywire is really your man here as he can guide you in its setup

How much does he charge for a rebuild?

This may be absolute sacrilege but with all the problems re cutting out and other electrical gremlins, has anyone thought of, or indeed already done this? If so, what was it swopped with? Mines only done 50k and i also have electrical issues which I am slowly working though with a lot of help from the usual suspects on the forum. But as my C is something I would want to keep longer term (unless someone offers me £7k for it!), I'm just thinking about tying this in with the planned manual conversion this summer. Obviously I wouldnt want the big budget jobs of Biggerbigben and maybe PhatVR6, more a normal swop. You'd of course lose that superb engine sound though and oodles of torque.

Yep me too, had my mums car (c needs some work) and she's quite car proud so I hope there are no major scratches on it....

Mine - well Frontline Assembly are my fave band for about 15 years hence FLA. Was going to have DM from Depeche Mode but decided on FLA some years back. Not too complex i guess....

Wil have a go, cheers for that Kev. Anything else I should have a look at for this issue?

Thats one bad looking C. Cant wait to see the finished article. Its cars like yours that give inspiration to many, especially when you hit another problem and think F--k it, its going.

Just make sure you've got your right foot glued to the boards.

Oh BTW, is there any way of checking the TPS separately?

amend that to COULDNT. Cut out again as I came up to a junction, but hopefully, that will be because I havent yet cleaned the TB. If after cleaning that out I still have the same prob what else is worth checking?

Welcome mate and I'm sure you're gonna enjoy your C. BTW, Silver is pretty rare - have a look at OSVs avatar to see what a superb silver Corrado can look like.

Thanks for the tips chaps. Will try this soon. In the meantime, how do you spray the indicators but leave stripes so they shine orange (like Moonlight VR and OSV) - after rubbing the lens down, firstly what would you use for strips and second how do you ensure that they are absolutely straight?

I did the same thing on mine - drivers door had sagged. What I did was to loosen the upper bolt and for the gap between the hinge and frame bracket I cut n-shaped shims and slid them in. Just meant I didnt take the door off completely and its something you can do yourself quite easily. HTH

I've want to remove the dark blue tint from my rear lights to return them back to red (have been sprayed blue), with smoked indicators. Is this feasible to do or will this just ruin them? If it is possible, can anyone let me have a how-to? Failing that, I'll tint my regular lights.

OK so what would be a reasonable budget to get a conversion done under the two scenarios: 1. I provide the gearbox and ancillaries 2. I hand the car over and get them to supply and install everything In both instances I should be able to recover a bit by selling all the auto stuff. TIA H

Looks great - any more idea on specs?

He does have a fantastic interior on his motor samm_cvr6. I was also planning a tt dash conversion on mine at some time in the future. But again its down to time and funds. What would be the value of my motor chaps as that would give me an idea of what to budget for.