Joe M

I'll say throttle cable too, I had this to an extent when I bought my vr6, new throttle cable cured it.

Fair enough, things are always different in reality than on paper anyway. Once it got to 3500 did u pull away pretty quickly or was it just a bit quicker?

I wouldnt say that, I reckon it just feels that way because the performance at high revs is a bigger improvement than at low revs. Ive compared my rr plot with yours and theres a definate increase through the whole rev range. (Before schrick)

Did you bleed the master cylinder as well? I found I had to rebleed the master after a few days and as the pads bedded in my brakes improved enormously.

Very nice cars them, I want one. 8) Also known as the "Breadvan" on the BMW forums. :lol:

Cool, all sounds good. Did you get any noise or anything from the rubbing on the chassis rails? Tbh, it probably will be a bit much forsome of the roads about here, but my vr's not exactly an everyday car so should be ok. The track performance is what I want to improve, done my first track day this year and im now up to 3, next year I should hopefully be in double figures.

Oulton Park was just the first track that came into my head. Any up this way will do. :wink: Just looked up Bruntingthorpe, not as far as I thought actually, 313miles. :cry: I expected over 400. Is it worth breaking the trackday talk into a seperate thread away from the suspension?

N3*3 P*P on a ramp in VW Crow Road today?

Yeah, I thought it would have been fine as well, and it was with just the ignition on. It was only when I started it the gauge went to full and then dropped immediately to zero which is why I was thinking blown fuse.

Bargain, I would have had it as well. I thought you had it fitted though and were happy with it?

Ok, heres the story. About a month ago I had to change my fuel pump, I got a hold of a g60 pump temporarily and it worked fine but the sender wires were cut so I fitted the pump without the sender. the two extra wires for the sender I didnt want to leave hanging in the tank seperate so I joined the 2 of them together thinking it will either show a full or empty tank. Ignition on, everything fine, tank shows full. I started the car and the gauge dropped to empty and stayed there since. I assumed the wires had come detached due to vibrations or the fuel swirling round but it seems I was wrong. Ive now fitted a new fuel pump and my old sender unit that I know is good but the tanks still reading empty. So Is there a fuse for the fuel gauge on its own, cause if there is I cant find it and evertything else is working ok. Or Have I damaged the actual gauge and may need to replace the clocks?

Heres a good link that tells you more about what the uprated arb's will do. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1108/shine.html Ive got my front Nuespeed 25mm going on Monday. Rear will have to wait for a bit though till I get some cash together again. (Reason im getting the front one first is I need a wheel alignement and dont want to have to get another a few months down the line.)

You should make it at a track a bit further north so its accesible for the whole forum. Oulton park or somewhere. :wink:

The one above was probably white when it was new, 8 years in a tank its likely the petrols stained it.

I might be interested in a set, so what if the car might fail an mot with them, its easy enough to put the normal bulbs back in for a day. Now, to go for H3's for main beam or H4's for dipped headlights. :? Or both. 8)

The aerial itself will be fine, its the bit on the roof of the car it screws into that will be knackered. It houses some sort of amplifier and this degrades over time.

Have a look at this thread and see if its the same bit thats split: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3156

Looking 8) You taking it to the ssr trackday November? I might pop along for that one. :twisted:

Jeez, thats loud. :twisted: works fine. 8)

Try putting it in a compressed folder with winzip or winrar then see if it will post.

Nice one, I still cant decide whether to go for the 268's or hold out for a charger. Any plans on getting it on the rollers soon Kev? I wouldnt mind seeing the graph.

Newer design with variable cam timing and variable inlet manifold as standard. probably a lot more torque down low than a standard vr6 and a bit more top end. Never drove one so not sure though.

Looks like a 24v vr6 to me.

I take it it wasnt a straight swap then or the wiring would have been easy, 24v?

Ive had my vr for about 10'000 miles and am about to go onto my 4th set of tyres. :twisted: (Alignements fine) Toyos T1-S were set number 2 and were excellent if a bit soft. I could really feel them squirming under heavy braking. Next set that im about to change are Fulda Extremos and again, excellent tyre to drive with, very like the Toyos but a bit firmer. The wear on them is worse though, when pushed hard they seem to tear themselves apart. Ill be going for T1-R's next as ive read they are very likle the T1-S but with a stiffer sidewall and dont wear as quick. 8)