Toad

I just spotted that too. Have a good one Fay!

Cool Good luck with it... and remember to pay attention to which way round the inner cv fits on the shaft... one edge has a gasket, the other doesn't. If your bottom ball joint won't split, then remove the three bolts and slide the ball joint out the wishbone. you will need to get the car re-tracked if you use this method though.

Cheers! The calipers were only 2 years old when I bought them and just needed wire brushing to clean them up. although a wire wheel would have done a far better job. I did my best cleaning the carriers up too, but they really needed a wire wheel on them. Nevermind, maybe next time. At least it shouldn't corrode any more now...

You should be able to get all the bearings and seals from a good bearing supplier such as Blue Diamond in Chandlers Ford, near Southampton, for less than £250 I would guess.

It's not easy. The circlip is a right pain in the arse... It's very stiff to open up. The boot is really difficult to get over the shaft too. You should probably adhere to some torque settings but I don't know what they are. I did my bolts up tight. Not so tight you strip threads or can't undo them though. You should check them all after a few miles just in case.

It can be done under the car, but I could imagine it would be a right pain in the arse. To do it still attached to the car I would (off the top of my head) Jack the car up securing it properly, take the wheel off. get a 8mm(I think) spline socket (like a multisplined allen key) and use it to undo the 6 bolts on the driveshaft. It would be best to have an assitant in the car to put the car in and out of gear for you as you try to undo the bolts. When they are all loose, undo the bottom ball joint and separate it from the hub, this should give you enough play to pull the inner cv away from the gearbox and drop it down to start the fun. Use a set of circlip pliers to remove the circlip from the end of the shaft. The CV joint should slide off. remove this and the shaped washer behind it, pull the cv boot off and clean the shaft. Now weasel the new boot onto the driveshaft, fit the new shaped washer( the right way round, and fit the new cv. Heres's the tricky bit. Get your new circlip up onto the driveshaft. at this point it will not fit in the groove. You will need a socket that fits snugly over the driveshaft, put this over the end and wack it squarely with a hammer. This will compress the shaped washer behind the cv joint and force the circlip into the groove... You might want to put the bottom ball joint in to give you something solid to hit with the hammer. Make sure that the circlip is correctly seated, and there is no play at the cv joint end... then grease it all up. and re attach it... Good luck PM me if you want pictures.

Get any pictures??? I love driving through fords. Appropriately sized ones however.

ROFL....

I believe he's reffering to the coil to provide the spark, which you may have if you've got a distributor, or the coilpack could be knackered if you have a later engine. Try testing for a spark, if you have a spark, try testing for fuel, there can't be much else to try.

Right... I'm off the crack now, so I will begin by showing off my new brakeage.. Some time back I bought a set of 280mm brakes from a vr and finally got round to fitting them along with new goodridge hoses.... Before fitting them, well last night, I repainted them silver using hammerite smooth something. I wish I'd done it a few days back as they were still a bit tacky, and grubby fingerprints and brake fluid soon marked them... oh well... they shouldn't be too bad to re do in the future now. I intend to do a wiki article on this process, which will clearly encompass pad and disk changing... I'll get some better ones up once it's clean.

Can you post a picture up? I don't quite understand what you mean.... It should be jsut the three allen bolts out of the centre of the pulley... You might need a allen key socket on an extension to reach them , but I'm sure I did mine with a stndard allen key... It helps to loosen them when the pump is on the car and the belts are all tight, to stop the pump from turning. You might need to encourage the pulley off with a hammer, and a bit of wood.

A new more modern red paint shouldn't suffer from the UV degradation that the old paints did. It was all down to the titanium dioxide in the paint reacting with UV light apparently.

But isn't 350 squid for an exchange head, or am I reading that completely wrong? It's £350 surcharge for the head and £750-£800 to have the work done on it. SO if you've not got a spare head you pay £1100, and get your £350 back when you return the head.... I think. Yandards That's a very good point. You know you'll be seeing even flow rates and compression accross the cylinders on one of these heads. Would be interesting to see the difference on a standard car. And I'd imagine the gains would be just as good for a forced induction 16v.

Hary(arse)sites he's talking about you! :lol: Haha! :lol: yeah but my car still has loads of swirls, i just lessened them if thats a word! :lol: And how do you know my arse is hairy :shock: :lol: Toad..... the forum gimp! ;) What??? I was asleep in my box.... What do you want master?

For some reason I thought the topic of conversation had moved toward standard calipers... Think it's just being stuck in an office by myself. I think they do come with the banjos and the washers. But I know there has been some sort of discussion about the thread type and depth.

Standard corrado brake fittings don't have banjos, they are screw in pipes.

I remember that coming up in the past... I think it'd be well worth exploring. Cheers for the reminder Kev.

I agree. I'd love a flowed head to make the most of a 9A bottom end that I'm planning to fit, but £800 is a bridge waaaaay too far sadly.

vwdeviant, NO NEED!!! :pukeright:

I've not had a 2l but I believe that they are similar to the 1.8 in terms of engine lifespans... My 1.8 was very well looked after with only mobil 1 used in the car until I bought it, and has had synta gold since. I had the head rebuilt at 150k ish and have had new injectors, new rad, and oil cooler. The car still runs pretty well, and showed 144hp and 135lb/ft of torque when it was on 180k miles just before christmas. Which are both above the quoted figures for a new car. The only component letting the side down is the worn-out gearbox which doesn't engage gears very easily, and crunches a little. Hope that helps

Unlucky mate... What the hell was the Almera trying to do?? I might be able to supply the rear end of a corrado if you so wish ;)

It's 2 different birds isn't it?

Oh dear andy... that's a bit of a bugger. Well, I suppose the rear brakes were fairly expected, Don't understand the issue with the front caliper binding though, but I suppose that could be related to your brakes not being too efficient when you brought it round. Do you want me to get that headlamp off for you? I'm in chichester for most of the weekend at a wedding, but I'll weasel it off on sunday if you like?

lol, wondered if anyone would be brave enough to attempt a veiled compliment! She's not too bad really. Everyone needs love after all, besides, I'm fat and sweaty, I can't look too high. Dave, do you want to do a deal, if you get it first you'll let me borrow it, and if I get it first, I'll pass it on to you??? :wink:

Which fuse is it? It could be anything with out any further information.