Toad

Try taking it off, cleaning it, and sealing the cracks with JB weld or something similar. Think people have tried the MSD units, but they didn't take the heat from the VRs head very well.

Take it off and shake it. If it rattles it's a bit broken, but repairable. :tongue:

It's a nice quick job, and makes it feel so mich nicer. Well worth faffing around with!

No, I believe the after run fan is picked up off another sensor. Either Yellow, or Black.

I can't find them. I have an address and name, but can't find them in the phone book. Would love to know why the engine was swapped, and what they replaced it with.

I'd like to speak to the one previous owner of my VR to find out what the hell he did to it, and why he bought it new and ran it into the ground! :lol:

If that was the first movement this year - it will have been painful! :shock: HNY :wave: Nah, I did get it to roll last weekend. The pads were well and truly rusted on. Needed a lot of revs, and abuse of the clutch!

He was probably a cleaner.

Fitted new plastics to the seat runners on the drivers seat. No more wobbling around. :) Then drove it. Also started and moved the 16v.

Exactly. I don't think they are. Otherwise you'd end up with patches of ice on a road, and they would be buggered if they came across a line of traffic. You need the spinner plate up fairly high to ensure that the salt is thrown to the far side of the opposite carriageway, and you get an even covering across the road. There isn't another way of doing it I'm afraid. Realistically, how can they change it? You have a small window of opportunity to spread salt. It needs to be on the road before the frost, or snow is due, but, not on the road for too long so that passing cars grind it down into nothing and dissipate it. By switching off the gritter, or by stopping when meeting cars you'd be slowing the process down, you'd either have to start earlier and risk losing the salt, or start later and risk ice forming on the untreated road before you got to them. You've hit the nail on the head. You do pay for it. if you want them to work differently, run more lorries at different times, cover different roads, buy more equipment, are you willing to pay for it? People complain about levels of tax as it is. Sorry Jake, but it's the risk you run driving in the winter.

one word back at ya. freak Yeah. :)

One word. Fugly.

There's an Air Ratchet set about 6 miles away, but I am very lazy.

Do you mean you hit Auto Scan? I never bother, just go into engine, and fault codes and it's fine on a non gen cable.

I think I'm paying close to a grand for the 16v and the VR. Gone up about £200 in a year.

[youtube:3rnypkx4]Pib8eYDSFEI[/youtube:3rnypkx4] [youtube:3rnypkx4]brzT_vp27SI[/youtube:3rnypkx4] [youtube:3rnypkx4]1e0u11rgd9Q[/youtube:3rnypkx4] [youtube:3rnypkx4]4GJ_vbiqSIw[/youtube:3rnypkx4]

Sounds worse than tappets. What else is it doing? What's the oil pressure like? What has it had done to it?

What tappets are fitted?

You need to swap the resistor pack from the old motor onto the new one. It's attached to the metal plate on the bottom of the motor, and the 2 spades connect to it.

Yeah, as soon as it starts to crank it develops pressure.

Sounds like you've been busy! Looking forward to some more photos!

I've had an issue with my KR before, the oil pump was knackered and the pressure was too high, jacking all the tappets open and leaving no compression. Check the oil pressure before taking the head off.

Been getting into my D&B, Dubstep and Grime over the weekend. [youtube:u6otzckr]QzvGKas5RsU[/youtube:u6otzckr] [youtube:u6otzckr]fYjsq6IkMpc[/youtube:u6otzckr] [youtube:u6otzckr]2HrpzBltX5c[/youtube:u6otzckr] [youtube:u6otzckr]BkCNjnm1Ug0[/youtube:u6otzckr]

I wanted to try Mintex 1144s but they are unavailable in that pattern, so currently rocking some mk4 4Motion VW pad, which seems very good.

See what turns up, and then what gets voted in. :)