Toad

OBD1 and 2 refer to the engine management. OBD 2 is more advanced, and has better control over the engine. It uses a stepper motor on the throttle body to control the idle rather than a ISV. Otherwise it's quite similar to a late OBD1 VR6. To convert a car you need the inlet manifold, throttle body, MAF, coilpack (if you have a distributor based engine) wiring loom, and ECU. There are a few threads on the subject of converting a car if you have search.

Looks good. Quite interested by the twin timing belts on the charger.

Needle on in the wrong place I guess???

Sorry about hanging up. Was trying to get out of the way of a police car in the middle of a traffic jam, and now I can't phone international numbers. :( I'd try a thread cleaning tool, like the set I have from Halfords. But no idea where you'd get one in Amsterdam. I'd be very careful though. How much has he filled the hole in?

GWerks are selling a gruvenparts lookalike for a good price I think.

I don't think the lambda cycling is anything to worry about, AFAIK it's what they do. Dunno about the noise though.

Tilt the sunroof, slide the panel forward, pop the flap up slide it back a little then push forward so it clips into the mech again, the reverse of how you removed it. :)

I need to pay off the work I've already done on the car so far! Lol. TBH I was a little unsure as to how they could be *that* much better, but I think they really are. Fay's car handled absolutely lovely.

I had a go in Fay's car today. At first I was a little bit worried that they would be too hard. They felt harder than my Koni/Pi setup, but on the move they are really supple, the damping is spot on, and I was attacking corners even faster than I would have in my own car. I think I might be buying some at some point. :)

Thanks for the drive today. Must say it is awesome. Absolutely blown away by the V1s and the rear ARB. I thought my car was pretty nice, but it really put it in perspective.

Does it drive very differently to Darth? How is the Bedford Rascal?

Get an air hacksaw and cut the regulator in half. Loads easier.

Look up through the hole the motor fits into. 1 cable runs across the front, and 1 across the back of the hole.

Quite possibly. My garage has crap lighting, and the colours may have faded a bit.

I've circled the bits that are no longer aligned.

From the rear of the car going forwards Brown/White, Black/Blue, Red/Blue, Red

I've got one on mine. you're welcome to pop up to Winchester and poke about it if you want, or I can pootle out to the garage in a bit and get the colours for you.

Do you want me to pop over and give you a hand at some point?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85001&hilit=maf+wiring+colours

Yeah. Slide the lining back and it unhooks from the mech, lower the "flap" down and slide it all forward, so the flap drops down flat, then push it back into the roof. Don't leave it slid back in the rain though as the water drains won't work and your lovely new interior will get damp. :)

Here's the part I was talking about You want to get the part with the little chromed crank on it to the same point in the track between the two parts marked "Mounts"

Slide the lining back into the roof so it can't be seen. Good luck!

They work completely differently.

Kris. That sounds like leaky injectors. Just need to get them cleaned.

You need to re time the roof, the cables on each side are out of alignment. if you can tilt it and slide the lining back. You should be able to see a track attached to the metal sunroof by torx screws at the front and back. it's relatively straight toward the back but goes up and down at the front. the ends of the cables locate in this and as you move the cable back and forth it raises and lowers the roof. Pop the motor out and you can use a screw driver to move 1 cable at a time through the hole the motor sat in. Get both to exactly the same point and put the motor back in. You'll still be miles out on the open/tilt/slide timing, but it will work again properly.