Toad

The C Can is just a temp relocation buddy. It was a bit wiffy without it though, have read a little about them & you are not alone saying that.... ill be looking into binning it but wondered about the valve that goes with it?? I think CrazyDave found that removing the carbon can could lead to idling issues on the VR as the Motronic expected to "see" it there...

Crossovers can fit under the dash I think. :)

Looks nice snuggled up for winter... Guess you decded not to sell the plate in the end?

I must admit, I did think i might just do an R32 convo on the quiet, but I simply can't be arsed. My cars been off the road for 14 months already. Will start work again soon!

and spend it getting hold of 24 of vw's valves rather than a measley 12! :norty: :tongue: I could buy a 24v for the value of the spares I've built up... But I love the old 12v, the engine was the only reason the car didn't get broken.

Yup... First one I did I had the owner stood next to me when we started it. Was a little bit unsure to say the least! When we finished Dinkus's car this summer, it was so quiet and smooth you wouldn't even have recognised it from the way it used to sound. That was with the Schimmel 263 cams in too. Really can't wait to do mine. Just need to find a spare £1000 or two lying around....

16v I assume? The cold start injector is controlled by the thermotime switch I believe, Not entirely sure about the voltage to it, but I know it doesn't fire for long. Many people have disconnected them and don't have too may problems. If the injector is firing all the time then it would affect your economy. Aftermaket systems such as K-Star used to use the cold start injector to add more fuel at certain parts of the rev range.

Here is the original thread. You can search your own posts to find old threads... I'm going to lock this and try to merge it into the other thread to keep all the information in the same place. tom. Edit... There we go... Can you try to keep everything in here now please? There are quite a lot of other "How do I wire my seats in?" threads in here, I guess you've looked at all of them?

Have you tried getting the car up to temperature then holding it at 2500rpm for 5 minutes + ? I noticed that the tappets take a while to fill, but they do sort themselves out. Usually you can hear each one fill as the engine gets quieter and quieter until it's lovely and smooth and silent. :) First one I did was horrible waiting for the noise to go...

Haha. Buy a BMC...

Have a look in this thread.

why? Because the answer to your question is there....

They are lovely and quiet and smooth when they've had the chains etc sorted aren't they? Nice to hear it's going again.

I agree... Despite people complaining about ovalised bores and timing chain issues, the VR6 is a good solid reliable engine. It's a big capacity to force into a small space, and the fact that there are several high bhp forced induction units going strong at the moment goes to show that it's quite a versatile engine. Overall it's made to a higher standard than the 4 cylinder engines before it, and the Motronic engine management was a good step up from Digifant. With regard to the Scirroco/Corrado/Autobahn experience. I can also say that, a turboed VR, a new Scirroco and a standard VR scampered away from my 16v fairly well. Although mine was still pulling at 130 when the exit started looming. :)

They do learn some changes, like air filters etc, but cams are a big change for the ECU, the basic load/fueling is set by the map, and the ecu can't deviate enough from that to compensate for the changes that cams have. You can drive around with them with no remap, but there is a risk of the fueling being incorrect, and you'll never get the best out of them with the standard map.

If it's the transponder in the key, I believe the engine starts and cuts out after about a second... Oh, and that is the fan and aux water pump control unit... The 5 amp fuse is for the aux pump, which might be shot if the fuse is blown, and the 10 amp fuse is for the fans I think...

Steering rack is bolted to the subframe I'm afraid... Which bolt did you snap?

Tonight... Gallows.... :luvlove: Justice - A Cross the World - as recomended by MicVR Bit of Slipknot, Utah Saints - Something Good '08 (Pendulum Remix) Sebastien Tellier - Le Ritournelle The Knife - Heartbeats, Like a pen etc. Adele - Hometown Glory Panic at the Disco Linkin Park - Some of the album Minutes to Midnight Jamie T - Album Panic Prevention... Absolutely love this album...

Nope. They'll be fine...

Nope. All the jobs I've done have involved fitting Schimmel 263s or Shrick 268 cams as well as doing the timing chains... Unless you want to fit a different set of cams? The 263s seem to work very well :) While you're at it, I'd change the engine and gearbox mounts, possibly oil pump, Wishbones are easier without an engine in the way... How much did you want to spend???? :tongue:

I try to leave 3 days, just so everything can be done properly. Most of the ones I've done have had new cams putting in at the same time. Clutch doesn't add any more time to the job, you have to remove it anyway to get the flywheel off. A mate is required to help lock the engine when you torque a few bolts up. Crankshaft oil seal (as mentioned) needs replacing and I'd put a new main water pump in, and crack pipe and thermostat housing while you are at it. Saves time in the future.

It's not too bad to do... There is a good guide on here, and if you can get hold of the Bentley manual or the Peter Russek pocket manual then they talk you through it. You do need an engine hoist, and there will be a lot of heavy lifting. (Less so if you use a hoist to take the whole lot out the car though... I'm sure I wrote a guide for getting the engine out on here too. It's pretty simple, just work your way through the bay slowly. Front off the car, unpluy everything, exhaust off, p/s pump off engine and leave with the car, drive shafts off, then lift the engine out.... Easy Peasy...

Timing chain? Yeah it is, you need to drop the gearbox out of the car to do it. Personally I always lift the engine and box out of the car, I find it easier in the long run, and allows you space for other work such as changing wishbones, painting the block, ceaning or painting the bay.

well, it is now £50 +VAT per hour, which is a bit painful when your car is there for 18 hours of work but i certainly still recommend them. :? To be honest, (it's probably the cocodomol talking right now) I still have no idea how that work ever took 18 hours....

Yeah, I thought that wrapping cast manifolds was bad, but thin tubular manifolds needed wrapping to keep the temps up and help exhaust scavenging.