Jim Bowen

Think this is the bit you mean And then this hose with a non return valve I basically replaced all the rubber parts and crimped connections with an 8mm ID ptfe hose or you could use a rubber pipe, i found the cheap stuff perished quite quickly

I swapped all mine for a Ptfe hose with a branded black outside to it. Then used the clamps you squeeze with a tool, ear clamps? They pushed onto all the original fittings, is quite tricky cutting the old connectors off though. I have some photos i can link to thread tomorrow. Kept the original front to back fuel lines.

Yep, really it should come on and then go off. Depends on your MOT tester, mine passed 9 mots with no ABS light. Decided to fix it for the 10th :lol:

I reckon he knows :lol:

Yeah, exhaust Lambda sensor and one of the sensors on the engine block (is it crank or knock sensor i think its called)

I've had two different looms and the wire to the oil temp sensor corroded on both on them which made the oil temp very erratic until one day it just stops reading. Worth checking the wire out

Latest Update: Think some people already saw my posts about the engine problem, decided it has to be a bearing/something to do with bottom end. Got a bit fed up and just left the car for a couple of weeks. So engine is coming back out again, going to give the whole lot to Stealth racing to look at and rebuild. Got this far, could probably do this with my eyes shut now :lol: Been working on the body this weekend, sanding bits down again, i sort of rushed the painting to get it back on the road before the end of last year. I guess at least now i have time to do it properly, and its dry/warm instead of cold and damp.

They just make stuff up on the spot, i worked them into a corner with questions and they just come up with some new excuse as to why something is more expensive, Told me the length of time you have owned the car affects it, so i asked when i reinsurance the corrado that i've had nearly 10yrs it should be cheaper than it was when i took it off the road 2yrs ago. Nope price went up.

Is all the wiring ok? When i replaced my alternator i had the wiring re-made. Basically just a new earth wire with connections crimped on

I noticed when buying them (and someone mentioned it on here) the yellow one is now sold as a black with a blue stripe. You can buy a blank and remove the aircon one (that's what i've done) My car came with aircon and had Blue, Yellow and black, Black being for aircon.

I add hylomar blue to mine, seems to help

The whole idea of cars coming in different colours is they appeal to different people :lol:

Splitter should stay on bumper, but i think you want to fit the metal bar afterwards as the bolts fit to the rad support iirc

Ordered mine from GSF or ECP, can't remember, but got the ones that were about £15 and they are working fine, its the first time in 9yrs i've had working ABS :lol: VW charge a silly amount for them, i remember asking and thinking i'd rather try the cheap one, they aren't exactly a complicated thing.

Just check the pedal end, it'll either be a hook or a ball.

Check them metal arms, they bend and make it stiff to turn and then the cogs snap if you force it. They can be taken totally apart and re-greased etc

I know there are two types, even going to VW with all my car details they still got the wrong one for me. They were convinced it should have been correct, made me wonder if VW just chucked in whatever pedals they have left over

Black paint is the best i find.

Any recommendations for a sump, probably silly money from VW, are the 3rd party ones on ebay decent enough? Don't want the alloy one.

:( That's the sort of thing i do. Had my bonnet up and was jacking car up, was getting difficult and couldn't work out why, so looked up and the bonnet was stuck on the ceiling/up and over door :lol: Bent the bonnet stay and marked the paint.

Do a burnout imo, if that doesn't work then something is wrong

Will be 2yrs in september i think, thats when i picked the bottom end up from Stealth and they bought the pump for me. Interesting to know about the warranty.

Would people normally replace all of them? Also is there two half circles (shells) for each con rod? Like a top and bottom?

This makes a lot of sense, some of what is in the sump looks coppery coloured.

Yeah, i did spend quite a bit of money on it (and time) Is a bearing shell an easy fix? More worrying me is why its been starved of oil. Might stop investigating and just fit the other engine for now and let stealth sort this engine out.