Jim Bowen

Reply #4 (just over halfway down the thread) on this thread discusses this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1264409-DIY-Replacing-timing-chains-tensioners-and-guides-on-a-12v-VR6%5C "The reason that the above procedure is necessary is due to the fact that the 4 timing sprockets (crank, inner intermediate, outer intermediate and camshaft (2)) do not have the same number of teeth. As a result, a full rotation of the crank sprocket does not produce one full rotation in the other sprockets. The impact of this is that setting the crankshaft to Cyl. #1 TDC does not always simultaneously set the intermediate sprocket to the correct position for the reinstallation of the upper timing chain. If you want to read a more detailed explanation of why this is a problem, check out the following thread - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1406495. Here are some posts of mine from that thread for the curious, but lazy ..."

I can't remember the exact reasons, but he had seen cars lose up to 40bhp with it fitted the wrong way. Something to do with the way the ecu adjusts things and something about every fourth revolution and a number of teeth on a gear. He was very certain about it. So i did what he said. Sorry for the non-technical description :lol:

Cheers. Am enjoying doing it. Going to try and fit oil pump tonight, i should of done it earlier as its quite hard to turn the engine upside now.

Got the new timing stuff on last night I took some pics of the various timing marks with the intentions of making some sort of guide, but then figured the info is all out there as i managed to do it. One thing Vince told me was on the intermediate sprocket, the alignment mark has to point up with piston 1 at TDC, Not "either top or bottom mark" as some guides say.

I melted one with acetone by accident, shouldn't of listened to the internet :lol:

also: might need to translate the page http://store.technikvalles.com/referencias/14699-535853705--01c.html

I only had a very quick look tbh but these came up. http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/products/Satin-black/5514533/535853705-01C.html Says audi, but is the correct part number

Think I just used a silicone sealant. Be aware the colour of sealant makes quite a difference to the look of the lamp. It's usually white sealant.

Googled the part number and appears you may be able to buy them from the US, although a website saying they have them and them actually having them are different things.

What are you doing with the shell? Do you have plans for it?

This is Chris harris, Driving his own car in this one.

I think Chris Harris should be on top gear, Clarkson and May are too old and i'm bored of seeing Clarkson trying to drift a car around the test track, you never see a complete drift, its always cut off and edited shortly after he starts drifting. Probably because he can't manage it.

It wasn't clicking off, had to keep checking it on the wheel nuts, had the same problem last week working on the audi and sheared a bolt. I think it was something to do with the handle and the way it twists and locks. My mate is going to bring his snap-on one down so i can test mine against it.

Felt heavy, similar to the original VW gasket, but had a sort of rubbery feel to it. Should be fine, its one of the reasons i went for the ARP studs (just in case head comes off again)

None that i know of, meant to be as a standard replacement, hope i've not fitted a naff one :(

Had mine done this year, would of been £420 if i'd paid privately, but insurance paid it and cost me £60. Not sure yet if its affected my insurance or not.

The stalk on steering column can bugger up, had that happen on mine, not sure how to check it but i'd changed everything else and a new stalk sorted things out.

Got some more done over the weekend, not been working very fast so taking it slow and triple checking stuff. Got some INA lifters for the head Soaked them in oil before fitting Fitted them to the head Fitted the schimmel 263's Had loads of trouble getting the sprockets off so had to fit new bolts and a new cam pickup bit. Fitted the ARP studs to the block Fitted Victor Reniz head gasket, i actually used some sealant as well, (advice from Vince at Stealth) Then put head on and got it all torqued up. (thinking of getting a better torque wrench, had a bit of trouble with the halfords pro ones) Doing the timing chains etc next.

Think they are one of the hard parts to find.

No, i don't think it has. I know it went in for the flywheel/clutch issue which they fixed. Will have to look into the injector thing.

Wow, looks fantastic, really depresses me when i think how much mine needs a respray like that, hopefully next year :lol:

A thing called an Intake Manifold Flap. Fills up with soot and jams, then blows a fuse which is also used by part of the aircon system. Seems really common, loads of people with exactly the same 3 fault codes as me. New part is about £180, Then i spent about £90 on an EGR delete kit. And will now probably have a remap done at some point so the EGR light isn't always on. I can't really afford any of it so gone on the credit card for now.

I did get it cheap as it was my dads car he owned from nearly new, so thats the only thing keeping me interested in it. It really has put me off diesels as well, seems to be such a dirty engine inside, soot everywhere. I ended up buying a few bits from Darkside developments last night, including a EGR delete kit. Am quite glad i've found out the car doesn't have a DPF (diesel particulate filter). Just a bit gutted i'm having to spend out on it, was meant to be something reliable to get me to work while i fix up the corrado.

Scrap that, think i've found an answer, bloody car is costing more than the corrado :(

If you leave stuff in for a while you get a dark grey film form over the parts, just brushes off but smells pretty grim if you get it on your fingers and then smell your fingers.