Jim Bowen

Works out at 195,088 people a year not that badly hurt in a traffic accidents, i think that's only an 8% chance of being seriously hurt or dead if in an accident. 32 million cars on the road today, so less than a 1% chance your going to crash.

Shouldn't really go that quickly, i think you can look at the sensors in vagcom and check the readings the ecu is getting to determine if they are working correctly (i'm not totally sure how to do it though). Am not sure if lambda sensor can cause similar symptoms. tbh i could just name lots of random sensors or parts which is what usually happens on the internet :lol: I seem to end up renewing everything and buying spares i don't really need.

What coilpack did you put on it, thats usually a sign of coilpack issues. Or the coolant sensors can lead to overfuelling.

I am still hoping my bits turn up, not kicked up a fuss yet. I bought some expensive parts from him before and everything went ok, so i'm still trusting him. I did say i wasn't in a rush but paid a number of weeks ago now and had no reply from a message i've sent.

Depends what you want it for. Some people would buy something like that and only drive it to shows to get a pat on the back and a trophy made in a cobblers. Would you want to drive it everyday? I think you have to be a certain sort of car fan to fork out for something like that. Much more car to be had for the money. I still believe cars are for driving. Let museums do the preserving. They always win at it.

When i first got mine it had the perished rubber edge along the roof trims, i ran a stanley knife down that edge and trimmed it all off. Has been 8yrs since and hardly notice anything is missing, never leaked or caused any issues.

Are chrome catches ok? I bought some and not sure how they will look etc. That's the reason I was going to take mine off and try to get some pics for you.

Have you got a clutch master cylinder with whatever it connects to behind the pedal etc. Cheap as possible as probably not for fitting to car.

I know, i've had a boner all weekend, its a shame i won't really see any of it once fitted.

Corrado won't hold idle, its a VR6, been doing it ages, its ok if you hold the revs with the pedal for a short while, but runs quite rough. I haven't used it for months and always smell petrol when i walk by it. Are there any likely hoses or seals that may be leaking at the rear end? I replaced the ones in engine bay, also tried maf, isv, coolant sensors etc to try and cure the idle and wondering if it could be fuel related.

When i bought the car 8yrs ago i had never even changed a brake pad on a car before that. Just bought tools as i need them and then have bought the parts slowly keeping an eye out for bargains. I like to think if a man built it, then i can too, its usually just sticking a bolt in a hole and turning it. Hoping it all goes to plan, not really looking forward to having to run it in, seems a bit tedious.

Yeah, have ordered new proper clips and ditching the jubliee's, thinking of buying a whole new set of Roose hoses, not had much luck with the samco ones. I bought the Teves20 off someone on here, so its all ready to fit. Think price varyings depending if you find all the bits yourself or buy a whole setup. Tbh i don't actually know too much about it, just thought i'd sort out my ABS this time round as its never worked. Picked up my bottom end from Stealth Racing yesterday, (really good bunch of guys up there, not only Vince) This was a new block and pistons instead of a rebuild. Stealth had it to fit crank and conrods, new bearings/washers etc. They also supplied a new oil pump and gasket set. Its a 2.8 instead of the 2.9, not sure exactly how many cc's difference it actually is. (using corrado inlet etc and some 263 cams, magnex exhaust and bmc cda air filter so should be enough, not looking for massive power, mainly wanting it to last 15yrs or so) Now have all the bits i need (apart from a few little bits) Just got to bolt things together and chuck it in the car. Had all the covers etc aquablasted, not going to paint them. Will update as i go along. My project thread has been a bit random and think most of the photo links have been moved etc.

Was going to fit my headgasket and head today, noticed the Peter Russek book i'm reading says you should have 2 locating guide sleeves on the block for head gasket and they must be fitted. My new block doesn't have these and there is no sign of them on my old block. I am using arp studs instead of head bolts, am i correct in thinking you fit these and then slide the head over them. So in theory could i do without these guide sleeves or would it best to wait and order some. I think its just a sleeve of metal with a slit cut in it. Can't see it does anything else than hold the headgasket in place.

I thought only one rod went to the plastic bit. (Black bit in your photo) I fancy taking mine off to find out. It's been a while so I could well be wrong.

Am sure I attached the plastic bit to the rod that goes to door pin. The rod just sits in the hole and I think the plastic bit has a clip on it. I seem to remember fitting it then having to turn it to engage the clip. Then put the bottom rod that goes to interior handle onto the lock part. With it like that you can pull it outwards and slip the lever bit into the plastic bit. Dunno if that makes any sense but I have taken these bits off a few times and don't really remember it being too hard. I've got new bits to fit so will be doing both sides soon. Not sure how desperate you are to do it. But I can get pics and refresh my memory.

If you see a chocolate bar on the shelf with "not for resale" on it (and its not in the multi-pack, does that mean you are allowed to take it for free?

I don't what will happen in the future, seeing as they are glass and do break and no one seems to make them. Will we all have to use the angel eye versions :lol: hope not.

I put the heat shield back on. There are fuel lines near that area and also the exhaust manifolds. So probably the hottest most flammable area. Not to bad to change the mount. Easier with the intake elbow etc removed. It's one of those areas you end up with loads of cuts and scrapes on your arms.

You can jack up the engine a bit to get wishbone bolt out. Just means undoing the bolts on the engine mounts. Which can be a bit awkward tbh. Deffo looks like a wrong wishbone I'm sorry to say.

Howabout plastidip? I have been considering doing this to mine, (maybe only for a year or so) http://www.matt-pack.co.uk/ http://www.youtube.com/user/MattPackcouk

How come the wishbones are different ones? Top ones looks like corrado, bottom one doesn't?

I have standard shocks and lowered springs on the rear of mine at the moment, Not driven many miles with them on though.

A more recent milestone of mine.

Think i'll try the B12 kit next. My koni stuff has hardly done any mileage so can always flog that on.

Bright silver always looks nice, white on white can look alright but i'd get bored of it quite quickly (gives the car a bit of a cheap/boyracer look if i'm honest) I'd get the missing bit of bumpstrip put on first :)