Mike Edwards

If the cambelt snapped this would stop the engine - really quickly - causing the oil light to come on....

Seconded. Bottle jack under the front of the gearbox will allow you to change it yourself.

Where is it making peak torque?

Or, just fit the sensors, ecu and loom from your existing - knackered - engine to the highline one. Also, fit the inlet manifold and associated plumbing. The Golf engine develops more torque at low revs, so may actually feel quicker...

Until such time as the insurance company cheque clears, it's your car. Any additional damage that occurs while it is kept by the salvage company is their fault. Someone was trying to sell a complete bodyshell on here recently - might be worth a look depending on how bad the damage to the rear quarter is.

The DIP switches are needing a clean. find where the brain is and I'll tell you how to do it via a pm.

Just take the driver's side dash tray off and see if that makes things a bit easier. Failing that, you may have a problem with the controls themselves.

Well, I was looking for a G60 when I came across the VR... Dr Mat - I'd also need to swap the bonnet* as they need to be "modified" to provide clearance. *As it happens, just repainted.

This was a modified G60? Comparing standard cars suggests that the VR makes more torque (what you actually feel driving the car - BHP is just a number obtained by multiplying how much torque is being made by how fast the engine was spinning at the time) from around 3300 - 6000+rpm than a G60 makes as a peak value. There is a bit of a hole in the torque curve on the VR below 2500rpm though. BTW, if anyone with a G60 fancies a VR*, I might have one to trade in the new year. *VSR and decat pipe included if the spec looks good enough.

£315?? :shock: MJ could do a good job of refinishing your original ones for a lot less than that...

Too low - unless you drive on a billiard table....

Herefordshire??? Where in Herefordshire????

You'll need to change the headlight lens and lens surround if you're going to do that...

Errmm.... Kev, there are bumpstops on the front of the C. They do need one segment trimming off them if you fit shorter springs - or you can fit the shorter bumpstops from a Mk4....

Unless there is something about the lights fitted to North American vehicles that's not documented on ETKA, the only part that's different should be the lenses. Uprating the loom will work in all cases.

The hub nut clamps the whole assembly against the inner-race of the wheel bearing at a guess.

Well, given that the brightness varies with the instruments, probably yes. Getting the knob off is easier that getting at the fuses. Just grip the knob between both forefingers and thumbs and pull straight back.

Looks like it's clamped in place behind the wheel hub.

Koni T/A coilovers are nice on a 16v...

He looks to have fitted an aftermarket engine management system - so junking the metering head...

Or...

How about...

Hmm... too big for the car - the bodywork falls away too quickly from the wheels. Maybe if you extended the bodywork from the waistline downwards like a Rallye? Given the above, brown is probably a sensible colour - doesn't show all the dirt that'll be thrown up the sides of the car...

Could lead to serial Elk Tests as the poor beasts are tranfixed buy what they see approaching them. Try asking Niko - who lives in Funland - where to get bits cheaply (okay, yes, I know - Finland is not particularly close to Norway until you get past the Arctic Circle - but he buys and sells VW/Audi bits from all over the place so should know where to get stuff cheaply...)

If your car had bar (rather than hook) exhaust hangers it will fit fine. The Magnex on my blue VR was originally fitted to a G60.