Mike Edwards

Not bad for a days work! Next time take it off to give yourslf an easier job?

Strip out all the sound deadening material - it weighs LOTS. Your car will then be unpleasantly noisy, but significantly lighter. :D

Warped disks cause vibration that feels like an unbalanced wheel when braking gently from speed. Grabby brakes is something else...

On the tailgate - arounf the numberplate light. Roddy, yours is rusting cos you live in a part of the UK where they put so much salt down that it kills the grass within several meters of the kerb... :D

No. But it does have the same one as the late model 2.0 16v. The early-modle 2.0 16v had the same one as the G60, so a straight swap should be possible.

Probably easier to make up spacers to go between the carriers and the hubs.

S Jedi-night says, both of the top mounts in the pictyre are rears. The one on the left as done 80k miles (!!!) the one on the right is a brand new VW part. I was "quite surprised" by the difference - hence the picture....

Rear top mounts would also be a good idea after that sort of mileage. See picture for explanation.....

Replacing the bumpstops is good advice, as they act not just as bumpstops but additional springs. The rear ones are about 15cm tall, with the front ones being about 7cm. Powerflex kit may not be the best way to go though. If you want to lower it a little, it all comes down to budget. up to 25mm lower on a new set of good quality bampers should be fine - just buy a lowering spring kit. If you're having to replace the dampers, it may be worth going for a set of Koni top adjustable dampers and a set of H&R springs. This is about the best set up without going to a set of coilovers. Not all coilover kits are equal though - you get what you pay for. However, unless you want to lower the car a lot (which will not help the ride or handling btw), or see the need to adjust the ride height on a regular basis there isn't much point. HTH

Remove the dash 1st - it makes it sooo much easier...

Its the breather hose from the cam cover to the inlet manifold. If it's split, unmetered (and unfiltered...) air will be drawn in by the engine. Can't help the running...

The brand of tyres can also make a big difference. From my own experience, Pirelli P7000 in 17" give a better ride than Fulda Carat Extremo in 16" for example.

VR6 calipers, carriers and pads fit staright on, just buy a set of G60 disks.

Kent GF1602R cams. More grunt across the rev-range and - when coupled with K&N panel filter + Miltek exhaust gives over 150bhp...

The widest point should be near the mounting for the lock pin on the pillar - about half-way up. There are a load of measurements given in the Bently manual for the underside of the chassis, but no easy way to describe them.

Well: Front strut tower centre distance = 1087mm. Front chassis leg seperation = 935mm (measured at front inner edge, at the mid point curved strengthener) Door aperture = 1100mm (measured horizontally at the widest point) Rear strut tower centre distance = 1107mm Tailgate aperture = 1094mm (measured horixontally at widest point) Tailgate aperture = 950mm (measured on body centreline) B-pillar seperation = 1374mm (measure horisontally at the rear edge of the door aperture) HTH.

The other thing to check is the pipe that runs from the breather of the cam cover to the inlet tract. It runs directly above the heatshield for the exhaust, so guess where any drips land.

"Might" be persuaded to sell my H&R coilovers...

My 16v does on overrun at high revs. More of a "bang!" though from the tail-pipe.

Oh - btw. To do this, you need the abs switched off. Disconnect the plug for one of the front wheel sensors where the cable passes over the top of the front strut mounting.

Read Kevhaywire's post. To get the adjustment about right, set it so that if you stomp on the brakes in a straight line on a dry road (difficult at the moment I know) the rear end is on the point of skidding, but doesn't actually get out of line.

The brakes from a TT/S3 etc won't fit a Vr6 without spacers between the caliper-carrier and the hub.

Have you considered nailing them on??? :twisted:

Guess how I know about the cambelt...

May your sins be forgiven...