Philmo

Do they really put "tread" on the ice round your way? What a great idea! :clap: :lol:

Glad to hear of the offer - where do we queue?

Jammy burger! There's still salt on the roads down here - not enough rain yet. [Never thought I'd ever say that.]

If that was the first movement this year - it will have been painful! :shock: HNY :wave:

Taking the thinking further - a 12"x8" [£9.99] sheet will do 1 car!

Yes - fogs & indics No overhang or margin allowed - The ones I've seen done haven't included an overhang or drip strip - I'm thinking an overhang might permit weathering of the adhesive joint. And if you cut carefully, why have a margin? The material I've seen doesn't tolerate much wrap around the radiused edges - perhaps 20 deg of arc tops before it forms wrinkles.

Now then guys - has anyone else actually measured their lights? I have a late VR and reckon 14"x3" covers one side. [rather than 18"x4"] So a 12"x16" [£15.99] sheet will do 2 cars. 18"x8" =£15.99 In addition going for 1 sheet saves £0.49 in p&p. So you just need to buy in pairs to save £8 odd each!!

Going back to fuel pumps, mine's running with uprated pump [stealth supplied, presumably Walbro?], PR valve with as deep a dimple as Vince dare press in plus std injectors and returns 279/292 bhp, depending on barometric. Vince advises there's perhaps 20bhp left in the capacity of the std injectors.

My favourite engine sound is the Carrera GT V10. :luvlove: :luvlove: For looks/spec I'd go for Vantage V12 though. But for recent weather conditions I'd compromise on the R8 V10.

Eh? :? :? :?

Just pray you haven't taken some water into the engine and "hydraulicked" it. Could the water have got near the actual air inlet? Hydraulicking often results in 1 or more bent rods which do cause juddering. As far as I know the quickest way to check for this is to drop the sump, for a visual. Clearly there are easier things to check first! Hydraulicking won't necessarily allow a significant amount of water into your oil system as it would need to get past the rings. [Though instantaneous V high pressures are involved] It won't pressurise valve seals as the open valve relieves pressure.

Hi Swompy That's about the best I can say without seeing it directly. Hope it gets you to Kidderminster OK.

Sounds very much like a brake which has its quota of crud and corrosion, possibly sat with a full on handbrake for extended period which simply needs a bit of TLC. ie a thorough clean up, bit of coppergrease film on sliding surfaces [except disc/pads of course]. Looking on the bright side, this is possibly all it needs! If the heat build up is severe I'd try excercising the caliper slide and piston by levering the caliper back away from the disc, causing the piston to retract, while avoiding damage to friction pad. Follow this by footbrake operation to fully extend piston. Do this several times till movement is easier, then try it on the road. I'm sure D&GA will sort it for you for the longer term. Best of luck.

I cant wait to hear it!! :clap: I'm rather hoping you won't be able to hear it in Amman! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Can proceed at leisurely pace LOL. You had that advisory last year and from what I know any new rear beam has been pretty leisurely so far!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: But I've had Tom's old beam only since November! Anyhow - got another 12 months now! Got 1 out of 3 sheared stub-axle scews out now, just started heat treatment on the last 2 after a month of plus-gas failed. Also got something more important to do [now that MOT's out of the way] - fit Shaun's old tailor made 2.5" decat ex pipe!

Sorry - can't see the upside of this - could you explain? [could it be you're using a partially worn part of the cam?] BTW I have apair of 98k std cams if you're interested!

BTW Has any of you guys reported on the Eurohoon? [You must have a vid of the St Bernadino & Stelvio?] Sorry if I've missed it. Are there any senior C drivers fancying a similar trip - 2010?

Son - I can't believe you just said that - but you're right! What a way to re-christen a classic green!

That's a mean looking C Neil - what's she got?

This must be the most FAQ on the CF. The short answer is Raceland offer a reasonable quality, good value stainless 6 branch. See recent thread "What Manifold?" in this same section.

Just to complete the picture, 2 lots of men in blue stopped me before you took over my classic, to express interest and leave a phone number. Do you recall the rapping crew in Manchester in a 330 who stopped and offered to buy it? I went for the Bora because of the similar engine [but how different!] and after 18 months of regular contact with yours, I had to have another! Indubitably addictive!

Thanks Phil The aim this year is to drive it more than work on it now everything has been done - looking to get on santa pod too 8) Bob Let us know when you're going on - there'll be quite an audience with you! :D

Took Corryn in for her MOT - the ol' girl passed with flying colours! :clap: [despite an advisory last year re rear beam needing some Waxoyl so spare beam renovation can proceed at leisurely pace!] New advisory - 6 pots not running as free as they should - need using more!!! :shock: She also tried out her Christmas pressie - Lupo wipers - what a difference! [thanks Goldie] :D

This car! How can it get any better? But it does. A technical tour-de-force and work of art combined. :notworthy:

Cupra nickel is harder and longer lasting than copper, easier to work than steel pipe and should corrode less, it wont be out in the winter though :) Thanks for the comments guys :thumbleft: it has become a bit of an obsession :? engine out next winter for rebuild and tidy up :shock: just dont know where to stop Heres a couple from the summer [roll on]passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSCN1202.JPG[/attachment:1eazbtcm] The copper-nickel tube I've used is called "Cunifer" and comes in coils. If you can get hold of a "flaring" kit you can make up your own lines with the correct shaped ends. Two big advantages : You can mould it to shape to suit the contours of the body It's almost completely corrosion resistant [certainly better than 304 s/s, not quite as good as 316] but does benefit from painting with Waxoyl. Our local VW specialist E&S Swift uses it.