KipVR

I think I may have found some new wheels to fit, but early days yet. There more OEM than the current ones. You'll find out on here soon enough if all goes well...Meanwhile I'm still busy restoring a house with every spare minute I have, so the C is tucked up and my old mans house well away from building dust....

Still after one!!

Well it was just about finished,but then I took it all apart again to redo the engine loom in corrugated stuff and I haven't put it all back together again since! Just haven't had time really. It's a three box system, I'm only selling because I would like to experiment with exhaust flap valves etc.

Here's one I have of the backing plates on off the hubs, not much good i know!

Glad to hear it's all sorted Kev, hearing how it goes makes me wish i'd get a move on with mine to get it properly finished and on the road, unfortunately the house rennovation comes first! I have a nearly new (less than 1k miles I reckon) Jetex if you are interested?

Yeah you should really have the backing plates on a road car, if anything to protect the lbj ruber from the disc heat. Laser cutting one won't solve the problem though as the current one is close to the disc anyhow.

Good work Jon, so here's what we know so far.... 1.The suspension damper is attached to the upright through the two holes. Going from what pictures I have, the holes in the damper are evenly spaced from its centreline. This means that the strut is parallel to a line drawn between the two holes on the upright. So this is the direction the upright travels in when the suspension moves. 2. We know the factory camber setting (well I don't but I'm sure others on here do!) , this will give you the angle to set the hub flange up at. You do not need to take into account the caster, as it's only the relationship between the upright and the swing of the wishbone that we are changing. 3. The radius of the wishbone swing is 355mm Now if you lower the car 30mm then the wishbone moves up by 30mm and also inwards by 1.27mm (if they start off flat as Jay said). So all you need to do is move the balljoint down by 30mm (along the centreline of the strut) and then outwards by the 1.27mm and you'll have maintained the original position. However...... I've been scanning through a few old pics of mine (my Corrado isn't to hand as it's under wraps and my old mans house) and it may just be that you'll just have to move it vertically downwards to avoid it hitting the backing plates. So what would the effect of this be? Well you would reduce the KPI which would also cause the camber to go in the positive direction, so to correct that you would have to move it back negative again, which then moves the scrub in the positive direction (the bottom of the wheel outwards away from the KPI)which means more steering feel but harder steering and more torque steer. ..But I'd be amazed if anyone could notice the difference if it was left as was, you'd be talking about 2mm change in scrub or something. I would suspect that the Corrado has marginal negative scrub as standard, most fwd do. Here are some pics for reference. If you wan't me to do the modelling then i'm happy to do it pal, but you'll need to look under a few c's at the rr day and check it all out!

Cool, nothing to worry about then! Thanks guys.

My central locking has always made a groaning noise since I bought it, is that normal ?!

From a distance they look like a bigger solitude, I think they look spot on.

How far away from the disk guard is the lbj? Is there enough room to move it down in line with the kpi or would you have to move it vertically down?

Yes it should be to the strut top mount- I'm not sure if that's what he has done though? The wording can be read two ways...

That tends to happen with books! At least you can remember who you lent it too! Spot on with the kpi etc- edit sorry no the kpi goes from your top mount to your lbj Kev, analysis would be done as part of the design process, especially suspension components! Getting the geometry isn't a problem, deciding on the geometry would be the hard bit. I'm sure people would want different things...

If you go down the cast steel route, they can use the modded upright as a pattern but they will need one for each side and I'm not sure how accurate the modified parts could be. However they will still need to know all the post machining ops, classification etc. The other option is to model a modified upright, we can rapid prototype from there- but that would be quite pricey but more accurate. Or just model a new upright using the existing scan as a reference, do a drawing, and get some machined from ally, not sure how much that would cost though, if you were to buy the ally for one set, in 7075 it would cost about £150 per side. But it might be much cheaper if you bought enough for 15 sets but I'm not sure. Seems I was replying as Jon was too! Jon/Boost Monkey, there is no point in modelling a pair of modified hubs, you may as well do the modifications in the CAD as it'll be more accurate, I don't mind doing this/you doing this, but others may want to go down a different route of production and i don't want to step on any toes...

As Sam says it would be a much neater job to move the 'spindle' so to speak, but how much clearance is there from the outer CV joint when in place to the underside of the suspension strut mounting lug- 10mm maybe? It doesn't look like there would be much, which means it would be difficult to lower the car by moving the bore through the hub upwards. 30mm would be out of the question. To get that much you would have to reduce the suspension travel (using shorter springs) and then correcting the geometry using the LBJ method- or lower the mount on the cast hub/upright. If you use the LBJ method it would be best to extend the Ball Joint along the KPI to maintain the existing scrub radius.

Rear wishbone mount loose?

Hey Jon, do you want a model of the hub? If so let me know our email and I'll try and dig it out.

I bought a 330i touring, very dull compared to the corrado, but still nice and sounds good. Kept the corrado though!

Looks great Kev, I wasn't so sure about passing over the manifold, but seeing as you made it so simple, you've nothing to lose by trying it first.

I can't remember the exact weights, but I can remember the R32 engine was actually marginally lighter.

Kev, most people on the R32 forums are using a remapped VW ECU the car comes with, maybe the DTA offers more adjustment and hence better power outputs?

The washer bottle is from a Mk1 Golf Diesel- mainly american market. I made the bracket for it. It also has the capasity for headlight washers should I feel the need to empty my washer bottle of fluid in 2 pulls of the stalk! The Airbbox is a Mk1 TT V6 one. I haven't held it in all the same places as it would have been in the TT, actually i've just remembered I chopped a plastic mounting lug off to stop it rubbing on a hose. I've made a bracket that holds it against the side (see above) and another that holds it from underneath (no pics of that yet)

I've got no idea why the dsg MAF's should be bigger, I thought it was an Audi / VW thing not gearbox related? The map is different between Audi and VW I know that much and I think the Audi's have a 3 more BHP or something? The airbox (Mk1 3.2V6 TT) was fairly easy to fit tbh, I made a bracket with a tube on it to suspend the stud that pokes out of the air feed side, and then, drilled out the spot welds holding the water bottle bracket on. There's a small air guide that comes on the TT I originally planned to put through the wing by the battery (see pic with masking tape on) but i chickened out of cutting the hole in the wing- I considered it to be an irreversible mod I couldn't easily put back. So now I plan to somehow get air from behind the headlight around the back of the battery as there is actually a fair amount of ducting room there. The lower hose on the water bottle neatly goes around the lower half of the airbox.

...or something like this maybe? It would need the bigger Audi TB to fit, but it might just squeeze in the gap between the engine and washer bottle if you move the header tank over the other side, but it might be a bit too wide by the looks of it. I used a TT one because it has a ribbed top (ooerr) like the VR one and it matched the TB. Do you know of anyone who makes a stand alone for a diesel? I need more mpg from my daily Mk2 and I'm looking at the 2.0 tdi engines. Great read as always, keep the updates coming!

You can buy el panels made to fit the Corrado heater panels, someone on here will know where from...