KipVR

Check it, there should be a 12V supply, earth, and then when you turn the key one of the remaining two pins should go live, and when you turn it the other way, the other pin should. On the plug one wire will be brown, that's earth.

They are the contol valves, so they have the switches inside them to tell the pump to pump or to stop pumping etc when you turn the key, I think! Edit, just beaten to it!!

.........and suddenly it appeared, as if by majik :dance: :ignore:

Nowt wrong with licking a well kept carpet, must be clean though. :D

You need them for dolby surround though for films :D, but not big ones.

Having pondered over it a bit, I was thinking that the early K-Jet Mk2's would have a similar set up and be a straight ish fit to the corrado floorpan, but they appear to be slightly different with a 2 pump set up (much as both of you FI boys have I suppose?), one in the tank and one underneath, but it does house the accumulator, pump and filter very neatly by the looks of the diagram. I've never seen one in the flesh though. Just food for thought.Untitled-1.jpg[/attachment:2dc81ojm]

Feckin nice :clap: :clap: loving the engine install, it looks factory.

Just a thought James, but Mk1's Gti fuel pump which looks identically sized, has a foam jacket around it because they are so noisy, you could try one of them perhaps? here....No.28Untitled-1.jpg[/attachment:y0u9u964]

Have you got spline sockets? They are perfectly sized so that you can hammer one into a rounded off hex socket, I've had to do it twice on the rear caliper carriers and both times it's worked a treat :D

Keeping your other purchase quiet then Pete :D ?

Woo hoo!! Any ideas how it got in? :D

Nice corrado, but the badge looks out of style with the reast of the car.

I think the silver car makes them look better, they really suit it, infact it looks feckin nice. If it was a green Corrado as your is, I don't think they would look as good, but I may be talking out of my ass as usual. :D

Cheers James, I'm only going to do all this once mind !!!! :D

Got my plated bits back for the ABS unit......

You could probably get one made, but I've just been informed by Pete Griff that Denso Marston no longer deal with the public unless you are a rally team :(, sorry it's been a while (10 years or so!) since I've looked into radiators and since then Marston have changed significantly....

Oh sorry Kev, yeah it's now Denso Marston not Marsdon as I typed, we used to have a shop here that used to deal with them direct and I had just presumed you still could without looking. No doubt you could still get one though a specialist radiator shop, there cores are used by lots of rad manufacturers and are very good. The worst bit of the OE ones is the plastic tanks on the ends. Sorry for the confusion chap :confused: Having just said that, try their number on the site (0)1902 572777 you may get some info- maybe a supplier, they make rads to spec to they do deal with individuals.

No they are 323mm from a Seat Cupra 'R'

if only it was that easy, the nitromors or any other paint stripper wont go through the factory primer so the only way to get it all off is to sand it :( bought some of those rubber strip disc for the the shell, the nitromors is just too slow, takes it a while to go through 6 paint jobs :roll: Try the heat gun then chap, helps a lot, well it did for our cars anyway!

Yeah I might do karl, but I'm not absolutely sure that my calipers are the same as the seat ones. My offset seems to look smaller :shrug: I need someone to check their brackets against my drawing (page two on this thread there is a pdf of it) :D

your just going against the blower that's all, it's all a bit shit to be honest, not very well thought out, but then it's a low production volume car....8 series BMW's are then same, lots of silly niggles.

Nice progress chap, really impressive. :salute: I noticed you've been sanding the bare metal, tell me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but if you use nitromors (put cling film over it to prevent the solvent from evaporating so quick) onto a 40grit sanded area and then use exactly (very important) the type of wire brush pictured below, the paint comes off really easy, but the main advantage is it doesn't take the galvanising off the panel which sanding does, it's also really good for getting into fiddly areas like door shuts etc. Heating up the paint (and so blistering it) with a heat gun first also makes for much faster paint removal. Keep up the good work, this thread is good reading :D

just remember to put copper slip on the replacements!

Yeah it's definately the cables mate, happens on all of them, the grease on the mechanism makes relatively little difference.

Check my build thread, all about them in there :D