KipVR

Your car has totally changed my opinions of Red Corrado's, I think it looks spot on with the RC's :salute: My lupo's always judder too, thinking of changing to TT' ones as my old man threw my originals away :roll:

One less gearchange for the Teg though. :shrug:

You might be interested in this buddy. viewtopic.php?f=29&t=72722&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=el+sheet&start=105

:lol: :lol:

All that makes total sence mate, I would totally go down the route you've chosen given your circumstances.

I really wouldn't bother if I were you, the only reason I would do it is if I was changing the engine etc like Coxylaad has, but simply because of the heater controls is plain crazy, 3rd set? You must be doing something wrong pal, or replacing them with knackered controls?

I feel for you Pete, there doesn't seem to be such a thing as a problem free R32 conversion....Don't loose faith mate, It'll soon all be forgotten by the summer!

Excellent, just the job :D Until he goes through a big puddle! :D

VAGCOM!! Saves specualtion....

Did VW do any kind of cold air feed on any of the Corrado models for cold air on the passesnger side? I'm looking for something that would copy the VR6 feed from under the headlight but on the other side to supply air to my Airbox which is now on the passenger side (R32 conversion), I can make one but I just thought I'd check VW didn't already make one....Anyone? :shrug:

Do it yourself you lazy git. Work off the Christmas pud in advance :D

So they are no longer heated?

Oh right, sorry I didn't realise it didn't need one! An extra silencer then, although the packing won't last long up the front it'll still help.

Put a hi-flow CAT's in, the CAT's absorb a lot of the low frequency noise, the'll also be there during the MOT...

sorry to hear that mate, just what you need for christmas eh...

Come on then Pete, what's it like fella? :D

I'm looking for a cheap Mk2.

Oh and make sure you ask for a nice tight thread cut.

No using stainless threads on stainless is actually prettey bad too becuase the the threads pick up, unless you use an anti gauling paste which on a strut would be hard to keep in place. I would reccomend using a molybdenum disulphide modified nylon (Nylatron GS you can get from RS) or similar ones made, take a strut down to your local machine shop and ask them to make some up, they will need to be at least 12mm though to increase the thread engagement as it is a softer material (or maybe not actually depending on what grade aluminium they have used!), on the top one it could run up the inside of the spring if you wanted. Get the outside knurled and you'd probably no longer need to use spanners on them, as the lubricating qualities of the stuff are brilliant. When you get them made though, get them to put a 4mm grub screw hole in on the lock ring, and use a long grub screw against the strut just for peace of mind.

Ahhhh I hate it when that stuff happens :mad2: However there may be a cheap fix, I've done it on my wife's car after it was keyed and you CANNOT see where the mark was. It all depends on how deep the scratch is, and if it has gone through the blue basecoat underneath. There is an easy test, wet it with water, and see if the 'whiteness' just about disappears, for a more realistic test get a can of lacquer and spray it along the scratch as look for the same. If it doesn't, bad luck it's off to the body shop.... If it does, they get off to halfords, and get a touch up tin of clear lacquer, some wet and dry 1200 sandpaper, and a tube of rubbing compound. Shouldn't cost much more than a tenner. Get a rubber sanding block too if you don't have one. Give the door a good clean, and then gently sand along the scratch area with your finger, doesn't matter if you stray a bit..Just enough to matt the paint finish and key in the surface. Get the lacquer and paint a fine line along the scratch, do this once a day, until it looks like the scratch is gone, and the laquer is nice and proud of the surface, if it looks borderline than just put another layer on. Leave it for a week or two in this cold weather for the laquer to 'sink' as all the solvents evaporate out of it. Then, with a sanding block (very important) and some cold soapy water (soap is important too) gently sand the laquer flat to the door paintwork. With a damp cloth and a squirt of rubbing compound rub all the sanding marks out. This is hard elbow grease time btw if you've sanded a large area! As the rubbing compound breaks down it gets finer, giving a glossier finish to the paint, so don't just keep adding new all the time, rub hard and get the panel warm helps. If you cock it up, off to the bodyshop and what have you lost for trying, a few quid and a hour or so of your time. :shrug:

Unfortunately that is what happens when bare stainless steel meets bare aluminium (galvanic corrosion), that's REALLY bad engineering going on there, very dangerous...considering a suspension strut is just about the worse place you can mix metals- it's in an open air environment where water and salt are being sprayed onto it. The platforms aren't even hard anodized to help prevent metal to metal contact... KW I believe get round it by using a composite platform, although I've never seen them. You should complain to them, maybe threaten them with trading standards.

Does anyone know which Bosch ABS system the Corrado uses? I'm talking about the later one with the traction control. I'm thinking it's the ABS 2E but I can't get to my car to be sure, anyone?

Mine was fine until I got to 90k, since then it has slowly been trying to self destruct...... In general terms, yes.

What does the tyre say? eg 205/45/16 would be a 16" rim, 205/50/15 would be a 15" rim, the last number being the size your wheel is. :D

The idea is to get the engine warm as quickly as possible but not put it under any great stress, it takes a long time for the engine to warm up when it's just sat there not under any load at all. It also doesn't do the CAT any good, but on modern engines there is often a air flap allowing blown air onto the CAT to get it hotter quickly....