sankysvr6

Not sure which multi connector you mean Can you check if you continuity from the module pin8 to VSS on the gear box. Might be quicker and easier to do first. With everything plugged in as it should be

Yeah try the module, but also trace the wire from the module pin8 to the fusebox W/1. If you have continuity I guess you have T43 fitted. Or see if you can find where that wire goes form the module, post a picture of it if you find it. Cable tracer, you attach one wire to a toner that your looking for. Then wave a wand around the wiring looms to try and follow where it goes, so that you can find the other end.

Okay, this how i think it works according to the diagram. VSS --> Fusebox G1/11 Fusebox G1/11 -->Fusebox U2/2 Fusebox U2/2 --> Dash loom T28/21 Dash loom T28/27 --> Fusebox U1/11 Fusebox W/1 --> T43? T43? --> Module This is how it should trace out, just not sure what T43 is. It's some kind of terminal, I've got cable tracer at home that you could borrow.

What year is your motor, and is mileage counter digital?

So does the wire from Pin 8 on the module go the VSS on top of the gearbox, or the wiring loom on the instrument cluster? Also what colour is the wire on Pin8 The reason I ask is I am myself a bit confused looking at the diagram to where it goes. But hopefully we can work through it.

Have you metered the wire from the VSS to the spoiler module? Pin 8 0n the module.

Can somebody tell me if my top mounts are dead [ATTACH]81299[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]81300[/ATTACH]

Smoke bomb is a good idea. Wayne, you only want to do jobs once if you can help it. Well that's the rule i try and go by. So if your going to fit the moonroof just wait to do all the checks then.

Have good one Sean, hope you will be still visiting the forum from time to time

No sorry no update from the supplier, I will get on it after the school holidays

Spent this afternoon cleaning the car. [ATTACH]81271[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81272[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81273[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81274[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81275[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81276[/ATTACH][ATTACH]81277[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]81278[/ATTACH] Phone pics not doing it justice

Oil pressure gauge issues fixed (please read my post in the technical section) Rear fog lights fixed, was just a bad connection. I've also removed the blank from the passenger side. So there are 2 fog lights now.

Agree with that, you either need to be a bit savy with the spanners so you can do some of the basics. Or have deep pockets to pay the labour costs.

Gutted to read about your subframe issues, hopefully you will get it sorted soon.

So ordered another sender from VW Heritage which is meant to be the equivalent part, but it's still a normally closed contact for the WK connection. So what I've done is the following, I've moved the wire from the side of the head which i think is for low pressure and attached it to the sender. This will keep the oil light happy as when the pressure rises the light will go out. I've also moved the yellow wire from top of the filter housing which was for the buzzer to the side of the head and also replaced the sender with the high pressure sender which was on the filter housing originally. So my thinking is if the pressure from the head, which also feed the charger falls bellow 1.4 bar at 2000 rpm it will break the circuit and sound the buzzer. Does this sound okay, as by doing this everythin looks factory with just a couple of extended wires.

Duh!!

Thanks Chris, Checked a few RR videos and the engine does bounce about quite a bit like you said, so think my videos of me lifting the engine are a bit irrelevant now. Chees Wayne, hopefully it will be all done by then or at least I'll know if there is anything up with it.

Okay removed all the bolts for the starter motor and the holder for the front mount thing. All is okay, so I think it's safe to rule the front mounts out. Met up with Vag Hag, this evening, and he gave the engine a quick shake, and reckons the mounts are okay. It's booked into the garage this Monday coming, so will see what they say.

Okay I've found the bolts you mean Top bolt [ATTACH]81266[/ATTACH] Bottom bolt [ATTACH]81267[/ATTACH] If remove the top bolt only off the engine mount, and I jack the engine up. Shouldn't the engine lift up from the mount so? [ATTACH]81268[/ATTACH]

I take it the differences are for the type of bonnet? If so I need one for a late style bonnet. Can you let me know how much you would like for one, posted. VagHag, do you have a late style bonnet stay? It might be quicker and easier to pick up from IKEA if that's okay with you. Also it's a wanted add, so I guess it doesn't matter who posts up first. I just want one soon as, at the best price and the most convenient. Please let me know if this not going by the rules.

Thanks for the tip Jim, that's not the reason I need one. And you don't want to know why I need one. I already feel like a fool, but **** happens

Anyone got a decent looking Corrado bonnet stay for sale?

So I've taken things off to check the front engine mount, it looks okay but I'm not 100% sure. [ATTACH]81264[/ATTACH] When I lift the engine from the Sump with a jack it's lifting about 10mm. How is the front mount bracket secured to the engine? Also is there meant to be this much movement in the top of the strut, when the wheels are off the ground. This is on both sides.

Okay got few things to check, so will go over these and report back. Here is a link to a video of the engine moving, I've put it into 1st gear and lifting the clutch.

I've looked at the gearbox bracket, and it looks okay so don't think that's my problem. The wheel bolts are all new and fitted by me, but will check them again. Would worn cross member bushes cause this? And how difficult are they to change.