sankysvr6

Already expressed interest earlier in the post, just wasn't sure which one at the time. But can you put my name down for a VR6, No Logo Thanks

Can I put name down for this please. I have just my name down on the CCGB forum.

Here is tear down of the ignition switch, if anyone is interested. I would check any new switches for continuity between terminal 30 and S. You should only have continuity at these terminals when the key is pushed in, mine had continuity all the time as the contact had come off the black pole.

A quick update on this problem. Took the ignition switch out today and metered the wires at the ISO connector between the switched positive and positive, and there was no continuity. So that was good, metered the continuity on the actual switch between 'S' and '30' and its showing as a dead short. So took the switch apart out of curiosity and there was a metal contact there that is meant to be attached to the plastic push thing, which wasn't attached. It was just sitting there in the switch, I've managed to reattach it back on to the plastic thing and put everything back together in the switch. Just need to check it again with meter. I've also bought a new switch as I don't really want to fit the same switch again, and for what it cost I think will better.

What is the difference between the G60and VR6 liner? Is it that one is for the late bonnets and one is for the early bonnets? I would also like to put my name down for one, with no logo. Will confirm which one once i have a look at my bonnet tonight.

You can buy Beru ones from ECP or AVS Not heard of Mapco, but a quick Google search came up with this. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-211545.html

I personally would want to know who the manufacture of this part is. Also if you cant stretch to the OE part, I would buy at least a Beru one.

Can anyone tell me if they have a relay fitted in position 9, and what number they have on the relay. Didn't want to start a new thread, as this could be to do with my switched positive problem.

Thats bad news, hope you can you get all sorted soon.

Photos!!

Try posting a pic of the damage, you probably will get a better response from some the experts on here that way. Other thing, would be to speak to Brain at Jabbasport and see if he can give you any advice.

Thanks All, I will take a look at the switch see what's what. Rado20vT, Couldnt you have just moved the brown/red wire to the 'S' position on the ignition switch?

Saw this today

Yeah a picture might help, thanks ---------- Post added at 7:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:18 PM ---------- Do you where the ISO connecter plugs in the car loom? ---------- Post added at 7:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:20 PM ---------- Would that have caused the some of the electrics not work. Going to take it all apart have another look, also try and get the glove box out.

Agree, get a meter on it to make sure you have the 12V there. If you need any soldering, just end up and i'll sort it out for you.

I take it nobody else has come across this issue before then? Might have to look to see if i can find where the other end of the ISO goes, unless anyone knows. Would rather have the wiring all correct and present on the car then chopping it just yet.

Mats are from the dealers, they aren't cheap some where around £50 for the set. If you need the part number let me know and i'll dig it out for you.

It's very easily done, I've spent nearly close to 1k in the 5 weeks since I've had the car. Going to try and calm the sendings down if I can. All the jobs I have done so far, are just preventive measures. Lol

I would take a look at the oil cap, see if you have any mayo on the cap. Might be your head gasket. Also check the foot wells for dampness at the passenger and driver side, could also be your heater matrix. If none of these are the problems, top the water up and park the car up on some clean cardboard overnight and have look in the morning for damp patches. Good luck with it, hope its nothing serious.

Is that on the original engine and gearbox? That's done we'll if it is, we'll done for keeping up with it and not throwing in the towel.

So time for a little update. One of the jobs on the to-do list was the rocker cover gasket, as it looks like it has been leaking down one side for a very long time. I ordered 2 gaskets, one from GSF (victor reinz) and one from AVS (erling). After doing some reading about the 2 gaskets, it seemed the US guys prefer the (vr) one and the UK people prefer the (erling) one. Both gaskets were slightly different with each other, but the erling one was the same as the one i had taken off. So fitted that one. You can see it looking wet, behind the alternator in the picture bellow. Cover off All mating surfaces cleaned and dried, and ready for new gasket. All back in place, and seems to be all dry after letting the engine run for awhile. The next job on the list was to change the mismatch HT leads, ordered a nice set BERU one from AVS Next on the to do list was to have the supercharger rebuilt, not only to ensure everything was running right. But also for a peace mind, so booked it in at Jabbasport and made the trip down last Thursday. After speaking to Brain At Jabba, about the crank pulley bolt, I was advised to have it changed just like this forum has said. He also said that I should change the timing belt, as it will need to come to get the bolt off the pulley anyway. So had that done as well, so hopefully now it should be all pretty much bullet proof this side. LOL The guys at Jabba gave a great service and a warm welcome, even dropped me off at the railway station and collected me on Saturday. As part of the service, would use these guys more if they were a bit closer. So just a few pics of the charger after the rebuild. Brian did comment on how clean the charger was prior to its first ever rebuild. Also got some new genuine mats, and G60 grill badge waiting to be fitted. Just waiting on getting all the maintenance jobs out of the way, next on the list are the engine mounts that need changing.

Pete, did you mange to get a new gear knob form the dealers?

Can the wires on the ignition switch be put on wrong? As i know the ignition switch has been changed in the past. Or is it just one big plug, on the back of the ignition switch.

Its not problem, all inputs help. I am starting to think that standard wiring on the G60 doesn't have switched positive on the ISO connector, and i have to feed one in my self by tapping the wiring loom somewhere. As i have read other post on the net with the same problem. Anyone with a 92 or earlier corrado had this problem, when fitting a new stereo. Don't really want to tap in the original loom unless i have to.

My problem is there is no switched live, on any of the cars ISO connector. According to the wiring diagrams i have found on the net, the brown/red is meant to be switched positive. I have checked all the wires on the ISO connector, with multimeter. Anyone know where the other end of ISO connector goes?