Henny

samm_cvr6, probably will do when I get back... 8)

tried my 40mm offset Borbet C wheels over the Brembo calipers with my 11mm spacers... THEY FIT! 8) Got a bloke making me 4 more spacers and will be taking 10 of my wheels to TopMarques for refurbishment on Saturday... 8)

:silent:

well, Mine's an SNS chip that's then had the map re-written to be spot on for my somewhat non-standard engine, yet keep SNS's no-lag coding too... 8) Basically it means that the advance and fuelling are EXACTLY right for YOUR engine rather than having been set up for another car that has very similar spec to yours... If you've not really gone to town on your engine, then I'd probably be happy with a standard SNS chip, however if you've done LOTS to it then it's worth getting the RR remap done to ensure you're getting the max out of your engine without risking any damage to it from running lean... 8) Lets put it this way, the drive BACK from the rolling road with the new map left me with face ache for a good few days from all the inane grinning I was doing, where the drive TO the rolling road with the stock SNS chip just put a mild smile on my face... ;) :lol: I must point out that the SNS chip I had was an "off the shelf" one and not one that Bilal had specc'd for my engine as it was always the plan to get the map done by Wayne on the rollers so it's not entirely a fair comparison... 8)

there may be a ring going to NZ with me, but that's only for the trip to Fiji after we've done the tour of NZ... ;)

phone 'em... Personally, I think their website sucks ;) :lol:

Roger Blassberg, yup, exactly that... 8)

if you can't be arsed to put in a relay, you don't have to... ;) All you need to do is to put on 2 male spade terminals onto the wires to the new fan and plug it into the original fan connector, one into the earth and the other into the wire which is the +ve for the low speed. This will mean that your fan will come on flat out as soon as the low speed trigger temp is reached, and will stay on until it goes below that temp again... 8) Easy as pie... 8) Mounting it is a little more tricky... I used some metal holed strips (looks like meccano!) and cable ties to hold mine in place with the ends of the strips held onto the radiator by the original 4 screws which held on the old fan shroud... Sounds a little like a bodge, but is actually very sturdy, allows some flexibility, and, if done nicely, looks good too... ;) 8)

I bought a 12" one (DCSL 12) from Think-Auto and it's knocked the running temps RIGHT down... it's also a shed load smaller thickness than the original one and tidies the bay up LOTS... 8) It's only a single speed, so I've wired it up via a relay to come on flat out as soon as the low temp comes on, although I may re-wire it soon via a large resistor to give me the 2 speeds again... 8) I didn't bother with their relay kits, I just used a normal 15A relay from a local motorfactors and the original radiator thermo switch which kept the costs down lots... ;)

If anyone can get in on this, I seriously suggest you get involved! Bruntingthorpe is a RIGHT laugh and will allow you to learn more about your cars handling and performance than you can ever hope to do on a public road... 8) Just watch out that you don't drive too close up behind another car at speed as there's quite a few small stones on the tarmac that can get flicked up to damage your paint... ;)

depends what it is... If it's the bearings you may be able to replace them which shouldn't be too expensive, or you may have to replace the whole alternator which will cost a bit more...

about 7pm last night, Blue VR6 Storm on 17" wheels in Congleton at the Rood Hill traffic lights... Seen it about a couple of times now with a blonde lady driving it... Also saw a silver VR with the plate "SL 5" in Wilmslow on Monday morning... Anyone here?

OK, I've been away from this forum for a week and look what happens... Well, seeing as how J-DUB now owes me a couple of hundred quid in total since I bought her back from the insurance company and is sat there with no engine/gearbox I'm SERIOUSLY thinking about putting in a TDI and using her as my commuting car... I've got H-YYU with a 250ish BHP G60 petrol engine if I want something with stupid performance, but running that to Manchester and back everyday is: a) not doing the engine any favours b) not doing my wallet any favours c) not doing my insurance costs any favours d) not going to do my clean drivers licence any favours when I get bored on the motorway and start playing silly buggers with the Porsches etc... :twisted: :lol: A TDI in a Corrado makes perfect sense to me, I love the handling, comfort levels and looks of a Corrado, but want something a little more economical... for less than £2K I can have just that... 40MPG+ and around 170bhp/250Lb/Ft Keep watching folks, the project starts when I get back from New Zealand! :twisted: 8)

GazzaG60, that's kinda true, problem is try finding someone who'll do a full on tuneup on the road... you're looking at booking somewhere like Bruntingthorpe for that kinda thing... :|

take the drive belt off it and check it for movement on the bearings (up/down, left/right and in/out)... could be a bearing on it's way out... :|

if you still have a chin spoiler on, you need to remove all of the bolts that hold that on too as they go through the lower front subframe panel and will stop the bumper from coming off too... ;) My plastic Reiger RS4 bumper was rivited onto the original ironwork behind the fogs/indicators and then I used some self tappers through the wheel arch liners to hold it up there too. I never got around to spraying it up (sold in instead) but when it was going to be sprayed, I was going to sikaflex the ironwork all around where it touched the plastic to hold it even more securely... It was pretty secure as it was though, as I managed a GPS clocked 139MPH without it coming loose! :lol:

if you're going to GSF, get the brembo OE disks... IIRC they're on offer this week too... 8) The pad wear indicator turns on the handbrake warning light (which is actually used for handbrake, pads low and fluid low warnings!)... quickest way of telling if you've got 'em or not is to look behind the wheel and see if there's any wiring there... if you have ABS you're looking for 2 sets of cables behind the wheel + the brake flexy, if not, you're only looking for a single cable and flexy. If there's just a flexy, you've not got brake wear sensors or ABS... 8) Even if you DO have wear indicators, you can still use normal pads, you just won't get a warning when your pads are getting low... ;)

when I did my conversion on J-DUB I found I had the same problem as you're describing... turns out that the wiring to the fan was only getting 9V under load (shows 12V on a multimeter when disconnected though!) I made up a loom similar to one of Gav's headlamp looms to stick in a nice fat power supply to the fan and haven't had any problems since... 8) Also, you don't want to be shorting out the connector onto the FAN, you want to be shorting out the connector onto the radiator switch! I'm hoping you've just typed that wrong else you've almost certainly blown the fuse by now! :|

CoxyLaad, it only robs power 'cos you've got to physically drive the thing... thing is once you start driving it, it ADDS power so it's all pretty irrelevent anyway... it's only the efficiency which is important. 8)

There's actually 4 different boot carpets... (not including different colours) :| Early 12gallon tank flat (space saver) Early 12gallon tank humped (full size spare) Late 15gallon tank small hump (space saver) Late 15gallon tank Large hump (full size spare)

nick48480, the red illumination on mine matches my dash too... ;) That does look very similar to the Reiger one... did it come with the gaitor too? That was the main reason I got one... I was going to go OE, but at £20 for the knob and about £30 for a decent leather gator, the Reiger one worked out too close in price to be ignored! 8)

dubster82, spot on mate... When I bought J-DUB I knocked the mirror off by accident (don't ask :lol: ) and tried for ages to stick it back on... then I realised that the metal bit twists out of the back of the mount. :roll: :oops: I then used J-B weld to attach the metal bit (after a LOT of careful measuring and marking of the exact position it needed to be in!) to the windscreen and left it taped on for a week to harden. The mirror can then be twisted back onto the mount as it should be from the factory.... 8)

I'm pretty certain that Top Marques in Stoke do 'em... 8) I'll be dropping off another 10 wheels there this weekend for 'em to refurbish... kinda gives you a hint that I rate their work... :lol: 8)

try http://www.chipwizards.co.uk 8) Wayne Schofield's the bloke behind the company and he roams around the country custom writing maps for cars on other companies rolling roads... He did the chip for J-DUB and has done chips for Gav (H100VW) in the past too... at one point he had the proud claim to fame that he'd written more of the ECU chips running in the Porsche cup than Porsche had! That's gotta be a good endorsement! :lol: 8)

whiteee, The barrels may be the same as a MKII golf for the door locks, but as Woody says, it's easier to get the locks from VAG and have them made up to your key... ;) The barrels are available seperately for doors and glove box, but you need to buy a complete boot lock and it's way easier to buy and fit the complete steering lock mounting and barrel in one go as there's then no drilling required and you're left with a secure steering lock rather than one you can simply stick a screwdriver into a hole to pull the lock out of... :|