Henny

VR6 in a grey looking colour (difficult to tell 'cos it was under a yellow streetlamp) in a pub carpark in Fallowfield (Manchester) last night between 10 and 11:30 (the two times I went past....) looked nice... 8)

8)

fitted my Corrado-forum and Dubforce.net stickers to H-YYU... 8)

I'll echo what Bally and corradowales said.... :crazyeyes: 8) Looking really nice... 8)

oh, you may also want to get new bolts which hold the calipers on as the old ones can get a little crappy with age...

olly elworthy, that's exactly the kinda answer I was after... 8) The racks I have will have new ends on when they're fitted to the car, so it sounds like I could have a go-er! 8)

yeah, mine used to tramline on the 17x7" wheels it came with, but it's much better on the 16x7.5" that it now runs on... J-DUB suffered a little more on the same 16" wheels when I was running 11mm spacers on the front wheels giving me an offset of 19mm... But then, she was also running LOTS of camber which made her a little twitchy but meant that she turned in VERY quickly! :twisted: 8) I have no idea what the offset of the 17s was though, but they do sit in the arches A LOT further than the 30offset 16s do...

Right, having just done this conversion AGAIN (this time to H-YYU) I can confirm the following: You need: A pair of MKIV rear calipers (duh! :lol: ) Standard Corrado rear disks (use the ones that are already fitted if they're good, if not buy rear wheel bearings too! ;) ) A pair of Goodridge MKII to MKIV conversion hoses (which DO come with washers AND banjo bolts) A set of MKII, MKIII or MKIV rear pads (they'll all fit with no problems, I've now used all of these in them and they're fine) Standard Corrado handbrake cables. It's simply a case of swapping the calipers over and changing the flexy hoses... It REALLY IS that simple!!!! 8)

can I just chip in that Dension kit is VERY well made... :) 8)

the plastic "sensor which isn't" is a blanking plug for a sensor that's used in the American models for their exhaust emissions stuff... VW simply put in a blank version to keep the engine bay looking tidy and to stop people getting worried by finding multiplugs that were unplugged... ;) No idea about the other bit though, get a pic up and you'll probably get more help... ;)

OK, I don't have aircon on either of my G60s (yet ;) ) but from what you've said, it does sound like the pulley is the fault. IIRC it's VERY possible that the pulley IS engaged via and electro-magnetically operated clutch system within that pulley so it's looking very possible that this pulley's clutch has given up the ghost and seized up... If you log into http://www.dubforce.net you'll find a load of people over there with Golf G60s who may be able to help a little more and may even have the part you need for sale... ;)

CaiosG60 PWR, I'm not sure on that figure for the lysholm there... :? If it's creating boost/compressing air, then it's gonna be creating friction, drag and therefore will need a rotational force to drive it and if a lysholm can boost as much as claimed (which I have no reason to doubt having seen Scruffydubber's move at Bruntingthorpe!) then there's some serious work going on there which is gonna use more than a couple of BHP to drive it! Bear in mind that an Alternator takes about 5BHP to drive it when just powering the engine... ;)

I'll be doing some photos of what needs doing shortly when I swap the engine over from J-DUB into H-YYU... ;)

ummm, according to the history I got with H-YYU, she's not had a clutch done yet and is on 160K! It's starting to get a little juddery though... :|

Demon tweeks sells stick on head shielding.... it's VERY good... (got quite a bit of it on my engine... ;) )

The engine compression change to make it suitable for running a G60 costs you about 40bhp (off a standard 1.8 GTI engine) meaning that if you take off the charger, you'll only have about 75bhp to play with... The g-lader supposedly costs 25BHP to drive it, taking that down to 50BHP, but you get out around 160BHP in total when the two are put together... Just shows that the G-Lader is pretty efficient... 8) Screw types can provide more boost that a G-lader and are easier to manufacture, but IIRC the G-lader is more efficient when you do the proper maths... 8)

cam belt and tensioner should cost you under £40 for the parts (even if you go to VAG IIRC!) and it's about a 90 minute job at a proper garage... 8)

with a GOLF G60 intercooler, you only need to flatten down the passengerside lower slam panel retaining lug (normally has a bolt in it) so that it'll clear the intercooler by the battery and to file off the HUGE fin type thing on the front of the intercooler to get it to fit into a corrado... It's dead easy to do... Personally, I'd advise taking out the slam panel so that you can line it up nicely and see where it's making contact and in need of the intercooler filing/grinding back... 8)

hurt? yes... go straight through your rib cage and kill you? Not as likely... :| Saying that, if you want safety, go buy a new ENCAP 5* rated car... ;)

I've had 15, 16 and 17" wheels on my grey G60... 15s were the best for comfort and acceleration (much lighter) The 17s made the car less responsive and the ride much harsher. The 16s are a nice compromise between looks, ride and handling... I'll be sticking with my 16s from now on... 8)

I'm fairly certain that the G60/VR6 pumps run at 4.5 bar...

If you haven't got access to a ramp or pit, I suggest that you don't attempt this job... It's an utter git to do with the car only on Axle stands...

Woah.... Looks exactly like J-DUB did when I first got her... :crazyeyes: (only yours has better paint :lol: ) Nice... 8)

I'm not sure on the brake pipe diameter, but 8mm sounds a little on the large side... :| I did the brake pipes at my mates garage on J-DUB when I first got her (while re-doing the rear axle bushes). It's not difficult to do, you just have to make sure that you use a GOOD pipe flaring tool (the £20 DRAPER ones are utter crap, you need one that clamps into a vice and has a good length handle on it to pull the flare in properly...) you also need a decent pipe cutter, DO NOT USE A HACKSAW! The ends of the pipe MUST be square else the flare won't be uniform and may give up or leak under stress meaning that your brakes will fail... :| Does your car have ABS? If it does, you need to be VERY careful that you don't run the car out of brake fluid else you'll have shed loads of trouble bleeding the ABS pump afterwards... To actually make up the brake pipes, you need to be able to get under the car with the coil of pipe that you've bought and try to copy the shape of the pipe completely before you cut it and then add the ends and flare the tips... Pipe ends and coils of copper brake pipe can be bought from good local car spares places or motor factors for not a lot of cash at all... 8) Seriously, if you have ANY doubts about this, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT... the results of getting it wrong just aren't worth it... :|

I dremmelled mine.... I used carbide paper tubes on a rubber shaft and it did it in no time whatsover... 8)