Henny

parts are under £40 (inc tensioner) and it should take under 90minutes in a pro garage... 8) Replacement interval is listed as 40K, but inspect at 20K and every 10K afterwards 8)

andy, yup, as long as pistons haven't met valves then there won't be any damage... it's only if you go more than one tooth, or rev the knackers off it with it one tooth out, that you'll end up with valve/piston contact and mechanical damage... A compression test will tell you that straight away... 8)

check you main earth strap on the battery and also the earth points by the fuse box. Both of the gauges you mention work on resistive senders giving different resistances compared with an earth. If that earth (or the main one) is cruddy then your gauges are gonna be a mile out and start doing all sorts of odd things... Well, that's where I'd start anyway... ;)

just needs a set of primer grey racing stripes and I'd be happy to call that my own... 8) Not keen on the wheels though...

looks like a good job... 8)

I'm pretty sure that most motor factors sell 'em... they're a pretty standard part... 8)

In J-DUB I had a set of JBL components in the front and a pair of standard fit 6x4 two way JBLs in the rear with a sub in the boot... I found that most of the time I had the 6x4s turned RIGHT down so that they were almost inaudiable in the front... when I got H-YYU I decided I couldn't be arsed with the rears and I actually prefer the sound, and that's with a crappy pair of Kenwood 6" dual cone speakers 'cos I've not fitted my new MB Quarts yet... 8) Horses for courses... try it and see what you think

Dr Forinor, call Vince at stealth and he'll sort it for you (although it's not exactly a cheap job... :| )

Car audio is a bit of a black art 'cos of all the reflections and noise and stuff within a car... I'm still not that hot on what works and what doesn't within a car, but being a broadcast engineer in charge of 9 studios helps! ;) :lol: Oh, and I run a set of components in the front and just a sub in the rear... ;)

Don't tighten 'em too much! you'll only need to lightly tweak 'em to get rid of the play... any more and you'll over-heat 'em... If you're not sure, get someone who's done it before to sort it for you... /disclaimer... ;)

phasing is to do with if the speaker moves out to make a specific part of the noise of if it moves in towards the housing... using 2 sets of component speakers won't affect your phases as long as you wire 'em up + to + and - to - on all 4 sets... It may make life a little interesting trying to get the sound stage set up nicely though, so don't stick your tweeters in the first position you think of, move 'em around a bit to find the position you prefer... 8) By different speakers, I meant different types of speaker rather than manufacturer... ie, Sub, mid, mid-bass, tweeter. These will work better on amps designed for each kind of speaker rather than getting a sub and a tweeter (extremes for frequency range) powered off a single amp... 8) oh, and I like the Infinity 6500cs speakers... 8)

replacement price = 2x rear bearing sets (£6.75 each) + 2x rear disks (£13.50 each) Total: £40.50... hardly bank breaking, although you may wish to put some new pads in while you're in there which will add another £14.50 8) All prices quoted from GSF invoice infront of me! ;) I'm about to replace the lot 'cos I've got MKIV rear calipers now and the pads and disks looked a bit cruddy while I was in there... 8)

I've got A539s on my 7.5x16" borbets and I like 'em... comfy and grippy too... oh, and they last well too! 8) 215x40 will throw your speedo out a little more too...

:lol:

Bally, yup, that's what I'm getting at... ;) Specialist Amps for different speakers, same amp for same speakers... 8)

8) It only takes a couple of minutes per side... the hardest bit is taking the wheel off/putting it back on again! The only bits you need to replace are the 2 spilt pins which cost about 10p each! 8) I'd advise getting it done sooner rather than later though, as you will be wearing the bearings at an accelerated rate if they're loose... :|

if you're running 4 sets of the same speaker, get a (good make) 4 channel amp which is designed for full range speakers (not one that's a BASS specialist type thing) Why buy 2x2way amps? you're only paying for double the packaging which you're gonna throw away, double the power connectors, casing etc etc etc... The major internals will be the same if it's the same range of amp whether you get 1x4way or 2x2way anyway so it then comes down to how much space you have to mount the things... 8)

just tighten the rear hub nut up slightly to adjust the play out of them... that's the way they're supposed to be adjusted... 8) They ARE the same as the Corrado where the bearing runner is pressed into the disk, but you should be able to adjust it out if it was only an advise note... 8) (just done this on H-YYU after her MOT... ;) )

depends on the make of the amps and what type of speakers you're powering off them... ;)

G-Lader, according to the insurance company who wrote off my G60 in January, the book resale value on a very good condition G60 is just under £3K, selling to a trader you'll loose at least 30% of that, if not closer to 50% meaning that you'll be around the 1500 that Gav suggests... If you're selling, go private or sling it on Ebay... trade in is a BAD idea on an older car and is a very good way to throw money away... :|

yup, V was upto 149, Z was 149+ but it was never specified how much + which is why V,W, and Y were brought in... 8)

yup, that's also true, but they do seize up and if they already have, what's the point in installing another set that may well do the same again when you can install the MKIV ones for a few quid more which won't suffer the same fate? ;) 8)

dr_mat, yup, they do, but they still clog up and fail in the same way as the MKII ones did... the MKIV ones are a completely new mechanism which won't seize up for the reasons the old versions used to... 8)

with yours being such an early car, if I've read that thread on steering racks I started correctly, then it'll have a different number of splines on the steering rack -> column shaft... IMHO you'd be better off trying to get a late MKII 16V Golf one, it's almost certainly gonna be the same as the one on your car now... 8)

oops, that'll be one of those winging it's way over to me, damned Paypal option... :lol: 8) Looks neater than the one I made anyway... 8)