Henny

carefully... (ba-dum-tish....) :lol: I'll get my coat... Erm, dunno, I'd guess that a tooth brush or dremmel with some polishing compound may do the trick... :?

be careful of cheap "pattern" parts, they're not multi-layer and aren't as good as the original one! Price it up at both ECP/GSF and then VAG and GPC... If there's not too much in it, go for the genuine one from VAG or GPC... ;)

I have a feeling that's one of VW's notorious "spare" connectors... :lol: I seem to remember reading that the VR6 has a spare wire there with those colourings on it... Anyone care to back me up please? 8)

yup, that's the fan switch... it's a bit tight in there isn't it... :| Come on guys, what's it like on other peoples VR6s? 8)

yup, that's the ABS pump... leave WELL alone, they're stupidly expensive if they go wrong/get damaged... :|

That's not entirely true, David... If you want to fit a VR6 radiator to a non-VR6 car, you need to drill some holes in the slam panel and insert a captive nut into the slam panel to get it to fit. PhatVR6 had loads of problems fitting his VR6 rad to his 2.0 8V.... :| You're spot on about there being bugger all point in sticking a bigger rad on a valver though... The 16V radiator is multilayered and is one of the most efficient in the VAG range! Get hold of another one the same, kasman21 8)

the forum is a little flakey today and keeps crashing... Odds are that this isn't related though and, as gibber says, Daz has his PM status set to "on holiday..." I'll lock this thread up.

change the coolant temp sensor (for the gauge) odds are it's died...

If you need to LIFT the throttle pedal, then something IS jamming... Get the cable changed and see if that cures it, OH, and don't forget to buy the little rubber O-ring/grommet that the cable attaches to the pedal's lever with, as your old one will be soggy and worn! 8) CCGB discount varies from place to place... it ranges from around 5% upto about 15% depending on how far you can push your luck and how expensive the parts you're buying are... 8)

Can I just ask a simple question? (ok 2, that was one in itself! :roll: :lol: ) Can an Ex member re-join at the AGM and then participate in that same AGM? I've tried several times over the last 3 years to join VWCCGB with no success which have mainly been down to not being able to get hold of the form from the website, but also have been down to "lost letters" in the post (even though they have a return address on 'em)... I'm not pointing any fingers, laying any blame or angry about this, I just want it sorting out so that other new members can join easily... 8) I DO want to help with CCGB, and anyone doubting my commitment to helping Corrados and their owners in general can happily argue with the countless people I've helped on this very forum over the time I've been here, both before and after Andi asked me to become a Mod. The only problem I've had with CCGB has been in attempting to re-join... The only reason I let my original membership lapse was because I wrote off my first Corrado and couldn't afford another for 3 years or so. As soon as I bought J-DUB, I attempted to re-join which I have failed to manage to do ever since... If I can join at, and then participate in the AGM, then I will do my damnedest to get down there and join in, to put any points accross, and to correct any dis/mis-information which may be flung about regarding the private threads that were visible during the recent CF hack, IF, and ONLY IF, it is nessessary to do that. I may just sit there being quiet and enjoying a positive AGM while being impressed with what has been going on behind the scenes of CCGB... 8) HiAsAKite, I'm with you 100% on the electronic comms channel being an Extension, not a replacement... you only have to look at what CGTI have managed to do with their club and the excellent flyers, news letters and "bonus" material that they send out digitally to see what is possible on top of the more traditional paper media... 8)

just get an oil change from VAG, and get the stamp. Then get a decent specialist to do a proper service... ;) 8)

touché... :lol:

The pipes go in the order: feed, breather, return

depends what it is that's gone wrong... If the throttle is jamming, then the pedal won't return, same goes if the cable is sticking, so let us know exactly what happens with the pedal as this is critical to working out what's going wrong... After that, disconnect the throttle cable (with the engine switched off! :lol: ) and move the throttle lever by hand. See if the lever returns freely or not. If not, then it could well be jamming and will need the throttle body removing and checking out to find out what's wrong with it... If the lever feels fine, then sling in a new throttle cable... They're not expensive and are simple to fit (even JimsG60 managed it on his car! ;) ) Other things to check are the wiring connector on the back of the throttle body. If this (or the wiring to it) is damaged, then the engine won't know when the engine's at idle and it'll rev erratically, and idle high, but shouldn't fly off around to redline... :| Good luck!

Phil K, eye, that's a good suggestion... 8) The Hazard switch is often overlooked in problems such as this...

those ones he's selling don't have a sunroof switch... read it carefully... ;) The interior light has permanent live, ignition live, earth and door switch connections (he mentions 4 wires). Only the ignition live isn't on the existing interior light, but you may be able to pick that up from your sunroof power supply. No idea if it'd fit or not... it may not be deep enough (from windscreen to sunroof) to cover the hole in the headlining under the original unit... :|

the new SNS chips have been developed to run with the standard 3.0FPR. If it's idling badly, making the exhaust glow etc, you don't need a re-map, you need it re-timing and probably need a new 100cm ECU to throttle vavuum pipe! :|

I can compete with KWs of power... 'cos one of my TXs has several KWs of power! :lol: :twisted: anyway, :oops: enough :offtopic: :lol:

If it's rear gearbox mount, drive shaft against chassis member/subframe. If it's rear engine mount, then it'll be inner CV joint against the heat shield or possibly the drive shaft/counter weight against the subframe... It's a bit of a dodgy area... it could be fine, but unless you know EXACTLY what's rubbing and where, it's impossible to say that it won't do any damage... :|

after a shed load of experimentation, I run 36 front and 31 rear on my G60 with 205,45,16 Yoko A539s on 7.5J wheels. Nice even wear, no skittering in the wet (well, as little as you can get in a G60 with lead feet! ;) :twisted: :lol: ) and corners nicely too...

LOTS of things that are fun are illegal in this country... doesn't mean that we don't all do some of them... ;) :twisted: (being drunk in public is illegal for example!) Anyway, yup, you're unlikely to get caught if the unit is very low power, but the problem is that some of these units are of a higher transmission power than they may appear due to being cheap and slightly uncalibrated and it'll only take one person to complain to Ofcom to see you slapped with a large fine. I'm not saying it's gonna happen (it probably won't) but I wanted to make sure that people know that the possibility is there... 8)

high milage rados? I've got one with 157Kmiles (and rising rapidly!) on it and another with almost 250K on it! :lol: As long as they've been well looked after, milage isn't as important as history.

ANYTHING which freely transmits on a frequency which can be picked up by domestic car radios is illegal within the UK, no matter how low power it may be, unless you have a suitable licence to cover its use. The only way that you can make a device appear on a radio frequency is to put in a modulator into the aerial cable so that you're not transmitting the signal, mearly injecting it straight into the back of your car radio. (I'm a broadcast engineer by trade.*edit* and one who appears to type slowly today! :lol: )

Audiosupreme, yup, they're good, but they're also illegal to use in this country and make you liable to a fine of upto £10,000!

nope, if it's reading out, then the pipe has come off or become damaged on the back of the instrument clocks, or the capacitors have gone as Kongo suggests. This may also be affecting the way the engine runs slightly too if it's the pipe. It's not difficult to get the clocks out, and as long as you're careful when taking off the blanking covers in the lower corners of the dash, there's little chance of breaking anything else while removing them... As for the repair. If it's just the pipe has come loose, then it's a plug it back in and stick it all back together jobbie... If it's not that, then it could well need some soldering knowledge to fix it... :| Good luck! 8)