Henny

trap 'em in your door at the top front and then under the bonnet between the wipers... there should be enough give in the seals not to damage the cables... 8)

keep an eye on Ebay for Lockwood ones... I've got a set on mine and they ain't gone walkies yet! ;) :D They did confuse the hell outta the garage when I took her in to get one of the tyres re-sealed as it was leaking though! :D :lol: :twisted: Oh, and they also come with a funky little VW emblem you can stick onto 'em too... 8)

jimsG60, yup, Leamington it is! :) BR Motorsport 8a Berrington Rd., Sydenham Ind. Estate Leamington Spa Warks CV31 1NB 8) However, IIRC they send the chargers off to Jabba to rebuild 'em... :| Jabba won't EVER be getting any more trade from me 'cos of their aftersales and bearing replacement policy... They didn't want to know when I called them to tell them about the dead bearings in my charger which had only done 14K miles in the 14 months since it's stage 4 rebuild, and then I found out that they only replace bearings "when they need to"... When the f%~$ is that? if it's in bits and you're rebuilding it, then I think you should change ALL the seals and ALL the bearings no matter if they're looking perfect or not! what's the point in rebuilding it if you're gonna leave old bits inside it along with the new ones?!? :roll: [/rant] Personally, my charger would be sent to either Pitstop/G-Werks or JMRacing no matter how far it is away from home.... 8) Both have excellent reputations and excellent service levels and have been a pleasure to deal with during the time I've been doing my engine work... 8) I know that G-Tuned also does 'charger rebuilds but I can't comment on their quality or the service level/quality as I've not used them... It'd still be worth talking to them to see what they say though so you can gauge your own opinions... 8)

I'll lock this thread then... 8)

sounds like you have a vacuum leak which is stopping the servo from working properly... Check all the vacuum pipes especially the solid plastic one with the valve in it which feeds the vacuum to the Servo 8)

the fuel consumption will only get worse if you fit the red tops and not the corresponding chip... If you fit a suitable chip, the only time the fuel consumption will be different is when you are using the extra power that the chip and injectors release! :) I actually get BETTER fuel economy out of my Corrado now that I've modded it lots than I got as standard as long as I take it easy... although, if I hammer it, I can get the MPG down into low single figures! :? :lol: SNS Chip + Pulley + red tops + 3.5 FPR = fun! :)

I don't like the Oettinger grill, but the bumper and side skirts aren't bad at all... 8) I'm another one of the people who like the look of BBS wheels, but wouldn't want 'em 'cos they're WAY too much hassle... also thinking that they're starting to get a bit common too... :| The bumper looks very much like the one that's on J-DUB at the moment which I'm still not too sure of.... :?

how do we get a link to this place put into that article?!? ;) :lol: (and Jabbasport's details removed! ;) :twisted: )

dunno about the windscreen, sorry, but I'd change the gear oil if I were you and see if that makes a difference... 8)

Have you got a coilpack or a Dizzy? Sounds like a dodgy lead failing as it flexes to me... Could also be a mildly blocked fuel filter starving the engine of fuel...

quit bickering you two! :lol:

you may also want to replace the rear ABS rotor cages too... they're a press fit onto the back of the disk (light press, you can do it by hand) but they have a habbit of rusting onto the old disks so when you get 'em off, they don't press fit back onto the new disks meaning that you loose your ABS 'cos they're not spinning at the same speed as the wheels... :roll: Good news is that they're not expensive... around £20 IIRC for both sides... 8)

If I were you I'd strip down the spoiler mech a little and apply a shed load of white grease to lube it up.... Then use the manual switch to run the spoiler up and down a few times to make sure that there's no rough/tight spots which could cause it to blow the fuse... 8)

...not in the Trafford Park branch they don't... :( :evil:

His name's Paul... 8)

that's the same brake paint I used on my MKIV rear calipers... It's good stuff... nice and thick and coats really well to leave a nice finish... 8) Of course, I didn't need to paint the front Brembos! :-P :lol:

Where did you get yours from Daz? It looked exactly the kinda thing I am after for my MKI project... 8)

garage told me that they had to separate the engine from the box a bit just to be able to get access to those bolts. at least that's how they justified their huge labour charge! Think they may have been pulling a fast one there to be honest... :| I've had the sump off both of the Corrado's I've owned without any major problems (lots of swearing at those two bolts mind, but no problems! ;) ) so I KNOW you can do them on 1.8 16V and G60s without splitting the box and engine... Invest in a good quality 1/4" drive socket set and extension bar and you should be able to get in at it with no problems... 8)

I run 205 45 16s on my Corrado's Borbet C wheels which are 16x7.5, so they'll fit fine... 8)

yup, that's how you change the sump... not too difficult, just watch out for the bolts by the gearbox which are a bit of a sod to get at... ;)

Put the oil cooler where the old intercooler was... should just need a new pair of pipes to make it fit... 8) I've still not dug out the instructions, and I'm about to head off to Malvern, but I'll post 'em up tonight... 8)

just 'cos no-one else has, I'll confirm that the 2 locations on that Photo are correct for the drain and refill/level points on the gearbox.... 8) Oh, and there's also another VW badge on the very end of the gearbox too! :)

Nah, just fed up of Dubwhizz whinging at me that he's not sold it yet... :lol: ;)

630BHP?!?!? Woah Mary! :crazyeyes: that's just a touch of overkill there isn't it?!? 8)

bit like what I've done then Kev? ;) :lol: