Henny

there's a hole in the slam panel halfway along the lamp about an inch and a half from the front... it's down there... ;) :D

'cos X-box/PS2 won't do all the things I want it to do without serious modifications.... putting together a cheap PC is something I can do in a few minutes with stuff I've already got kicking around at home! ;) :lol:

I've got a JMRacing set on my car at the moment, and it's almost identical to the G-Werks/PSD offering... (mine's even anodised in black too!) John can also get them anodised in any colour you wish.... 8) (Woody's got BLUE ones on his that look wicked... :) ) I'm using the standard sprung damper tensioner on my setup at the moment, although I am looking into getting a fixed tensioner as the damper is showing it's age and I don't see the point in replacing it with the same again when there is now no point to it... 8) The quality and finish of John's offering is VERY good... I did have to get my damper machined down as mine was one of the first one's John'd sold since the end of PD Motorsport, and the work on that was well done too... I've read a thread recently saying that the G-Werks/PSD set also now don't need the damper modding, but I've not actually seen their sets in the flesh so I can't comment on their quality except for stating that I'm sure they'll be as good as the JMRacing ones.... Both All 3 of these systems use a rounded toothed belt to ease wear of the belt and to keep the noise levels down to a reasonable level... I've not seen the G-Tuned system other than in the photo in the advert in the for sale section... the only difference I can see is that the guide edges on the pulleys are press fitted on instead of held on with screws like on the JMR and G-Werks/PSD versions. The G-tuned system also appears to use a square toothed belt, *EDIT* This WAS just the photo being deceptive... 8) Hope this helps.... Here's a photo of each system... 8) *edit* corrected info about the G-Tuned belt tooth shape

duncanthemad, I'm with you on this one... 8) My C turned out to have been clocked (by over 120K miles! :crazyeyes: ) and I've had to replace just about all of the mechanical components in the engine bay and most of the brakes and suspension in the 20 months that I've owned it, and I've spent more on it than all of my other cars put together, but I love it to bits and would do it all again 8) My car still turns heads on the street (even though the bodywork needs attention) and is now somewhat faster than people would guess and it keeps me happy when I'm sat in the drivers seat... 8)

quick tip: Base the PC around a mobo which has a "suspend to ram" function in the bios... ;) you can then wire a small relay onto the head unit's power aerial/aux power outlet which will turn off the PC when you turn off the head unit which will drop the power consumption to almost nothing (around 150mAh IIRC) and it'll switch back on in around 10 seconds too when you turn on the head unit... 8) Gav? :P :P

Which version of the interior light? Oh, and double post removed....

I've already got the camera in my car... and a wireless one in my R/C car so I can drive it from the comfort of my car and watch where it's going on the TV screen! 8) ;) :lol:

not a lot... :| Just flowing the charger won't actually give much effect until coupled with the chip/ pulley/ injectors/ FPR... add those, and you'll get a nice increase...

It'd be worth putting an oil pressure gauge in to monitor what's going on IMHO... sounds to me like either a dodgy sender (as mentioned above) or a weak oil pump which is starting to fail... :|

to be fair, this sounds like the exact problem I had with my G60 after rebuilding it... It turned out to be a combination of 3 things: 1) a furred up radiator which was causing the water in the rad not to flow properly and so not cool properly 2) dodgy wiring to the cooling fan motor so that it was only getting between 8 and 10V at the fan making it spin MUCH slower 3) the timing was a mile out causing the engine to run hot when under load which resulted in boiling the coolant way too easily... Hope some of this is of help 8)

my old MKI 16V golf used to eat an inner CV joint every 9 months or so (around 9K miles) due to being low and way more powerful than it left the factory... I eventually bought some decent suspension and genuine CV joints and then didn't have a problem with it until I took it off the road to renovate it... 8) Running a car REALLY low doesn't do any of the suspension parts any favours, and will put extra strain on the bearing cage inside the CV joint which will fail and throw the balls in all directions leaving you well stuck... having to replace them regularly is one of the compromises you have to make when you drop your car that low :| Hope you can get it fixed soon...

Which usually makes it ok. Yours also doesn't look like it was puked up by the chav god himself. I call him chavlore. :lol: Hmm now where's my beer.... And it'll look even less so when I put a standard front bumper back on this weekend... ;) :D

check this out... ;) 8) Guess what's going in my car over the next few months when I get chance... ;) :D http://users.skynet.be/media-car/index.html You may need to sling that into google's translate facility to get it all to make sense, but you'll get the general idea from that site... 8)

Disagree STRONGLY here matey... Having fitted a Mocal oil cooler and a nice NEW VAG radiator, my slightly messed with (!) G60 is running cooler than it did before I messed with it... 8) The G60 rad is a good size for the 4 cylinder car and, as long as it's in good condition and not furred up inside, will happily keep your temps waaaaaayyyyy down low... 8)

yup, about the same here too... 8)

That was exactly my thoughts when I decided not to break my G60 when the engine blew up, but instead to build a car I want to the specs I want... I think, as soon as the paint and body work is sorted, that I'll have achieved my goal with it, and will have a car that has cost me a damned site less than a new one, which will beat the hell out of most new "sports" cars in just about every aspect and will have the added joy of knowing that it's a one off that I built.... 8)

just made this a sticky... 8)

That goes down as one of your best one liners yet... :lol: :rofl: 8) Hope you enjoy it Phat... 8)

erm, I've just read that, and I'm a little worried that nearly all of it applies to me and J-DUB... :? :oops: Big differences are that: a) mine's a corrado! ;) :D b) I drive mine every day (and drive it like it's supposed to be driven too! ;) ) c) mine came with "paint which changes colour in sunlight" :roll: d) I wouldn't have paid 3K for a Corsa, and paid less than that for my Corrado ;) Should I seek help?!? :wink: :roll: :lol:

I've got the whilte (they're actually silver) ultralite's in mine... the only thing to be aware of is that if you're getting a temp or oil pressure gauge, the senders are 1/8 BSP thread size 'cos they're american, where the Corrado's threads for the sensors are 10mm-1 (fine pitch) so the T pieces you need will be custom jobbies if you're gonna do it right... However, 1/8BSP WILL thread into 10mm-1 threaded holes and seal up 'cos they're tapered... ;)

:oops: :oops: :oops: This'll be me keeping quiet then...

S'OK, we all have to learn... :D 8)

nah, kongo127, that's dot 5 :roll: Read the third paragraph! ;) :lol: you need to be careful to get DOT5.1 which is the replacement for all before it... DOT5 is silicone based and will eat the seals in your brake system and so is NOT compatible... :? DOT5.1 was designed to be able to be mixed with any other brake fluid and not to attack rubber brake seal components... 8)

Rallye is slightly easier to do, but it's still not easy... :? Corrado is, as mentioned above, a total nightmare and would almost certainly not be worth the cost....

I buy a litre bottle from Halfords when I do mine and it costs less than £20... 8)