Henny

just use a length of normal vacuum hose from either VW (suprisingly not that expensive!) or your local car parts shop... take a bit of the original stuff in to show them exactly what it is you are after though... 8) Just cut it to the correct lengths from the single long bit you buy to save yourself some cash! ;) 8)

Fingers, replaceing the throttle cable isn't that difficult... I did one on my first 16V corrado outside the dealer in about 25 mins after being towed there by the AA when it let go on the way to work one morning! :lol: It's a little fiddly to do the pedal end, but nothing horrendous.... 8) Oh, the other thing you may want to do is to change the rubber bush in the pedal which the cable clips through... they go soggy over time and can let the cable fall out... :roll: dubbprince, as long as you make sure that the throttle lever itself doesn't move when you re-tension the cable, there is no way it can change the revs... the only way that the idle can be altered is if you overtension the cable so it's always pulling the throttle open slightly... 8)

As far as I know, yes it does... you undo the 2 bolts which hold the caliper onto the carrier and then pull the pads outta the caliper... I dunno how you'd do it without removing the caliper 'cos the hub would get in the way... but I'm happy to be enlightened... 8) :D

Well, just to end this thread on a happy note... I've now done almost 2000 miles in my C, and the overheating hadn't been an issue anymore... until the rad burst... :roll: I've now fitted a Rad from Euro (it's had the VAG logos sanded off it badly, so I can tell it's OEM!) and I've just been on a 100 mile run (I was bored! ;) ) Oil temp didn't go over 102, and water didn't go over 95! :crazyeyes: And that was caining the hell out of her on the motorways and tight and twisty A roads near where I live... 8) In all honesty, I think that I had 4 faults here which you may want to make a note of if you have overheating problems... 1) first fill up I got an airlock in the system due to not twisting the top hose to allow the expansion tank pipe to be at the top/be the highest point... 2) the wiring to the fan was crap and was only supplying around 8V to the fan... :? 3) the engine timing was a way off, and it was a new engine and so ran hotter anyway.... 4) the rad appears to be an aftermarket one, and isn't as well made as a genuine one.... added together, these 4 now being cured, I'm running cooler with my new engine than I ever did with my old G60 block... 8) Thanks to all who helped solve this one (4!) 8) 8) 8)

yup, it's the same idea on 'em all

nah, Green light + Red light should give an amberish light... 8) I'll do a demo at some point with the red and green lighting gels I've got lying around on my dining room table... ;) 8)

yup... like the one either me or Kev have fitted to our C's... 8) Just use a smaller blade, or make the arm shorter when you mod it.... 8)

nah, not me guv... I'd fit a mod'd lupo one so you can then make sure that it clears.... ;) 8)

or fit a shorter wiper blade? ;)

bet it's not difficult to FIT a brake light to one.... ;) :D

Venom sells 'em too.... I've seen a few cars with 'em fitted, and they look OK as long as they aren't toooooo long.... 8) I think Rieger do one too, but I could be wrong... :?

that's a whole shed load of Corrados... 8) :D

you may find that you have to pop the lower ball joint from the strut to allow the strut to swing (with the driveshaft) out of the way enough to clear the gearbox flanges sufficiently to get the whole lot out... 8) Not a huge task, but a pain in the ass if you don't know! ;) :roll:

or a wire coat hanger... ;) :lol: 8)

nah, I've always used a bent bit if wire coathanger... :? :lol: Just make sure there is around 90degrees of play in the belt on it's way between the camshaft pulley and the intermediate shaft pulley and that's about right for the tension... 8)

:roll: :lol: you'll probably find that it's started to work again, and that the idle is also less lumpy now there isn't a vacuum leak... 8)

hell, even I managed to get mine to fire up first time... 8) Timing's easy, especially if it's a fresh engine with nothing already set so you can time it up properly... 8) There's a couple of posts on here with timing daigrams for most of the engines showing the marks and where they should point to.... Follow the instructions and you're there... 8)

heyyyyyy! 8) not bad for a 6 year old memory! ;) :lol: :mrgreen: Glad you got it sorted... does your MFA work again too now?

If it's already on the end stop, it's stretched and that means new cable time... Good news is that they're only around £15 and will probably improve the feel of the car's throttle too... 8)

I take it that's a LEON Cupra R then, not an Ibiza? That's where the difference in pads would come from then... ;)

south coast wheels in southampton will probably be able to help you out if you have all of the dimensions you need... 8) South Coast Wheels 60 Commercial Road Southampton SO15 1GD, Tel: 44 (0)2380 637972 Fax: 44 (0)2380 230729 http://www.southcoastwheels.co.uk/

Ah, in that case, sell the new tyres and put a set of slicks on 'em! ;) :twisted: :lol:

It's been a while since I looked at the vac system on a 16V, but I'm pretty certain that there's a nipple on the throttle body that the loose pipe should connect onto... IIRC there's also a nipple on the airbox which opens/closes the warm air flap which connects onto that green T piece too... I could be totally wrong with this though... It's been a while.. :?

what sensor wire?!? Mine didn't have 'em when I got 'em so I'm guessing that there are 2 different specs, one with sensor and one without... 8)

Victor Reintz = VAG OEM... ;)