Henny

That's an easy bleed kit, Alex... :roll: I actually still use an easy bleed system, but I still get a mate to press the pedal for me as I open and close the nipple 'cos I've found that the valves in the easy bleed kits aren't particularly good... :|

Carb cleaner does wonders for sticky ISVs... 8)

more likely to be a seized rear caliper,phat rado, :? Rear bearings are easy to check... jack up the rear wheel with the car in gear and the handbrake off and spin the wheel... If it is difficult to turn, then you've probably got a seized rear caliper. if it spins freely, it's unlikely to have a seized caliper, and, if it rumbles as it turns, or feels notchy as you turn it, then the bearing's knackered, or if it has any play in it (pull on the top, bottom and sides of the wheel) the bearing's dead...

yeah, but most of the ones I've used in the past have been crap... :| It's much better to have someone to press the pedal for you while you open and close the nipple... 8)

for ABS Corrados, you can do it exactly the same way, only you need to have your ignition switched on to prime up the ABS pump... 8) don't forget to do the clutch on a Corrado while you're changing the fluid! ;)

nah, I buy in bulk! ;) :lol:

my 1.6 Golf Driver (read as pink shed! ;) ) has DOT 5.1...

Halfords sell 'em with a nice T handle on 'em so it's dead easy to adjust... 8)

Costco have an offer on at the moment... £8.50 (ish) inc vat for a pack with: 1x tub interior wipes 1x tub exterior wipes 1x tub leather wipes 1x tub glass wipes 1x tub something else which I can't remember what it is... :oops: I've been very impressed with them so far... 8)

"boot" is the big rubber air guide on top of the metering head... ;)

Alex, you should have used DOT5.1... :wink: even better results than DOT4, and the added advantage that it's got an even HIGHER boling point, so if anyone accidentally drives around with the handbrake on, it'll not affect it as much next time... ;) :lol:

if you disconnect the blue wire, the red light on the dash WILL come on... that's what it's for, to let you know that the alternator isn't charging, and that's what you are doing by creating this kit... :roll: :lol:

IIRC this is no longer legal to do for road use in this country... :? The only way to do this now, is to get hold of a set of wheels which had already been done before the law/regulations were changed...

I've simply done what a few others have done (and Dubster82 has documented well in his profile 8) ) which is to change the light filters in the switches for a different colour... The only LEDs used were in the window and sunroof switches which are normally 3mm green LEDs and I've swapped for red ones... 8) The only bit I've done which not many others have done is to replace part of the LCD screen to reverse the way it works... 8) Blue is an utter sod to do with just standard bulbs and filters so you'll need to use LEDs to get the brightness which is quite tricky to do... I'm playing with a set of MKII G60 clocks at the moment for a mate and trying to get a decent blue illumination to work with not a lot of success... :|

Have a word with John (16VG60)... I got my head (and just about everything else!) flowed and ported via JMRacing and have been well happy with the work done and the service I received... 8)

there's a nut above the head lining which holds it onto thru the roof skin... You can take off the trim along the boot hinge which holds up the roof lining easily (it just pulls off....) and then gently pull the head lining down enough to get at it.... 8) I found it was way easier to do if you drop the rear seats, take out the parcel shelf and kneel in the boot (with the boot open) then you can see what you are doing properly... 8)

underdrive pulleys do just as the name suggests, they are slightly LARGER pulleys than stock, so they don't spin the alternator as fast, which causes less drag on the belt... however, it also makes the alternator produce less electricity and can result in flat batteries if you get stuck in traffic... The alternator actually saps the engine of around 10 to 15 BHP when it's attached to the car... :| simply removing it and just running on the battery will free that up if you are just using the car on a drag strip, but is obviously not an option on a road car! ;) Power steering, air con and the like also sap the same sorta power outta the engine too, so you can under drive those too (or just remove the air-con! ;) ) quick, cheap and easy mod to free up some trapped ponies, but with quite a few drawbacks during normal town driving... :|

The G60 produces around 160BHP as standard, but will be relatively easy to get upto around 210bhp and should, as you say, bolt onto the Audi box... The engine will produce more torque than BHP and the peak torque should appear nice and low down in the rev range, making for a nice punchy accelerator at most speeds... 8) To get the G60 engine upto this kinda power, you need to change the pulley on the supercharger for a 68mm pulley and couple it with a decent chip (I'd recommend an SNS chip) with a set of Redtop (Ford motorsport US) injectors and a Porsche 944 turbo fuel pressure regulator (3.5bar) This isn't a particularly expensive modification to the G60 engine and will give good, reasonably reliable power... 8) If you decide to go down the G60 route, make sure that you get the supercharger re-built before you do anything else to it! The 2.9 VR6 (as found in Corrados) is around 190bhp as standard, but isn't as easy (read cheap!) to tune as the G60... It will however hit those figures you are after if you bolt on a supercharger to it, and kits are readily available to do this... I'll leave the rest of the VR info to someone else, as I have very limited experience of them. Have you thought about the 1.8T engine? There's quite a few people dropping these into all sorts of cars now, and silly high power figures are being pulled out of them... Personally, I think the engine lacks character and is somewhat soul-less to drive, but with the kinda power figures some of the guys are getting outta them, it's gotta be quick! ;) :lol: Also, what about putting in a 1.9 TDI engine? easy to get 200BHP+ and 300LbFt+ outta one of them, and it's cheap on fuel too! ;) in a kit car weighing 800kgs, that'd be a real rocket... I'm looking at dropping one into my MKI Golf GTI at the moment and that weighs about the same as your kit and should be a really mad little stealth pocket rocket... 8) :twisted: Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your project, it sounds interesting... Post up a few pics so we can see what it is that you wanna drop this engine into... 8)

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......... 8) Nice... 8)

Looking good Grim... 8) Much better without that rear splitter... ;) 8)

have you got an adjustable steering column? try changing the angle of the steering wheel if you have and see if that stops it from happening... :| If it does, then you will need to change one of the universal joints in the steering column to cure the problem properly... :?

I replaced my aerial with one from GSF while I was doing my rebuild as I was sick of not being able to pick up the radio stations I work for to make sure that they were working... :roll: :oops: IIRC it cost about £25 for the full amplified aerial, mast and rubber seal and was a doddle to fit.... the only difference is the angle that it comes out of the roof which may make it hit the rear window when the boot is fully open... this doesn't bother me as I have changed the mast to a billet aluminium one which is shorter anyway... ;) :lol: I still get a good reception with it though... 8)

buy one of these : http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.as ... 2050&g=107 I built my entire engine on one (upto the point where you bolt the gearbox on) and it was fan-bloody-tastic! 8) That was an entire G60 engine (complete!) and it didn't flex or mess about at all... 8) You won't find an engine stand that you can build up an engine WITH gearbox on within a normal person's buying price... :| If you look at the engine pic in my sig, that was about 45 mins after it came off the engine stand when I'd bolted the gearbox onto the engine... 8) You WILL need at least one strong mate to get it off the stand though! :|

*cough* avoid jabba *cough* ** Take your charger to someone who will look after it properly... I recommend G-Werks (G-Man) or JMRacing (16VG60) for mechanical work... these 2 know their way around a charger as well as Jabba's reputation (when it was good) and offer a very good service at a very good price... A decent gas flow and porting job (helps the charger push the air into the engine) will gain a few BHP, but will help lots when coupled with a smaller pulley or a toothed belt drive for the 'charger.... 8) Both companies can offer this toothed conversion, or offer smaller standard pulleys and chips to suit... 8) You should be able to see 200bhp quite happily with a decent 'charger rebuild, a 68mm pulley, chip, 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator and a set of red-top injectors... 8) Not a huge outlay for a VERY good, powerfull, torquey and reliable engine... 8) ** this is based on my own personal experience after seeing what Jabba didn't do to my charger after an expensive stage 4 rebuild 18 months ago... :|

PhatVR6 also has this planned for his car and will be worth talking too as long as you are serious about this modification... 8)