Henny

Simplest thing to make sure first is that you're running the KR (1.8 16V) engine on a decent fuel... run it on cheap stuff and you'll be loosing horses big time! They were designed to be run on the high octane mix that was 4star and don't really like the lesser unleaded petrols... Other than that, as the guys above have said, fuel filter and a good service won't ever hurt the engine... 8) Make sure the timing is set as per factory settings, quite a few places used to retard the timing to get them to run properly on cheaper unleaded without pinking which looses quite a bit of power... :| Depending on budget, there's quite a few bits and pieces you can do, depending on how handy you are with a set of spanners ;) Personally, I recommend trying to get hold of a weber throttle body... there's a thread about modding these engines HERE that may be worth a quick look too... 8)

see here for importing details inc. UK registering... 8)

dunno how big a ding you are talking, but I have heard of people using suction pump based dent removal kits to get similar sounding dents out with very good results... 8)

I'll measure it at lunchtime... 8) I wanted it straight and slash cut originally, but the bloke did me a discount as he'd already built that backbox for someone else who'd then not shown up for it... ;) If I get bored, I may get it taken off and a new end welded on... :)

red K plater in Wilmslow this morning... seemed quite suprised I flashed and waved, but waved back anyway... Anyone here? 8)

yup, another vote for Stealth here too! 8) Dunno what he does to 'em (other than what is stated above!) but the box feels soooooo good now, much better than a new one IMHO! 8)

just next to the spoiler manual switch under the dash... 8)

round one?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 91299&rd=1 Bit more like these ones then? Even has spare centercaps! ;) 8)

these ones?

could be a jammed starter motor I suppose... mine did similar when it was dying... :| Have a good look at the earth strap though, that could well be the problem...

dual tone horns have 2 sounders, one higher pitch, one lower pitch... Nothing to do with the alarm, it just sounds better! 8)

WOAH! that's a fantastic price... :shock: Cheapest I saw it for was about £280 when I was looking at it a little while ago... may have to go and look at my finances a little closer.... ;)

how muchn did you end up paying?

do something different.... 1.9TDI 180 and up the turbo to take it to over 200bhp! 8) Well cool, and a good idea with petrol prices what they are at the moment! :shock:

you gotta remember that to open a window, or run the lights will take upto about 20amps top... To fire the starter motor, the ignition system, fuel pump etc is gonna EASILY pull 60 amps outta the battery... if the battery's struggling, then it won't even fire the solenoid on the starter properly which will cause the ticking and flashing lamps...

...could beeee.... [/Hong Kong Phooey] I've not had a VR, so it's entirely possible there are more than 2 locations for the horns on a Corrado then....

IIRC there are 2 locations for the horns on Corrados... Either just behind the grill (where it is on my G60) or down in the drivers side of the engine bay just behind the bumper (that's where it was on my 16V) I think it changed depending on if you had a dual or single tone horn...

£1600 ?!? what's up with it?!? My complete rebuild with LSD AND sourcing a VR6 gearbox to strip apart came in less than that! It's not an auto is it? :roll:

mine only comes on at 45mph + so I passed my MOT with no problems... ;) I'll get my arse in gear soon and fit the new rear rotors to sort the problem once and for all! :oops:

yup... exactly that reason... 8) It also stops slippage at HIGH revs which is the one people don't think about, so you get a higher top end boost figure too... 8) The low end torque increase should be very noticable, Woody's the best to ask on that one as he's got the same kit as me (only blue annodised, not black like mine) on a pretty standard engine... I have no idea how much of a change it makes other than the noise 'cos I've nothing to compare it with having changed just about every component on the engine in someway! :? :lol:

you probably could do it without removing the cambelt, you'd just need to loosen the tensioner to make sure it doesn't "ping" the bottom drive sprocket off when you take the bolt out, and then re-tension it afterwards.... 8) You will still need to take the P/S and supercharger belts and pulleys off though...

Muppets!!! Sorry, I had to get that outta my system... :wink: :lol:

nope, the KR bolt is very similar, but doesn't have the extra pulley for the supercharger giving extra loads onto it so should be OK... I've yet to hear about a KR bolt breaking one... 8)

With the oil temp at a reasonable level follow these steps: Loosen the top bolts/nuts slightly on all 3 mounts... With the bonnet open, start the engine and rev hard a few times so that the engine moves about on the slightly loose mounts(hence the warm oil temp and the open bonnet! ;) ) Now turn off the engine, and re-tighten the bolts/nuts you loosened. This will have now centralised your engine on all 3 mounts. Try that and see if it's improved things... 8)