Henny

Critical_Mass, nah, that's not too bad... If you're worried about the temps, stick in a Mocal 19row oil cooler... That'll keep your temps down... 8) Have a word with G-Man, he does the kits for a good price...

get hold of some MALE spade terminals. Crimp them onto the wires from the bulb holders which came with the new lights and then you can simply plug them into the original wiring connector without having to butcher the loom... ;)

:iamwithstupid: THIS ^^^^ Either that, or go around and confront him calmly, collectedly and soberly, with witnesses and tell him that he was seen doing it by a neighbour who can identify him and if he doesn't want you to press charges, then he'll be paying for the repairs and staying WELL away from the both of you in future... If he swings for you, beat the utter hell out of him as your witnesses will all be able to truthfully say it was self defence. If he pays up, cool, you get your car repaired, and he'll probably stay away after being made look stupid. If he just tells you to get lost, calmly say, "OK, that's your decision" and walk off knowing that he's now going to be bricking it waiting for a knock on his door for quite some time... Just don't retalliate as it WILL escalate or at least come back to bite you in the ass... Staying on the right side of the law still allows you some comeback, will show you up well to your girlfriend (and other friends) and can have a much longer lasting effect than just handing out a simple beating in an alleyway... ;) 8) Good luck!

ah, I always get confused with gear ratios Yandards, You're right... 8) You need a box from an engine that doesn't rev as high, or makes most power low down to get the best outta the G60 engine...

I'm not 100% sure what the official top speed was, but I seem to remember it was 136mph... Which bit of the gearing don't you like? I always found that 2nd was WAY too short which is why I had a VR6 1st and 2nd gear put in when I had Stealth rebuild the box and add the LSD... means I can hit 60 in second if I almost hit redline... The valver box will probably be a bit longer geared to take account of the valver's higher redline so may work well... have a word with Vince and see what he says (you'll need the number stamped into the box's housing though) 8)

Sorry, but that bloke is talking shite... The UK ONLY got the 2.9 VR6 in the Corrado... the 2.8 was never used in an official UK Corrado. He's correct that the US spec ones were 2.8, but if yours is right hand drive, it should be a 2.9 Check the engine number and find out what the first 3 letters are, they'll tell you if it's a 2.9 or 2.8...

you've also got the rarest bits of all with it.... ...the blanking plugs for the screws, which probably means you've also got the mounting braket too! 8)

Constant injection system = CIS Basically the injectors are ALWAYS spraying fuel rather than being turned on electronically when needed and off when not... K-Jetronic is a CIS system...

from the factory they won't do this... J-DUB ran out of test track at 140MPH... although, actually, as there's a corner at the end of the 2 mile straight at Bruntingthorpe, I ran out of guts and hit the brakes to make the corner seeing as it was wet! :oops: She was still pulling slightly, but there's no way that it would have hit the rev limiter... If you can hit the rev limiter in 5th, then you've definately got a different/modified gearbox/engine in there or some seriously small wheels!

3 replies all saying roughly the same thing in the same minute?!? woah... :lol: Saying that, I did write more than you two put together...

redline MT90 will make your gearchange feel much nicer... It's definately a worthwhile addition... 8) You don't need a pump, but a length of clear hose makes life somewhat easier. You need a 17mm allen key (or socket adaptor) to undo the plugs... there's one on the front of the box about half way up which you fill through until it starts leaking back out again, and one underneith that's the drain point. One simple tip is to ensure that you undo the fill point BEFORE you try to undo the drain point... that way you know that you'll be able to refill it after you've drained it and won't be left in the sticky position of not being able to get oil back into the box and not being able to move the car 'cos there's no oil in the box! ;) :lol: You're right when you say that the filling point isn't very accessible, but on a valver it's probably the easiest to get at due to the lack of any pipework over the top of it... 8) Good luck!

sh1t... that's not good to hear... Hope you got all his details and are gonna claim against him, sounds like it's entirely his fault... :mad:

my somewhat different G60 (1940cc based on a 1H block) gives me around 30 on my daily commute into manchester and back (60 miles round trip) and has given me almost 40mpg on a long run down south when I wasn't hammering it... ...although when hammering it around Bruntingthorpe prooving ground I got it down to a genuine 11mpg! :crazyeyes: :twisted: :lol:

meh, ignore Goodridge direct, I've never had much joy getting any info out of 'em on the couple of attempts I've had at making contact with 'em... just go to GSF and get a VR6 kit... compare the lengths with your existing front flexy's before taking 'em off and if they're different, take 'em back and ask for a 16V kit... ;) If you're running 5 stud though, I'm pretty damn sure that you'll need the VR6 kit though... 8)

either what Stan says, or the microswitch in the driver's handle is dead/dying...

Check the wiring to the multiplug on the back of the throttle body as the wires here are directly above the exhaust manifold and get brittle. Also check all the vacuum lines as these could cause similar problems if they're split or leaking...

coolrado, get hold of a Golf haynes manual... the torques are the same as in there and it has the tightening sequence for cam caps and head bolts too... 8)

Riley, yup, welded and smoothed, but I had the lump left in so I can still reverse the mod if I ever feel like it simply by re-drilling the hole... 8) VR6, oooh, very neat... 8)

rear end is the same on all Corrados (as they all share the same rear brake components... I'd say you'd need a VR6 6-line kit to replace all of the flexies on your car... GSF do these for about £50 IIRC and often have 'em on the shelf (they did in Manchester 6 weeks ago when I went in to get a set anyway! 8) )

Green N plate VR6 last night from Salford Quays through to Chorlton... Anyone here? (I was in the Grey Corrado that was behind you as you turned off)

YES, they will fit... with some mild arch mods... G-man used to have these on his 'rado and they looked VERY cool... 8) Pics HERE

Tooltrade in Team valley or Machine mart in Bencham bank (Gateshed) sell 'em according to my mate... 8)

dazzyvr6, I've had to do similar on a valver which are pretty much as deep as the VRs plugs... It's got to be worth a go to save taking the head off though, hasn't it? :?

IIRC, the revs at 60 with my modded G60/VR6 box are approximately: 2nd -> 6250 3rd -> 4500 4th -> 3600 5th -> 2600 I'll update this later after taking my car for a little drive... :twisted: :lol:

the lower heat sheild on the cat is only there to make sure you don't burn the ground when you park on dry grass and the like! a large jubilee clip is almost certainly the best solution... 8)