Henny

sheeeeeeeiiiiitttt.... :crazyeyes: Glad to hear that you both got out of that relatively unscathed and will mend in a relatively short time... 8) Hope you both get well soon... 8)

Mine tends to break loose around 3.5K to 4K rpm which isn't exactly low down in the rev range (seeing as it's making 150+ LBFt from 1250rpm!) This is where peak torque starts to be produced from my engine (all the way upto around 5.5K!) however, it only ever does it if I hit full throttle while turning hard in the wet... a combination that's not very clever in any FWD car... :roll: :lol: I've never feathered the throttle on my car (probably explains my tyre costs! :oops: :lol: ). On a straight (or even exiting a corner) I can happily just shove my foot into the carpet and let the LSD deal with getting the forwards thing to happen!

yup, with Chris on those two, although I'd budget a little over £300 for the alarm so you have some money to pay for the removal of the old system as well as the fitting of the new one... 8) The sunroof problems don't tend to be motor problems... there's a weak point in the mechanism which breaks causing the problems with jamming/scratching of the roof panel. The repair parts are around £125 if I remember correctly, but the labour to install the parts can be quite expensive, and if the roof panel is scratched you're gonna need it respraying too... Spoiler problems tend to be wiring faults or sensor problems rather than the motor, so costs can vary due to labour costs invoved in finding where the fault is... :|

DEL VR6, they're obsolete from VAG... :(

For the spacers I had made up I measured how big the diameter of the mounting face of a front disk was and used that for the outer diameter... Can't remember what it was off hand though... :|

yes, there are differences... The slam panel has different mounting holes in it for the grill. (although it's pretty easy to modify either grille to fit either slam panel) Late grille is 3 slat not 7 Late front wings are more flared Late front bumper is wider and has a slightly different trim line around it Late bumper is humped Late headlamp glasses and surrounds stick out more Late fogs and indicators sit much more flush

which was what I was also saying... :lol: Struan, where are you getting your adaptors from? Every adaptor I've seen of this type has got a spiggot shaft built into it, (like my spacers have) normally to suit the type of wheel they're adapting to (ie a porsche one will have the outer diameter to suit the hole on a porsche wheel) What you need to do is find out what the outer diameter of that is on the adaptor and then get a spiggot ring (or have one made) to suit both that shaft size and your wheel...

ummm... nice shaft.... [insert pun here]

mine looks such a different colour now... I'm not sure if he's painted it the right colour or not... :| It's nice though... 8)

It's still got side repeaters... 8) I got my local engineering shop to CAM drill the holes as they have been drilled at a specific angle to the top face of the spoiler else what I'm doing won't work... Oh, and I've got a spare spoiler which was also painted just in case it doesn't work! ;) :lol: I only had it de-badged 'cos there was LOTS of rot around the mounting holes when I removed the badges... She'd had quite a bit of paintwork in the past by the look of things... :| There's not much modified really on the body work... it's just nice to have her all the same colour for a change! :lol:

cool! nice to hear of another one being saved from being broken up... 8)

Struan, Let me make this as simple as possible as you seem to be getting a little confused... basically you're just asking for bits of pipe to be machined out of a solid lump of Duralamin which have an outer diameter of 72.6 mm and a centre bore of 57.1 mm and are between 10 and 15mm long... they need to have a slight flange/chamfer on one end so that they'll sit flush against the disk on your car... Spiggot rings really aren't rocket science... If you're using 20mm hub adaptors, unless they're hubcentric and include a spiggot flange, you'll need to add on 20mm to the length of the spiggot ring so that they still fit onto the hub and still reach into the wheel to keep it centralised. You don't need spacers attached to the spiggot rings, mine have 'cos I needed to space the wheel by 11mm, but I could have just had the spiggot bit made if I didn't need the spacing... (although I'd have bought them from Borbet 'cos they make 'em for the wheels I have! :lol: ) gradeAfailure, that's exactly how I had my spacers made... ;) Personally I thought that it was a neater and nicer solution to the problem...

I got mine made at a local engineering shop I know... If you take in the exact dimensions to a decent small engineering shop and let 'em know what they're for they'll knock you up a set pretty quickly for not much cash... My spacers cost £25 each, but they're substantial bits of kit - 26mm thick piece of metal machined down to give the spiggot bit and the 11mm spacer... A set of spiggot rings shouldn't cost you much at all... just make sure you get the flange machined onto the mating face so that they fit flush... (look at the photos in H-YYU's gallery to see what I mean about the flange)

7.75mm thick spiggot rings would need to be made of something a little harder than plain aluminum or plastic IMHO... Personally I'd go for an alloy like Duralumin or similar... (pretty much what my custom spacer/spiggot rings are made of 8) )

it's all gone quiet around here... 4 quick teasers for you of what's been going on with H-YYU... 8)

oooh, that smarts.... :|

speed sensor is a 5 minute job. Lambda should be a 30 minute job (including getting it up onto ramps and back down again!) but could take a lot longer as they have a habbit of welding themselves in taking ages to get out...

there's 2 or 3 different ones... get the wrong one and you'll get some weird and wacky readings on it... If the sensor is missing, the MFA will normally skip the setting. If it's faulty then you'll either get no reading (it'll skip it) or a mad one like -40 As bix says, the wiring's somewhat prone to getting damaged down there too, so check that out before spending your hard earned... 8)

I'd bet that's a dealer only part... It shouldn't be difficult to change it, but I can't remember exactly how you get the cable off the part... :| Personally, I'd wait until the traffic dies down a bit and then do as RW1 suggests by putting it in 2nd by hand, starting it with the clutch in and limping home...

how loud is the tapping? (I know that's not an easy one to answer, but give it a go... )

it's just the bit which attaches to the end of the cable which has the thread on it... I had to replace one on my first corrado (1.8 16V) quite a few years ago after over tightening it doing a clutch :oops: IIRC it's not expensive... 8)

check the blue/greenish colour cap to the left of the inlet manifold (on the end of the random pipe which goes to the back of the exhaust manifold) for any damage... this can make noises like you describe if damaged...

Dr Forinor, cool attitude... 8) They had LSDs (all be it mainly clutch/plate style ones) and the like back in the 50s, never mind when that SAAB bloke wrote the 250Bhp max for FWD cars thing, however tyre and suspension technology has taken some pretty major advances since then which makes 250+ somewhat more managable... I don't have many problems with getting the power of my G60 down onto the tarmac as long as I drive it with my brain switched on... the wheelspin into 3rd on the M56 this morning was almost certainly more about me having not driven her for 3 weeks and having been used to a 1.6 Corrola Auto hire car than serious problems with grip... :oops: :lol:

So you're saying that a small amount of engine oil, under no pressure, managed to seep its way past the compression washer on the sparkplug, around 12mm of thread (which was tightened and along with the washer stops several bar of pressurised gas escaping from the cylinder when the engine's running) and into the cylinder? Hell, get me some of that oil, it sounds better than Plus Gas! :roll: Personally, if it's on the thread but the tip is clean/normal, I'd go with the "small puddle sat in the spark plug's chamber (around the hex bit of the sparkplug) which has transferred onto the thread as you removed the plug" theory as the only plausible one... 8)

I have an LSD in my G60's box 'cos otherwise I'd never get any traction... :| Even so, I can still spin both wheels (as I did on the M56 today :oops: ) hitting third hard when it's wet (and yes, my tyres are in good condition!) just purely down to the torque... Without the LSD (or more correctly ATB diff - Automatic Torque Biasing -IE it shoves the power to the wheel with the most grip) I'd be spinning one wheel in every gear and would never get anywhere... When I set up my engine/box project (originally for J-DUB) I tried my hardest to ensure that there's only one weak link, that being the inner CV joints... The theory being that if there is a slightly weak link then that's the bit which will take all the abuse and eventually give up rather than stressing ALL parts until something random lets go, I'd rather make sure that the bit that's most likely to let go is cheap to replace and not likely to make too much mess if it ever does let go! :lol: Even so, the standard G60 inner CV should be good for the 250ish BHP the engine's making, so it's not exactly a weak link as such, just the one I know is most likely to be a point of failure in the future... 8) I'd imagine the problem is even more pronounced with a VR6S/C as the torque it's making should be somewhat more than my 1940cc 4 pot... LSD, fitting and gearbox rebuild cost me £1024 from Vince at Stealth nearly 2 years ago but I'd already removed it from the car and refitted it myself...