GazzaG60

the vac line needs to be 1m exactly and use the proper vw tubing.

take a plug out straightr after a run. try not to idle it too long. look at its colour or take a picture and post it. if they are black its rich. if they are white lean and spots of white or damage are det marks. change the fuel filter. its under the car just near the drivers rear wheel. bout 5 quid knock sensor is on front of engnie. its a round black thing with a wire on it to the left of the oil filter housing . if the wires looking bad replace it. torque to 10 lbsft i think. you can run the engine and tap it with a spanner and you should hear the engine change. this is timing being pulled. the co-pot is on the boost tube gonig to the throttle body. its a sensor with wiring coming of it and a white cap on one end. put a meter across the 2 edge pins. take a reading of the ohm. post it. 02 sensor should produce v between 0-1 on the signal wire. its purple coming from the 02 sensor harness. it should fluctuate when warm. this holds good fueling at idle and cruise. an af gauge is a good idea as it can help with this and other issues proper wideband af needs a meter to measure. of boost you should see 14.5:1 or so. and on boost around 12:1 start with the cheap stuff or get it serviced by a reputable company who will set it up properly. gwerks are popular on here. darren seems a good bloke

check plugs and leads, dizzy cap. plug gap. fuel pump and filter. filter poor/old knock sensor. fucked torque? fueling in general. (co-pot) rich o2 sensor. ignition timing maybe to advanced. isv. i have issues with fueling where a bad o2 circuit would make it miss when going WOT or to the map co-pot issues similar. when i went chip and pulley all the broken bits get amplified and come out of the woodwork. whats the co-pot ohm setting. what s the a/f at idle and on boost and going onto boost.

kevs right bang for buck a turbo conversion would be good but it wouldn't feel like a vr. stan a good turbo 16v will eat a vr with a supercharger. from what i have found a vr t makes a better daily driver than a high power 16vt more vr middle and bottom. the shopping list can get costly but people have made 300hp for about a grand on a valve before now. its what and where you source it from that matters.

a vr with balls. thats more like it. do it kev

if you want short runner and with the charger you do then try racecraft or make your own. port shape is the issue or thats what i would have thought. gotta be worth 20hp for nothing really. on a standard 16v 15hp has been gained through short runner proven so a vr you have to expect similar.

the inlet runners are different on a 24 to a 12. i believe 3 runners are longer on the vr to make up for head design and to avoid too much harmonic loss. im told the 24v has cylinder compensation to address this. the main reason for the lack of short runner vr6 manifolds

come on lets face it the soob as a fast car is streets ahead of a corrado even though most dont seem to agree. for some reason id expect due to what we own and where we are. however much i know its a better car at going fast i still wont swap. i know i can create a 400hp subaru for not a lot but hey..... plenty of my old subaru mates are going vw too. its a nice easy and cheap platform to work on and mod compared with a subaru

if my crank looked like that i would not be happy.

id check. boost leaks. make up a set of caps. disconnect at tb and put a cap in. put a jubly round it. same at other end from charger. drill a small hole fir a bike pump and pump till 20psi or so. if it only holds 10 you found your issue. other than that id suspect the charger if its had a rag in it. check the isv too. get a whell bolt ideally a round locking one. itll fit the isv pipe from the inlet perfectly. fit it remove isv and try again. mine runs almost faultlessly like this. bad isv. worth a go. costs nothing

i got one from vw. it was around 70 quid. the fist one they got for me was 3 wire. however the one on mine is 4 wire including the earth. it gets confusing with vw. there are 2. if yours looks like its a 4 wire rectangular plug like most are check with them again. you can always get a 3 wire universal and wire that to the existing harness although usually the harness is dead too. maybe make a full new 02 harness upto the plug. universals are around 30-40 quid. my wires were so dead i had to buy a new one from vw

unlucky mate. if you ordered the pistons from rodney at jrc in the states i believe its about 1 month. i went wiseco in the end so it made no difference and 9a ones are off the shelf. personnal i think the internals would be upto 300 hp in a G60 without need for pistons. whethe the charger can flow enough for 300hp im not sure. id expect itll need a 62mm or smaller pulley unles you are going for peak. to hit 300, if you are after a big number it may be worth looking at a solid lifter head, big port job and cam and using a bigger pulley and revving to 7500rpm or so. 210lbs ft@7500 would make 300 on the dot. id expect you have already sorted this lot out th

whats the part number. cant help but presume it wont have the strength of a 02m though.

could always do it yourself

well id drop the drive by wire if you cant left foot Gav. goota keep that spool up tjhen just lift off. never really saw the issue with a throttle cable. is ther a reason for DGW

henny its area under torque as hp is just a calculation taken from torque. i know you knew that already but thought id add. but you are right. no point having the power if you cant put it down or stop it.

the 9a is the best out of box valve to turbo. the ringlands are good and thick, rods strong and crank well up to job. compression need to be lowered for proper boost. guys the most important part is the management not the engine. keep that in mind. io think 300hp is attainable for 3k including engine rebuild with forged pistons.

its a myth. long gears make better 1/4 miles cars/sprinters. less changes and in the case of a turbo more time in boost. reason why the top us vw cars that run sub 10 are autos

intersting points. triggers got it there. the power of an engine is the area under the torque curve. that makes a G60 a powerful engine. however it drops off early in comparision with a multivalve x-flow. now when using the car harder most of us use say 4k+ change at 6 ish... you get the idea. so that means that most of the time when screwing a G60 is beyond peak torque-power is dropping off. the reason i am gonig 16vt. it will have a narrower powerband than the G60 but when it comes down to it the 3-4k of rev ill be using will give a lot more and it will be a lot faster as long as i stay in boost. as ive said before though i think ill miss the low down from time to time. i do fancy a GT40r on a 24v though hence my interest in the thread.

with a bigger turbo and around 350hp you may be better off with the vr box. not to up on boxes but i reckon a vr 1st n second followed by the valve 3 and 4 and a vr 5th may be good if possible. may make a better cruiser with the 5th

yes agreed but i cans see anyone going with a core that will restriuct the hosing. thats just stupid. outlet sizing depends. smaller ones creat faster flow meaning better low response. however you usually have to match with hoses up to the tb anyway. size is everything(along with flow). there was nothing wrong with the flow on the standard G60 cooler but you changed it.

i agree. for a proper blown engine get the biggest you can fit. for a G60 the rallye or golf that henny and others use is good. i got 600*450*80mm and hope itll fit without too much cutting.

16vt all the way. not a kr though if you want some low down. they went back to 16v due to the injector placement im told not flow. a std 20v will outflow a 16v no worries. things get more intersting with cams though also im pretty sure you cant get bigger valves in a 20 whereas you can in a 16. there are lots of other head mods possible too on a 16. phat got it right first time though even if it sounds vague. depends what you want.

the only reason i see for a FSN not to be right is its rising rate of 1.7:1 rather than 1:1 on boost. this would need a different map all together. sts is 1:1 id expect rich conditions in boost and maybe even stuttering at the top end.

cheers. i got most of those down but not all. i actually stil get a good deal with elephant but they wont take on the 16vt so a 24v is cheaper than a modded G60. thats good but not for FI peeps.