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He did a full respray on mine but I don’t think he enjoyed it very much, it was in his shop two years! He prefers to do accident repairs and jobs he can turn around in couple of days rather than committing a full month to one car.

My mate did mine, he could be very close to you if you're near Sheffield as he's in Staveley. Did it the way VW should have originally, makes a much better job although he did say it took him two days to get it right! [ATTACH=CONFIG]96781[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]96782[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]96783[/ATTACH]

Good skills!

Looks just like the one I fitted, bought from ECP, and mine's a May 95 so there's not too many later. Not the most pleasant job you'll ever do, getting the pump assy out of and back into the bayonet fitting on the bottom of the tank wrist deep in fuel! Make sure you get the seal, cover and clamping ring fitted properly on the top of the tank when you're finished, mine was on cross threaded and leaked fuel out the top of the tank when full.

T68 is the ECU plug as identified on the wiring drawings, T68/6 is just pin 6 on that plug as you suggested. Do you have a copy of the Golf wiring diagram? If not, PM me an email address and I'll forward the set I used when I did my OBD2. I just click the insert image button in the reply box which opens a window asking which image I want to attach, as long as the photo is small enough it attaches, never had a problem. Not sure if it works on the phone but I'm never far from my MacBook anyway!

This is probably the limit of what I should do tonight whilst containing a number of G&Ts but there is a Yellow/Blue wire in T68/6! I could bell this out to G1/3 over the weekend if you really need it, but it's not like getting to the plugs on the back of the fuse/relay board is the nicest job on a Corrado is it! [ATTACH=CONFIG]96773[/ATTACH]

Just went and had a look, there's definitely no pin in 38 on the ECU plug! I've no idea of the car the loom came from as I bought a box of bits for the OBD2 but it runs fine.

I’ll take a look at mine in the morning if it helps?

They drill and screw to the slam panel using small self tappers. Bought new they also came with a couple of small clamps which fixed to the headlight screws and clamped the outer ends, it's 23/24 years since I bought mine so the instructions are well gone but it also said to cut the ends off the bonnet seal: [ATTACH=CONFIG]96690[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]96691[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]96692[/ATTACH]

Saves the tenner postage!

Bled the brakes and put the wheels back on........it’s coming off the winter axle stands tomorrow!

Had my spare steering wheel re-trimmed over the winter by Jack at Royal Steering Wheels http://royalsteeringwheels.com Had it done in original black with black stitching but a whole world of choices were available on the website! Not pennies cheap but I didn't think £130+VAT plus a tenner postage was much to pay for a specialist job, looks like a new wheel in the car and so much better than the old tired one, highly recommended if you're looking for similar.

Yes I sent the whole thing as they asked, just kept the track rod ends as they were brand new OEM. They replaced the rods as one had been cut down at some time, some clown must have been struggling to set the tracking......always wondered why it seemed to have more lock one way than the other!

First click on the switch is sidelights, not low beam. Second click is headlights with main beam on the stem. Strangely however, the circle does only light on the first click, never understood that myself either! You could have some bulbs out on the heater dials, I deleted mine for climate control many years ago so don’t remember exactly what’s in there.

Thread Revival! For those of us who rely on Freeview for TV and don't get wall to wall Discovery reruns, a heads up that the Corrado episode of Wheeler Dealers (S12 E17) shows this Thursday at 21:00.

It depends where it is in the slot before you start. -2.25 could be the least possible camber you can get if something else is bent, alternatively it could currently be all the way in with 2 or more degrees of adjustment available. It’s pretty agricultural to set up but generally does the job!

That’s some impulse buy, welcome to the mad house! There’s plenty of info and help around here, not much that somebody hasn’t encountered before.

OK Hasan, as I guessed it was at the back of the head unit, there’s a brown/red that I spliced in to for the switched live. I’ve left my Fluke at work so can’t check it now but the current draw was pretty low when I checked it before using that wire and I’ve not had any fuse issues since.

Good question Hasan, and one I cannot immediately answer! I’ll have to get the cover off the car at the weekend (it’s probably about time I gave it a warm up anyway) and take a look. It was definitely something local to the area, possibly the switched live to the head unit.

You could try Michael at MJ Interiors to get your seats done, either repairing the bolster on your existing one or going the whole hog on the interior as I did. I’d suggest you called and had a look at mine but I have an inkling that you live a fair distance away from North Notts? You could give me a shout if you’re heading up the M1 any time.

SORNed it. Now to get on with the winter jobs: 1. All the callipers off and sent away for reconditioning. 2. Try and cure the ABS once and for all, without fail the lamp comes on at 78mph and only resets by switching ignition off and back on! 3. Fuel leaking around filler neck when refuelling. 4. Re-seal a/c pipework ready for regassing. 5. Starter motor off and taken in for a looking at, warm starting doesn't seem convincing. Plus whatever else comes along. Target date 01/04/2019 allowing a short visit to the paint shop to repair ding in bonnet where I knocked garden rake off hook on garage wall and we'll be ready for Stanford Hall.

Bosch pump from ECP, fitted a couple of years ago and seems to be working fine. I must have upset the sender for the gauge when I fitted it though as it takes days for it to work it’s way up after filling. Job on the list for this winter!

Mine wasn’t parked up for anything like that length of time but it resulted in fuel issues. The petrol had gone off allowing the pump to rust up in the tank, fuel filter was shot and one out of six injectors was working. I drained everything out of the tank and replaced the pump and filter, had the injectors cleaned and serviced along with oils etc as mentioned above. Aside from that it started reasonably easily. Expect it to clatter a lot on starting while the followers pressure up with oil, mine took a few minutes until they were all quiet.......that was awful, kept expecting something to break! Hope the tin worm hasn’t got to it too much.

Now that I've taken a better look i.e. not on my phone, they look more like the secondary front crossmember bolts, item number 6 on the VR6 Photo posted by GrahamV above. That has two M8 bolts and four M10 bolts, the M8s hold the crossmember in place when the bumper is removed but the M10s secure it and also fix the front bumper brackets in place.

M8 x 50, I’m guessing as I’m away from home and my paperwork but I’d say they’re the steering rack bolts. I’ve had the rack out loads of times recently and hate those bolts!!!