coullstar

New wheels. 7x15 ET24 BBS's from a 325 Sport. They look ok but I didnt get the original bolts and I dont think the VW match. Needs lowering badly.

Does anybody know. I bought the wheels and they do seem to have a straight taper. The bolts tightened but it didnt feel right. The bolts are holding with about 12mm of thread against 17mm for normal wheels. Looks like I am needing new bolts but does anybody know what taper these wheels have? The guy didnt have the original bolts.

Going to look at a set of E30 BBS wheels tomorrow and I was just wondering if my VW bolts will be ok to use? They are the 7x15 ET24 ones.

He must have long arms & legs then!

Glad I am not the only one then. As for shop windows, I recommend that you dont do that as I almost rear ended a 106 on Friday whilst doing the same thing.

Golf G60

Will lacquer adhere to bare metal? I am going to try and get rid of some of the nasty corrosion on my wheels this weekend.

Cant be arsed if thats the case.

VR6's have a slightly wider front track dont they though? I have a suspicion that the Vaux is smaller.

I am looking at a set of wheels 7x16 with an ETof 42. They are off a Vauxhall. Has anyone run this size offset on thier car? I was thinking that the wheels might actually hit the shocks. I realise that it is easy enough to get spacers but it would be good to know anyhow. What is the centrebore on the Vauxhalls? I think they were on a Corsa.

As soon as I typed that last message I thought "fuse". Thats what it was :oops: . Bloody aerial connection is dodgy now!! :mad:

I connected the yellow and red together then connected them to the red/white lead but nowt is happeneing. There is a red/brown (ignition live) that is not used.

I have just received my new headunit and I am pathetic with the wiring. There is something about wiring specifically for VW/Audis but it is not really that clear. I rememeber with previous units that I connected the permanent live and ignition live together then this is connected to the live (yellow) terminal on the head unit. The red wire from the unit it then redundant. Is this right?

Yep.

Fill your car up, drive 100miles or so normally then fill up again and note how many litres you put in. Multiply that number by 0.21996 to get it in gal. Divide the gal by the mileage and hey presto mpg. This will see if you are using abnormal amounts of fuel.

Have you checked the timing? i.e. all the timing marks line up on the crank pulley, cam pulley, dizzy and flywheel? The Hall sender is about £35 from http://www.gsfcarparts.com if I remember right. I cannot remember exactly what it does but when mine went it was like the car kept cutting out with the rev counter behaving erraticaly. I am not saying that it is this but it is a possibility. Also, do a search for on the ISV etc as it may just need cleaned. Hall Sender: If you look at your dizzy there will be an electrial plug coming out about halfway down. See if this is loose. The hall sender is just a circiut board that senses the pulses when the slotted disc in the dizzy rotates Just remove your cap, unplug the electrical connection then undo the two bolts holding in the ditributor. Make sure to mark the position its in before removing. There may be a little oil come out when you remove it. To get to the hall sender you need to punch out the pin on the lower coupling (noting which way the cupling sits) then just withdraw the shaft from the body. The sender unit will now be shown. 3 screws out and replace. Refit in reverse.

Did you replace the whole dizzy or just the cap? If it was just the cap then it may be the hall sender unit in the dizzy body.

When I picked my car up last week it ran out of fuel. Once more petrol was added it was hard to start and would just die. I managed to get it home but it was spluttering under acceleration as if it had a misfire. Since then I have changed the oil, oil filter and plugs, checked timing and leads and cleaned the ISV. I also checked for any loose vacum hoses. The car seemed ok on Friday but when I took it to the garage this morning it was back to spluttering and just conked out. It would then not start. It seemed that when I was appliyng the accelerator the car just died as if it was getting no fuel however it appears to be eating fuel quite rapidly. The mechanic who is changing the cambelt for me reckoned it might be the air/fuel meter. I was thinking fuel filter maybe as the fuel pump primes and whines when the engine is on. Any ideas?

Always use NGK's. They were only replaced 5kmiles ago.

Had a look at the rear exhaust rubber and its well shagged so I am going to replace tomorrow. How does the rubber come of the rear body bracket? 2l 16v by the way.

G60's are going with the car. I quite like the wheels. It really needs going over first to make sure everything is tickity boo first then some suspension will be on the cards. I hate the standard ride height! If I was going to put a set of wheels on it would be a set of 8x16" Design 90's with anthracite centres.

New pics showing the scabby wheels (even worse on the other side) and the flat rear bench :(

Cool!!! Its just my other one never gets near that temp. I remember the G60 getting that high.

I ran the engine for 5 min then added half the bottle of flush and ran for another 10min. Drained oil and replaced. Car started fine and now runs as it should. When I took it for a 15min B road run the oil temp was still reaching 105deg. To me this seems pretty high. The water temp was getting up to 90deg. I never changed the filter I put on last night. Could this now be clogged up and cause the high oil temp?

Sorry the only merc I like is the G-wagen.