swiftkid

I don't know the back story on this but hopefully his will help: From the CE2 webpage it says these are the following wires. Red - Permanent live Q/3 Brown - Ground/negative E/5 Brown/Red - Switched live (ignition) H1/7 Grey/Blue - Instrument panel lighting Q/6 Blue/White - Speed signal for automatic volume (only used on VW oem units AFAIK) http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html Check power at head unit, red should be constant and brown/red is switched but probably a yellow wire by the time it gets the head unit. If nothing, check at fusebox, if you get something there check resistance and hopefully find you've just got a broken wire. Also, when checking power earth to an earth point not the radio earth just incase it's a bad earth

That large red cable I believe is your 'Z' pin which is unfused power to your injectors, just so it doesn't happen again you could cut back the cable and add an inline fuse. The wire runs right the way round the bay into the large multi pin so would mean taking the loom fully out, not a wonderful job.

To release the plug there is a pin on one side, you can see it right in the middle of the image below and you pull it outwards (shown left). Those plugs are different to the corrado ones but its look like you just slide the purple retaining pin outwards but you will still need the terminal pin removal tool to remove the pins. I used the durite multi tool and they were brilliant but you can also get an old wiper blade and use the metal insert strips as release pins. I'm sure there's a youtube video or something how to do it but you'll get a better understanding of the pin removal in this link which shows the durite tool [ATTACH=CONFIG]96512[/ATTACH]

Yes that looks like the right one but as I said to Hasan, why not email a guy breaking a car instead of buying the full gearbox which you will then need to sell on afterwards? I bet if you find someone local to you, you could get everything (apart from the polo housing) for half that. Also, just make sure you get the matching shifter, I think the physical shifter and cables are the same but the ends are different. Early has ball joint type, late has pin as per your ebay link

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like an early polo shifter which is exactly the same as the corrado one. You want the aluminium cast shifter (see pages 1 & 2), page 2 has good comparison photo's. The tower looks to be the wrong type as well, was it from a very early mk4? VW stuck the aluminium shifter housing in the lupo/caddy/polo halfway through the 6n2 (I think) build which shared the same tunnel fixings as the corrado, the mk4 mounting was different. So what you need is a late tdi/sdi in whatever model it was, think 6n2 (they are not all the correct type so be careful). I don't think they fitted any to the petrol's.

I don't know about MK5 stuff, I just stuck with MK4 as it was cheaper and does the job. You need to change everything from the gearstick to the gearbox. This guy is selling the pin type and balljoint type, maybe ask if he's got tower to go with: Pin Type Ball joint Type Just make sure whichever one you go for you get the matching tower. Shift tower but don't buy that, it's beyond extortionate, you could buy a gearbox for that. Like I said, best bet is search for someone breaking a mk4 golf and ask if he's got shifter and tower.

What are you searching for Hasan? I've just been on ebay and found 100's of shifters with cables for dirt cheap. There isn't many selectors but your best bet is go searching on ebay for 'mk4 golf breaking' and email them, same with the shifter housing from a polo/lupo. To be honest I thought it was any tower from any mk4, it's just the shift weight that is different but you can buy the TT shift weight for a shorter throw anyway. I might even have a spare tower as I changed from ball joint type to pin type. Also, people say you need a lupo/polo housing with mk4 internals, I just used a full lupo/polo setup as they look exactly the same.

You considered buying a donor Mk4/MK5 golf and just swapping everything over? It's something I'd love to do, just completely update the corrado with all modern toys and if you retrofit everything from say a mk5 gti you could easily get 300bhp+ from those TFSI engines.

If the head gasket has gone and you are not driving it why not just pull the head off and take a look. If it's cracked the block or done some other severe damage then you've had your decision made for you. Otherwise maybe decide what the future holds for your rado, if you've added cams and fancy more power it's a perfect opportunity to look at turbo and I'd imagine it's bucket loads cheaper for parts over there than here. Personally I'd stick with a 6 pot, could consider 24v but have a good read up on what's involved. The power is good but I do miss the VR6 engine

Been there but with a loom from an Audi A3 8P, my missus loved having wiring all over the living room floor! What you doing this for?

The fan controls the 3 speed but if stage 2 had gone so would stage 3... I think. Basically you have 3 positives and a negative going in, stage 1 goes through 2 resistors, stage 2 goes through 1 and stage 3 is direct 12v. But sounds like you've sorted it anyway

I would probably have to agree with the installer on the no warranty and guarantee as he's installing an alarm you are supplying. Don't Toad supply some warranty with them anyway? I have got full closure including the sunroof on mine without the module, don't know how he did it unfortunately, he might have just increased the time for locking output in a similar way that when you turn the key and hold it in position is closes window and sunroof?

Considering they are the same colours just reversed I would say so. It doesn't matter about indicators, it's just to flash the indicators on arm/disarm etc.

Try here: http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/attachments/ice-security/2286d1126885793-toad-ai606-engineers-manual-%2A%2A%2A-ai606_install-pdf Have you got a wiring diagram for the corrado? if you look on rubjonny's (club gti) downloads/documents page here he's got wiring diagrams for corrado. You'll want G3 or the Corrado titled stuff, I prefer the G3 stuff as it's easier to read. Hope that helps

I was trying to find my old snes/PS1/PS2 a while ago but seems they have either been sold or binned at some point. I think I've got some PS1 games lying around somewhere as well as xbox 1 (not 'one'.. how confusing!) games, I'll take a look.

Do not under any circumstances buy french, the build quality is so poor I would be worried about things falling off in a slight breeze. My wife had a clio dci sport thing she used to commute in and it was forever eating slave cylinders which helpfully is internal so gearbox out job and also blew a turbo by snapping the shaft completely in 2! as well as most of the interior coating peeling off and all the door seals tearing and just waving in the wind. Also, having driven it to Devon a few times, was the most uncomfortable thing I have ever had the mispleasure of being in. We now have an A3 TDI which is good, quite comfy and handles well but on motorways isn't amazing on fuel, still good for a diesel but not how I expected. The little ibiza's, lupo tdi/sdi apparently do bonkers mpg (70-80mpg), but couldn't tear the skin off custard. If you want something a little older I cannot recommend E46 320d's enough, had mine about 5 years now, just hit 205k in it and it just never skips a beat *touch wood*. It's comfy, goes well and because it's an M sport looks good as well. Doesn't have DAB but can always add it. And because they were designed for rep's just eat the motorway miles

Well the adjustment is at the engine side of the cable. Worth giving that a bit of a tweek first, but yes MK4 shifter does make a big difference. I've gone from standard to short shifter to MK4 and it's loads better than both previous.

It's not too bad, are you planning on taking the cat off? You might be able to get away with just removing the heat shield which will be a bit fiddly but I think doable. It was a while ago I did mine as I upgraded to a mk4 shifter, I think I just split the exhaust and the rest is fairly easy.

There was a guy making some LED backing lights to replace the standard rubbish but think that died of death. I'll be ripping the whole lot out this winter and replacing with mk4 golf climate control, wiring is easy and if you use don't keep recirculation and use corrado fan housing combined with mk4 main heater box you just need to move 1 bolt from the heater box and its a straight fit.

Dutchbuild is quite active on instagram and it's all custom made stuff anyway so could speak to him. The guy who built the twin engined 4motion (now R32) lupo has done a few tfsi conversions as well, could try him. Also just read about the phirm have completed a few many moons ago, definitely worth a try! I know from speaking to Vince at stealth that tuners don't like doing loom conversions for DIY'ers due to volume of unchargeable calls and advice they have to give as aftersales so might not be too willing to share knowledge or sell their special widgets, understandable really. As far as I'm aware, the standalone will run it but again it will just run it without the clever fueling stuff, think its the high pressure fuel pump and injector location. I have only seen posts about people saying how you can't do it as opposed to how you can so I may be talking rubbish.

This is something I've been considering more and more, I've gone from VR6 to R32 and to be honest I've got a bit bored of the R32. The noise is OK but its no VR6 by a long shot, mine isn't remapped yet and I do need to get a proper exhaust on it which may change my mind but by todays standards it's just not that quick. By the time I've shoved 1k+ into it on top of the money I've already spent I'm still not past 300bhp which an S3 engine could be nearer 400bhp, and they do sound awesome! I think there are probably lurkers on here who have done the conversion, I know of a few people that have done it but the biggest problem with the TFSI stuff is that you either need to transplant the full car into the corrado or do some clever coding. The engine needs to see the most of car electronics to for the clever TFSI bits to work properly and a cowboy coder will just turn things off and you are just left with an overpriced 1.8t. Unfortunately those who have done it have either paid for it to be done, or aren't really willing at this point to share their research and knowledge, for good reason I suppose. There is a facebook group of tfsi into mk1/mk2 golfs which would be a good start, and clubgti. I'd be interested to know what you find out though as it may spur me on to do something with mine!

Ahh that's not good! Well a quick google and I presume you are across the pond from the AFP engine code, although not sure where you are as I thought america got a 2.8 corrado. Anyway, we don't have mk4 12v vr6's over here in the UK so I can only go from wikipedia 'facts' but I presume it's just an OBD2 2.8 VR6. On paper you'll be about 15bhp down but on the road, the OBD2 has much better torque curve so you'll get better acceleration with slightly reduced top end grunt. Loom will need converting as mk4's have a different fusebox to mk3's/corrado's and probably some other bits, other option might be to just swap everything over from your old engine, might need a remap to run 100% but should work.

If you can get it behind the servo happy days but I just couldn't manage it as the loom seemed too big, I spent bloody hours trying to get the servo in and just pulled the wiring forward and then tucked it as far back as I could once servo was in.

They sort of run over the top, and then down the back. It's a royal pain in the arse to get the servo back in because of the loom! Hopefully this pic might be of help [ATTACH=CONFIG]95465[/ATTACH]

Sorry Jon, forgot to reply on this. I have got a version 3 which works but as my printer isn't amazing quality I had to sand the middle hole out a touch - I've ran out of filament so haven't been able to test out the latest version but might get some and try it out again.