boost monkey

The chromium will reflect a lot more heat and suffer less heat absorption from radiation. But as the manifold is just plated with it, it still has the OEM material for the main structure of the manifold and cover so to speak, so the heat conduction properties will remain the same. So it should perform slightly better than OEM... I think.

I just use my NUS card, £1.00 a litre :salute: Now how many of you believed that :lol: The 5p off every litre for spending £50 in store is a really good incentive though, I've used it a lot even when petrol wasn't very high in the past when doing Bi-monthly (isn't that a magazine? :scratch: ) shops at ~£50 a pop.

LOL @ you olds with your 80s songs :lol: Toto is where it's AT:

Front bumper area for the temp sensor. Mine's always hanging down :brickwall: Likely the MFA is reading out. Mine peaks at 12mpg, but recently got an average of 34mpg out of a tank. DOes your car run spot on? any problems to report at all? Hard to diagnose if it's just had a service plus you say it's pulling cleanly :shrug:

Said the crackhead to the dealer :lol: :lol: :lol:

Good news david, when you say "it must be removed" are you referring to the whole steering rack?

It's those 2 little bolts mate, easy peasey lemon squeezy :cheers:

So, soul = torque? :nuts: I like jap cars too, but I think you will miss the soul/character of C if you sell it.

This IS the Forced Induction thread though :lol: :lol: :lol:

Yeah I have no idea how the stud bits come out, I'm guessing drillage as per Stevo.

1. drop the exhaust and unbolt from underneath. Disconnect cables from gearbox. 2. 2 'studs' and 2 bolts. Undo those and then undo the bottom of the steering column from the U/J (universal Joint). 10mm bolt by the pedals ftw.

If it's fuelling badly, that's a problem. Not a massive problem at idle, but you'd really wanna get it sorted.

FOC + postage for the poverty stricken? :salute: :shrug:

Man, some reviews are so blinkered you'd think they were written by a shire horse :cuckoo:

Exhaust cement (if it's the stuff I think you mean) isn't really meant for filling holes, it's meant for the tiny airgaps between two sections when you slot them together. hesitation sounds like an ignition problem though, how are your plugs / leads / dizzy cap / rotor arm?

Legend, good man :salute:

:lol: They're all just rubbish really. Annoying things I have very pedantically noticed: Headlight bulb change - Guy does it from outside of the engine bay... which cars have EVER had bulbs you can plug in from the front? :nono: Paint job 1 - girl with the light blue car comes in with a scratched front wing and the guy buffs it back and resprays it to a perfect shine within about 5 seconds :nuts: Paint Job 2 - Man asks for paint for a red '68 mini. Guy says "Yes, Flame Red" and Man says "That's right! How did you know that?" IF YOU KNEW THE COLOUR, WHY DID YOU ASK FOR IT! :bad-words: :cuckoo: :lol: Wiper change - When have you ever seen a Halfords person come out in the pouring rain to change wiper blades? :hitler: Roof box - the only reason you'd have one of these is if your boot is full of dead hookers. :drinking: I know it's just an advert, but they're still all funny things. :roll: to any flamings (unless they're 1968 Mini red :lol: ) And yeah I still use Halfords tons :grin: :luvlove:

AA man is on cocaine, you can still get hold of even the bosch dizzy let alone the pattern ones. The engine in your (and my) car are in the Mk2 Golf and Jetta plus the dizzy is shared with a couple of other cars I think. When you say the dizzy seal do you mean the small rubber ring? Here is one I recently stripped out of a spare 1.8 16v engine, I think the green ring is the seal you're referring to? btw, sounds like an odd thing to go when you overheat an engine. I would expect it to jerk when it gets too hot, but not heard of the dizzy seal going before. :scratch:

A certain race team I know of adjusts their toe thusly: Attach in-house J-shaped brackets to front and rear of car, Hang aluminium poles horizontally from brackets front and rear and attach poles together with nylon string, measure distance from centre of wheel to string on both front wheels - adjust bar position until reading is identical. Repeat for rear wheels. Measure from wheel to string on leading edge of front wheels and trailing edge of front wheels and calculate toe setting accordingly. Repeat for rears if applicable to the vehicle. Adjust track rod ends on either side of car to suit. Doubt it would be massively hard to replicate this for a Corrado really. Hope this helps, Jon :salute:

Mk2 Golf rods are only adjustable one side, Corrado ones can be adjusted both sides. Maybe this is what you were thinking of? :salute:

I've broken the 600mm 1/2" drive breaker bar when doing my old golf's hub nuts, the part at the top where the 1/2" mech is pinned into the main body of the bar with a small black allen key headed shaft thing just sheared. But in fairness, I did have some scaffold on the end and it does explicitly have engraved in the bar not to do that kind of thing. I will be waiting intently for the 150 pc to come back down to 100. At this rate, perhaps it will be around September when my student loan monies kick in again. That would be really good. p.s. I find it massively hypocritical too how unhelpful halfords staff can be and find the Halfords ads in the breaks for Top Gear quite hilarious! :nuts:

Woot! congratulations buddy. Wasn't it fun trying to get it back through all the flooded country roads! :lol: :cuckoo: Good job you had a monkey for a depth gauge so to speak.

I'm not sure if you're joking or not.... did you uprate the injectors and fuel pump when you supercharged it or did you just slap it on and think it would all be puppy dogs and fluffy clouds?

Why don't you just get another sender? They're not expensive. I just sold a whole tank with a sender for £5.

Did the MOT guy not offer to check your fuel pump for correct fuel pressure or anything? :scratch: