boost monkey

Spain? I thought they were made in Mexico / Wolfsburg :s

LOL...looking back I should have seen that the water pump wasn't working properly and that this is why the hose was getting really pressurised and burst twice in a row.

Happy days! I found some really good front wings finally! They're from the Grey 16v that matt8v and robrado are stripping, and I'm chuffed that they will soon be on their way! I'm informed the other one is in good nick also. £60 for the pair and I arrange my own courier :D

So....you heat your wheel nuts until "really hot" and then cool them down rapidly to get them out. That's called quench hardening of the metal and you're in danger of making your wheel bolts very brittle. That is probably why you have experienced the bolt head shearing off from the shank. I'd recommend replacing your wheel bolts if you're doing this a lot, imo you're running them outside of their operating range and potentially introducing weaknesses into the metal due to the rapid changes in temperature. 2p.

if it throws smoke at startup but then stops, it's valve stem seals. If it's throwing smoke much more often, it is probably rings.

Ditto copper grease for when you put them back on. PlusGas is the Corrado owner's weapon of choice for loosening stuff, vastly superior to that water dispersant.

If you're planning to keep the car a few years, I would recommend doing what I did and building up a complete replacement front subframe with all the running gear (and a PAS rack if you can) and then just swapping out one weekend. It's all just bolts so it doesn't take too long :)

glad to hear it's on the mend. I inherited a mk2 jetta from my old dear cos the exact same thing happened to her and a pothole. A bit of driveshaft love and some fixings and all was well again.

For front wheel drive? no. That's a waste.

this is true. From what I've seen there are people who think it won't fit into a Corrado bay, but it does. It's not much bigger than the R32 tbh.

how did that bolt shear? sounds like an odd kind of failure.

Don't you want to buy new?

Using neuon's data, I have found this: http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h-r.com%2Fbin%2F29872.pdf it doesn't give spring rates, but seems to be a tech document based on the part number of the springs. As you can see, they're listed as Corrado VR6 (and Golf/Vento) springs with a green coating. I wonder whether you can calculate the spring rates from the wire diameter and amount of turns, knowing thay they're steel? Might give you a rough approximation. Failing that, some workshops will have a spring rate tester if they do a lot of suspension work so worth phoning some places and see if they'll do them for a tenner or something. hth.

Yeah PG is G60 and WON'T be the same as the 16v. I think the 2E engine is the 2.0 8v engine, will also be different to either of the 16v hose setups.

Nice car matey. Do you have a pressure gauge in your boost piping? I'm wondering how much pressure it's reading now that you increased the bore of the intercooler tubing (and what the reasoning behind that was?) Also, wouldn't the DTA cold start problems have been a mapping issue? I haven't heard of a lot of problems on DTA before.

Does anyone know if I can buy rear quarter glass just on its own, or does it have to come from a glass fitter? Just trying to figure out what body panels I need to get. I hate doing bodywork(!).

Ordered some wings today from the grey valver being broken which i'm really happy about. Been a long time searching for some good ones. I think I will attack the wiring first though and get that done as the first major thing as I don't ened the engine to work to check the electrics work.

Would this also work with the hazard warning light on the top of the steering column? mine is really sticky. Also, it's such a pain that there is a 5 images per post limit on this new forum. It was never like that before.Is there any chance to use photobucket's "direct link" URLs for pictures and put them in line with the text how? it's a bit fiddly reading text and then having to refer to the bottom of the post for the corresponding picture and trying to find your place back in the text.

probably some crap from the tank got sucked through the pump and it now blocking one of the lines as you ran it to empty. I'd recommend checking the lines from the tank are clear and maybe flushing the pump through with some good petrol.

Yeah, all those threads are amazing. Have you noticed how much better the R36 head is than the R32? Looks like the next Corrado engine swap....

wow, you really ARE a player.

you're making a variable length intake manifold?

My old tat for sale is turning into a bit of an epic thread! Bit like the plum thread. 10 pages of actual work, 65+ of whining! :D

managed to edit first post to reflect CPU and fan still available.

the shank is just there so that there is no thread going through the manifold section if that makes sense, so the manifold sits on a smooth section instead of a threaded one. I'm not sure if the shank stops it from going further in. I would doubt it though. It's not like VAG to design something that didn't fit very well to start with. I mean, why would they leave a gap behind the stud in the head? it would just be a massive heat spot. To know whether the mani will leak soon, we need to know which stud you snapped. If it's an end one, then it may start to blow. If it's an inner one, then it is less likely. Seems I have subscribed to this thread just by posting an answer. Retarded.