sparks

yep sounds about right i rolling roaded mine at 168 bhp @wheels with a simliar spec but havent got the cam on so yours having a cam on you might get 175 -170 at wheels noticed youve got a isv reroute i though that was a bad thing as the boost cant dump if needed by the ecu ?? im sure someone will point me out as right or wrong stu ...

mmmm not very clear that but thanks for the up load anyone else know how to set it ??

would you be a pal and tell me how to set the co pot from the bentley manual ive heard 400 ohms cold or 500 ohms hot or 500 ohms cold would someone please put me right i know its in there somewhere cheers stu .. oo the G60 modded with a sns chip 68 pulley and rsr just incase you have to make allowances for that

yeah but you missus 1.4 wont to 0-60 in 7secs new engines have no soul i love the sound of my G60 going down a build up street in 2nd gear sweet whoomm whooom whooom everyone i know nows when im coming up lol

the whistle is the excees boost going passed the bypass only on full foot to the floor throttle does the bypass shut totally i get it if i floor it and then back off quickly its a normal sound

never ran it on anything else as most will say on here boost and high octane mix well high boost and low octane equals melted pistons if things go wrong

20 mpg around town and 28 mpg at a steady 80 mph thats on a G60 with sns chuck the fuel in chip and 68 pulley lol i try to drive it steady but she keeps asking for more !!!

or bigger cams boost is only representation on how much the air the engine isnt using

hi Iain get yourself over to swgmotorsport.com they sell the twin filter kit vent to open air is not a problem due to there is always boost pressure coming out the hose unless on full load and then the flap is shut but you need to filter vent the crank case pipe and the isv valve also you then need to spary ptfe in the charger ever 1000 miles or so depending on your driving style "smiles"

wow you took the front end off i just took mine out from the engine bay admitedly you have to remove the lights and fan housing off and some boost pipe work but taking the front end of seems abit excessive

bite the bullet and change the rad there 105 from gsf and you will probly find that your radator fixing clips the one that bolt to the front slam and clip into the rad has causes the leak it did it on mine sometime people tighten the clip on the eblow side too much and it pierces the plastic rad mine was like this useful tip is to grind about 3 mm off the clips and refit to prevent it happening !!!

ahhhhhhhh rad changed new coolant job done temps on oil are know around 100 normal driving going up to 104 106 after a bit a spirited driving but then cool back down to 100 -98 after before it would just get up to 110 driving around town the fun bit was changing the rad with out the manual took me 2 hours to work out which bolt was holding it where i had the lights out the horns out air box off grill off half the super charging pipes off and about to take front slam panel off when i noticed 2 screws holding the plastic cowling to the rad took them off and the rad fell out practicily ooo haynes how i cursed you for not making a manual

well if its a g60 one there expensive cus of it running off the supercharger belt i was getting quotes of around 150 to 190 exchange

thanks mine a stage 4 some one stop me from stage 5 ing it red top injector 65 pulley and new fmc oops there goes 1500 pounds lol

nope ive got an early shape with a 90 amp on with no air con seems to be what ever vw had in the parts bin at the time

probly done to cut down on drag being as the engine bay is a huge bucket bolted to the front of the car

mmmm thinking surely is my rad failing my water temp would be higher ??? on a recent run i had only 80-90 on the water temps getting confused.com someone help ill change the rad but at 105 quid do i really need to if the problem is else where !! if the rads at fault does the temp go though the roof ? cheers stu ..

the rad pretty old and slighty leaks on the top plastic eblow only very slightly like i see the odd white corroded mark there trying to save for a radtech rad and intercooler all in one but at 850 notes finding it hard and something always comes up before it (£200 of water pump didnt help) so i kinda know the rads passed it might have to take the plunge and buy a new rad for the short term to kill the temps although winters coming soon and that should help mmmm going to call gsf see how much the rads cheers stu ..

[Re: need info on g60 charger New postby psiburr » 02.09.2010, 23:12 I did a 4 hour round trip and waited while it was done :) mines my daily so nooo way I can do without.] just out of interest how much did it cost if you dont mind me asking cus mine a daily too and ive got like 8k miles left before a 30 k service cheers stu ...

thats been around for a while i was going to fit one to my k jet scirroco but was advise to drill the duck out the air box and fit a panel filter much cheaper

ahhhh it is fixed water pump failed must have been on the way out and not pumping enough of the cool stuff around hence making the oil work harder took it for a blast yesterday at 100 mph on a private stretch of road i know (the m6 lol) and it rose to about 126 deg but then stay steady there dropping down to 124 and back to 126 and even better news cus i fitted a new stat its not opening till 87 which brings off the cold map lovely so better mpg the old stat must have been passing cus it never got above 80 before and i think the cold map starts to come off at 70 (someone correct me if im wrong) stu ....

worth a note that if you fit vibratech all around you do get more torque steer cus the engine stays as steady as a rock i recently found this out cheers stu...

i was told to always set it at 500 on cold cus everyone car can run differently at hotter temps hence the set when cold someone tech out there to clear this up maybe ??? stu ...

mmmm might clean the termial on the sender i thinks first like i say i had only evey seen it go 135 when racing it normal like yourselfs 116 at 80mph cheers stu .. anyone got the vw part number for the oil sensor

hi guys /girls while driving last night at a steady 80mph for a while like an hour the oil temp rose to 134 deg C i know it was a warm night 24 degs C but never seen it that high for that speed i have an oil cooler fitted mounted next to the rad so just wondering what if anything could make it shoot so high usually i have about 120 reading at that speed the water temp was fine at 80 deg C so basically am i worrying about nothing or is the engine running hot for some strange reason ?? what do you people get on your oil temp gauge at that speed runing a G60 with 68 and standard intercooler and sns chip cheers stu....