16VG60

New order of JMR solid alloy front mounts due in this week, these will be available for order immenantly. These mounts can be ordered in either alloy finnish or blue annodised. To date this has proved to be a very well received product both economically and operationally. I would hope by now that having sold a considerable number of these mounts, many of which to forum users, that any fears of undue vibration have been laid to rest and only the positive factors that these mounts have to offer stand. I look forward to hearing fom you.

MarioVR6, I am a Milltek supplier and can offer Forum members Sport Cats for £285 plus £15 p&p. A significant saving over your £400 quote :shock: I have allready supplied a number of these Sport Cats to Forum members and they have been very pleased with the results. I look forward to hearing from you.

The part no. for the rear beam bushes as fitted to the G60 is 191 501 541 and they are £32.70 each from VW.

MILLTEK, MILLTEK, MILLTEK, :D These systems sound great right through the rev range without being obtrusive, given that a sports system is what you require. Some might suggest, that of course i would say this being a supplyer of this product, but then i have tried all the others and found Milltek product and after sales service to be the best. Milltek systems will help to allow your engine to breath better, and therfore will give a proportionate % increase to engine output. I have many happy customers running Milltek systems on their Corrados, alot of these are on this forum, all of whom are satisfied with the sound. If you are after sound track of a Milltek in action i'm sure somone on here will obligue, if not there was a recording released by John Wintle of my 16VG60 running a Milltek custom built twin outlet system. I am sure that there will now follow a whole stream of opinions from which you will be able to read. Let's hope the spelling checkers are not onto this thread :lol: At the end of the day if you know in your mind what it is you require by way of looks, sound etc then the only way of finding it is to get some first hand experience.

Rich, I have the VW specific rear axle bush removal and installation tool and will gladly carry out this task for you if you wish it. Interested? Give me a call. At the moment i am replacing these bushes on a regular basis every week for my customers. Without this tool i can imagine the job to be as you all describe it so vividly!

The Mk1 oil cooler is sadly not compatible with the Corrado G60 install mainly due to general configuration and installation probs. The idea of an oil to air cooler was a much better concept than the woeful offerings as standard on the G60' even if it was found to be a little wanting on the EG engines . The Stat on the MK1 was set to start opening at 110 deg C and fully open at 125 deg C, so not at all ideal for our needs. I offer an oil cooler kit inclusive of a thermostatic sandwich plate, set to open at 70 deg C, for £145 plus P&P and can offer full installation service if required. This is a popular install, and vital for G60 engines be they standard or modified.

If the brake fluid level is low then it probably is indicative that your brake linings are worn, this is assuming no leaks are evident of course. It would be wise to check your brakes fully for wear before being satisfied with a top up.

A common problem with the Corrado is that the handbrake warning light earth contact switch becomes loose on it's mount to the handbrake. The switch is held to the handbrake by a single plastic barbed pin, this becomes worn and loose and allows the switch to no longer be acted upon by the handbrake. Replacement is the only proper cure and the switch costs £3 from dealer. Sadly the early style switches have been replaced by an updated part so one also has to get the wiring and plug to update the loom. This is a nominal cost also and therefore not a major concern.

For standard good quality HT leads i have found the genuine dealer items to be very good. I hasten to add however, do not buy the Quantum alternatives that dealer can supply as these are very poor. If you are looking at uprated aftermarket leads buyer beware! There is a myriad of HT lead manufacturers out there alot of which are total rubbish, look great but are crap all the same. I chuck so many of these sets in the bin on a regulatr basis, that are the cause of misfiring and engine running faults. The only upgraded aftermarket HT leads that i have found to be worthy of their claims and 100% reliable in use are Nology Hotwires. Despite the fact that they are expensive i would still say that they offer good VFM, and are a genuine upgrade offering long life and reliability. Whichever items you choose be sure that they have the proper shielded OE terminals for the plugs and cap termination. Make sure that they can be vouched for by another owner that has had them installed for at least two years without any trouble whatsoever. One anoying fault with poorly manufactured leads is the ends parting from the terminals when the lead is removed for servicing, despite using plug lead tool. Good luck.

Give TSR a call, they offer the B&M short shift kit for the Corrado. I fitted one of these a fair while ago now and with a little fettling have found the result to be satifactory. If you get one of these kits let me know and i will gladly offer you some tips on the install. The MK2 Golf kit is not suitable for the Corrado because it uses a totally different gear shift mechanism. The Corrado is cable shift, while the Golf MK2 is rod change.

I have had a number of enquiries asking if this RS4 / RS2 front and intercooler conversion was a one off for Woody? I offer this kind of work to all interested parties, indeed i have carried out this conversion a number of times now and wellcome your interest. There are numerous options open to you when carrying out this conversion, ie oil coolers, re-location of the radiator, second air intake for G charger and of course individual styling, i am happy to discuss your individual requirements.

I agree with Kevin on this point ref using Powerflex bushes with my JMR Alloy front mount. This would be overkill and totally unwarranted. The idea behind using this mount is for it to be offered up as a straight swap, that will work in harmony with the other OE components. By all means however it would be acceptable to replace these bushes for new OEM parts, if change is required.

Hi Mark, i would be happy to discuss with you the ways by which you could improve the performance of your G60. There are a number of well publicised tweeks to be done to the engine , all of which have been chewed over many times on this forum, but i would suggest we also look at the suspension and associated bushes as well. These components, if still the OEM items, will be very tired at best and well overdue for replacement. You would be amazed by the perceived improvement to the overall performance a complete suspension and bush replacement can make. Sounds daft maybe, but if you are able to carry greater speed into corners, apply the power with better control over traction, and brake later without the front end diving into the deck you will see the true handling capabilities of your G60 restored for the first time since new. I look forward to hearing from you. Regards, John. JMR 07974 020031

The crossmember to which the front engine mount fits, is itself rubber mounted to thre chassis, therefore there is sufficient compliance inbuilt to prevent such dangers as stress fracturing. These mounts do offer a genuine improvement to engine stability and the tranfer of drive to the wheels. If any of you wish to proceed with a purchase send me a PM with your requirements.

The manifolds on the 1.8 and two litre 16V engines are interchangeable. The main difference is the presence of a CO sampling pipe on the 2 litre item. This will not present a problem if the cahange is 2.0 ltre to 1.8 litre. In any case this pipe is very often not used, other than by folks like me, and if push comes to shove go for it. The porting on the 2.0 litre manifold is much better so indeed you might see a slight improvement. If you are unable to move on this manifold i am currently looking for some of these 2.0 litre items myself.

Have had mixed responses from experience of generic Lambda probes, as seen fitted to a number of VW's presented for work. This fact allone tells me that OEM part is worth the money. So you might have to spend another £20 to £30, but you know it will be right and will last for another 40,000 miles. "You get what you pay" for is a well used quote, but very applicable in this case.

Grinding and Sqealing when used together in the same sentance to describe the sound of any engine makes my teeth curl! You say it is comming from the pulley end of the lower engine, are you sure this is an internal fault? Check all the external pulleys and components first. It could be a loose pulley creating the grinding and the loss of belt tension the squealing. This noise could also be attributed to a shot water pump and the grinding would be caused by the pump impeller against the pump body and again the squealing the loss of belt tension. If it is being caused by the oil pump it would be a first for this kind of failure in my experience, but hey there's a first for everything. If it is the oil pump then do not run the engine any more, because a seized oil pump will lock it's cam belt driven pulley and then strip the cam belt and in turn destroy your engine. I am assuming you drive a 4 cylinder engine Corrado, the consequences are simmillar but not the same for the VR6. Good luck with finding your problem.

Jim, one area you might check if you can not detect an exhaust leak at the gaskets is firstly the flexible joint at the top of the front pipe which has a tendancy toi fracture. The other area that might be of concern is a gas leak at the CO pre-cat sample pipe which is capped by a blue bung. These at the age of our cars now are starting to perish and i have had to replace a few now that have given simillar symptoms to that which you describe. If you find that the front pipe is deffective and want to retain the standard part i do have a number of OE front pipes or indeed stainless high flow replacements. In my experience if you are smelling the unmistakable odour of petrol fumes then indeed you must have a fuel leak, or a tank breather pipe allowing fumes to escape. Do you still have the OE carbon cannister fitted? If not check that the breather pipe from the tank has been re-routed back into the airbox or simillar. If you still have the OE set up then check the breather connections and pipework. The G60's are famed for the fuel hoses perishing at the fuel rail connections, both the supply and return hoses perish internally and allow a fuel to weep from these areas. The only cure is to replace with OE items and proper fuel hose clamps, not jubilee clips. Good luck with your remedy to this problem, both areas are potentially life threatening and will need attention immediately.

So have you checked your rear beam bushes? if you think these are grim, i'm sure you will find the beam bushes even worse ! All worthwhile being done if you are seeking to regain the acclaimed handling wqualities of the Corrado as new.

To fail the MOT test your exhaust would have to be leaking / blowing gasses from a point other than the intended exit or be insecure on it's fittings for one or another reason. The outer skin being corroded is not a reason for rejection unless it brings other factors into the equation.

Yep, right up to the point when it starts to rain and then the Corrado becomes a much more preferable option once more :lol:

Matt, there is a a fair concentration of Corrado owners in Sussex of which i am one. A good number of us meet at the Fox pub in Patching West Sussex on the last Sunday of every month. This is the local Club GTI meet but is open to allcommers. We all enjoyed a great day yesterday and will look forward to seeing you next month.

I think you will find these come without intructions, mainly because they are self explanitory. Happy to offer help if required, but you should find that they fit like for like. they do include a pack of replacement parts. These are swapped over with the OE seat washers. As regards height setting this is a personal requirement and i would suggest you equalise all the units to give a base setting, and then carry out adjustmebnt to your liking from this point. Good time by the way to fit new strut top mounts. Once fitted and you are happy with the ride height make sure you get your camber and alignment adjusted. Good luck.

Just been reading through this thread ref your thoughts on fitting oil coolers. I have fitted Mocal kits to Corrados for some time now and have allways taken the stance that the objective is to improve the cooling of the oil. So why is it that some of you want to leave the original water fed item in place, when this offers minimal cooling and indeed acts moreover as a heater? Furthermore if the OE cooler is to be left in place just to accomodate the hoses surely this makes the fit a right mess. Personally i find that the nut welded to the base of the G60 filter is most useful when removing these units, given the tight access, so why would anyone want to cut it off? If you are fitting a cooler kit surely this is recognition that the oil cooling on the G60 is poor at best and thefore complete replacement of the OE system is the only option. After all the OE cooler is easy to remove, and one has then the choice of either using pre water fed cooler hoses or making a pipe to link the hoses that would have fed the OE cooler. Done this way the install takes on OE appearance and quality, offering a good operational fit, whilst being able to accomodate the correct G60 filter unadulterated.

Timo, hopefully not long to wait now. Watch this space for further info, on the JMR alloy VR6 front mounts.