andycowuk

i've got BMW wheels.....but from what I gather not alot of people like them.......then again, not a lot of people drive or pay for my car so I dont tend to worry about their opinions too much :-P Borbet B's Other wheels I like but like phat says it depends a huge amount on the car they are on: Azev A Schmidt Revolutions Borbet A Borbet C There si bound to be more...

just to let you know, incase you are interested in uprated front mount, I have bought a few from EIP tunning in the states. They are getting sent on the 18th (thats the most recent update) so should be available to post on to any buyers by the new year. Untill I find out how much the Gordon Brown factor is, I cant give an exact price, but I am almost 100% sure it would be less than £70 delivered. Let me know if you wnat me to keep one for you (invite extened to anyone!) A F/S post will be made when i know the exact price.

ur pics make it look easy, and I know it isnt. That looks like a super job you are doing there! :salute:

lol...its not the response u want to hear, but my GF makes insurance cheaper! at least with elephant it does..... so she is insured on a few of my mates cars too!!!!

you only need the o-ring if you take of the bracket as I describe......its only a pound or so from the dealer. I have the part number (twice) in my folder of reciepts.......along with all bolts, should you have any probs. All bolts and o-ring should be less than £20 from vag.

I found it easier to remove the charger bracket on outlet side.... both the uper and lower, undo the 4 bolts on the pulley end then and pull the charger straight out complete with standard pulley. You will need to get a replacement for the o-ring that lives under the bracket in all the other engines that use that block. Also it is well worth replacing all 10 allen head bolts you undo to get teh charger out - it makes life soooo much easier if it needs to come out again for any reason. I have attached your pic again, with some excellently drafted guides... :lol: MSM me if u need a hand...

:shock: bloody hell - u should go out nd get afew lotto tickets too; your luck is in mate!

You are right about the price gav, but the chip isnt very much, and then there is the pully that isnt very much on top of that, and then I have the standard intercooler........ It may sound silly or even slightly anal, but I am happy to spend £80 to make sure everything is in tip top shape, and then go on to do the modifiactions. At £80 for 4, I will get mine cleaned, and if any are beyond repair, I will take yours off your hands. dr_mat, wouldn't be a problem.

Is ther water in the pipe that goes to the top of the radiator? Usually to get rid of any air in the system, I just squeeze that pipe over and over, with the lid on the expansion tank.

I have been quoted around £20 per injector to get them cleaned and tested.....a bit more than I had thought! I have never had this done before, so dont know if this is a good or bad price - anyone care to comment? Thanks

Just speaking to biggrim on MSM about my trip up north when I realised that my dull headlamps may infact have saved the life of a deer, the car, and maybe even myself and two passengers....... I was driving up to Wick last Friday night. The A9 was clear up till just north of Avimore, tthen the snow was on. Not too bad TBH, on dual carriageways overtaking lane had a thin layer of snow, but normal lane was clear. Getting into Inverness it was bit worse, with fast lane too deep to drive in, and normal lane with two thin black tracks. There had been a fatal accident :( on the A9 just north of inverness, so we were diverted via Dingwall...about 15 miles extra....and tbh, the roads were much clearer...so got on with things..... In the last 30 miles the snow got really bad, really fast....anyway... snow got to about 3 inches deep on the road, and as I was the only car, as it was after 12 by this point, there were no tracks. So I am following the verge with one eye, and looking the 10 - 15m i could see in front of me in the snow with the other, traveling at around 40mph. I come to this long left hand bend and half way round, see a deer in the middle of the road looking at me...... "oh shit" says I... So i straighen the wheel and let the car go across to the other side of the road, behind the deer........cept there was another one standing behind it! :pale: .... ...heres were the dull lights save the day........normally such a beast would mesmorised by the bright lights coming toward it.......but no....both of the Deer think to themselve....."man, those lights are dull; I'm outta here." And so I made it home..... 8) :lol:

Gav, that sounds like a plan. Will get all eight cleaned and tested, then use the best four - I wont need to return them to you if they are not the problem - quite happy to spend the money and know that things are in good shape. Luckily I have a bosch service centre about 200 yards along the road......just next door to the VW dealer! 8)

Me and Joe were discussing this on MSN last night. Injectors are original, I have recently run a load of injector cleaner through the last couple fo tanks, but they havent been tested for flow or spray pattern in last year. How can I get them tested without being car-less for a couple of days - can i take the rail and injectors out, and apply 12v to injector harness and spray petrol into a basin onto of the engine? - how does the rail attatch to the fpr again, i forgot!?!?!?

stevemac, the timing was not set to an absolute value. I just drove it, watched the boost gauge and listed for pinking. I set it as far advanced as I could then backed it off a bit, and reduced the co pot from 550 to 480. While the w5dpo plugs may well be better for the job, the first plot was on w6dpo, so i would expect to be able to come close to a repeat of this run without changing the plugs. The first plot is on optimax, and I am certain the second one is too. The third is on BP ulitmate, and todays which, as I say is slightly better, was on ESSO Super 98 ron, that I came across at a filling station in Thurso last weekend, so if anything should be better.

Do you mean that the rollers adjust the figures reletive to the ambient temp? Surely they would scale it on a linear basis, and therefore would just move the cuve up and down the power/torque axes, and not alter the curve shape. Darren, taking into account the ambient temps, (and assuming they are correct) would you say that I am chasing a problem that dosent exist? I want to make sure everything is sweet before I do some more mods, if it is heat soak, then the fmic will solve it, but what I dont want to do is mask a problem with a mod. Oh, and my bloody door handle broke today as well. :roll:

they guy had a digital thermometer sitting on the computer, it read 11 deg. The static air temp in my engine bay may have been 23, but surely the moving air being drawn into the charger is not that temp...it felt bloody cold on my ancles! The only two things that went into my engine bay were the magnetic clip thing round the ht lead for RPM, and a boost tube onto the small hose from manifold to FPR. the 23 degrees, were definately not in my engine bay!

The power and torque figures are not in question, the differences in the torque curve shapes are.

EDIT - The title should perhaps be renamed "Shriveling torque curve" but to save any confusion I will just leave it. Hi All, This is going to be a bit of a monster post.......I can tell already! I cant say I have a problem, because everything is working fine :lol: , but I will call it a situation... I have had my car on the rollers 4 times this year, and not once the results have been the same. Even over the last 4 weeks, I have done afew things to the car, but still the peak torque has dropped by 300rpm.. I haven't scanned todays plot yet, but I will get it up tonight or tomorow. This is the best by far. Not only are they the best figs, but more importantly the torque curve is nice and flat, and goes all the way up to about 5700rpm before it tails off. The next time it was done was in april, and the numbers are pretty close to Jan's but the curve has kind of died off at the end, and the torque tails off after 5400prm. I would be inclined to blame that on the boost which appeared to be down on Jan. So I checked for leaks, and replaced all of the rubber hoses from the manifold. I also replaced the fuel pump for a new one incase it was that. I got the third one done last month and it is by far the worst. The peak torque fell to 4410rpm, and the area under the graph is much smaller that before. I changed the complete distributor, and leads expecting it to be hall sender related, and it does feel much better to drive. The plot from today is a bit better with a better area underneath, but the peak torque is now at 4090rpm. Anoyingly there is no boost plot on the last two prints, but the boost gauge currently indicates around 0.8 bar before bleeding just at the red line. The things I can think that I have done to the car, that have a bearing on all this is: Stg 4 G-Werks charger, RSR outlet - Std Corrado IC. P&P Head/Charger/TB Boost return Removed, carbon canister removed. 4 Branch Stainless steel exhaust header, Super sprint system. in the last year - lamda probe, Plugs in the last 6 months - fuel pump & filter, Knock sensor, Lamda Harness in last month - complete distributo, HT Leads SO, any ideas? And thanks for reading!!! Cheers

lol.... i just bought a load of EIP engine mounts to sell....should be here in next week or so.....postage came to $180!!!! Oh, also..... I got a Schrick Baffled sump from BBM, i didnt get it posted tho, my mum was on holiday in seatle and took it back for me. cost about £110 for the item.

eeek,..... i have been driving round all this time without even having brake kites :shock:

i am about to take in around 10 EIP solid mounts from the states....within the next week or so.....if you can hold on - should be under 70 notes (just).

i've got it and it seems like good stuff. I got it from C&R enterprises, but there are other places.

[flame proof suit] I have had this wistle for ages... iirc even before i removed boost return, but i recently got around to removing cc piping, and it got a load worse. Today, after getting poor numbers on the rollers, i was having a play with the ignition timming, I have retarded it a bit, and the whistle has all but gone. I still get it a bit, on about 3/4 throttle, ataround 1.5-2k but not as loud. I suspect i may have ben my ISV. [2nd flame proof suit, for good measure]

any one gonna report him to ebay? Beleive me its not a good feeling when you realise your car is an ex write off :mad: :mad: :mad: . But to be stung the best part of £8k!?!!?!!??!!?? madness! :shock: :shock:

I have come to my own conclusion about mpg with boost return removed. Mechanically, there is no reason for the boost return to affect the mpg, all you are doing is redirecting air that you engine isnt using anyway. I think the change in mpg is entirely down to the driving style. you need to have your foot almost to the board for the boost to build up, and give u the tish for each gear change. I noticed when driving my mates car the amount of pull i am used to when driving round normally just wasnt there (its a civic vti). I know that there are obvious differences in the cars(!) but, what i realised was, the amount of pull, is directly proportional to the amount of petrol being used, and although i wasnt reving the tits out the raddo all the time, basically I was driving with a digital right foot! :oops: Once i got over this, my mpg went up by about 7-8 around town. HTH (and makes even a little sense!!!)