andycowuk

at what point does a car become a pile of scrap metal, that a scrap metal merchant can take? Vehical dismatelers must remove oil, plastics, rubber etc before the car can be crushed. If u have a bare shell, then it could be a different story, no?

your mods could possiblt have altered the power curve, in a way that has increased the mid range torque at the cost of top end power. how did peak torque compare to standard? how did ur torque curve compaire to ur mates golf?

Just got it in, with coverage of Kames and Curborough Club Gti events. My car is in it! yay! thats never happened before, i am no longer a car-in-a-mag virgin!!! woooo hoooo! :lol: pg 23, top center. also pictured in that nine that i know, are PhatVR6 and Curouzin, bottom left and top right respectively. I got a mension in the Kames coverage, but no pics unfortunately!

i like it when that happens........ especially the second bit, where people tell you they noticed your car!

no probs joe!

wow! impressive! what is the bore like then???

just 2 nuts, there are threaded studs stick out the top of the dash and thu the bulk head as above.

6 and half a dozen...... it aint much fun removing the front bumper and everything if you dont have to. You can put the ball joints back in and set it down again in two mins..... but point taken, and duley noted for future consideration!!!

not to bad actually, u will need a dinky siocket set with a universal joint, or sinse u are breaking the car, with the wiper mech out it might not be so bad. Just two nuts, about 1/3 of the way in from either side. There are aslo afew screws that hold the dash in just below where the blue and orange wires cross in the dial recess. Did you get those?? they threw me when I was taking grims dash out, cos the dont point the same way as every other screw holding the thing in! good luck

what would you want for the sound proofing that lives under the passenger side carpets, along the exhaist tunnel, and on the lower left side of the bulk head? (assuming it is dry)

its pretty easy really with the right tools..... Jack up car onto axle stands, remove all bolts from inner CV joints, pop bottom ball joints, and pull hub and drive shaft away from the dif. remove exhaust manifold, on 16v this is easier than on g60 due to inlet manifold. Unplug wiring and waterhoses to heater matrix remove bolts from the 3 engine mounts, put weight of engine onto the engine crane, and remove the engine mount brackets completely, lift out the engine. Will come out if you make the engine hang at an angle so the gearbox is lower than the sump. Can be done easy in a few hours as long as exhaust manifold bolts behave themselves.

I been on Knockhill, Kames and Curborough in my C, and I love it. Kames and Curborough are both tight technical courses, that you really need to be precise in, which is cool. Knockhill is a full blown racing circuit, and u can really get flying on it, which is also a lot of fun, but in a different way. The shorter 'trial' type tracks even out any small to medium differences in speed between cars, but show up handling characterisitics. The longer tracks, let the fast cars look much better than they may be, just cos u spend a good bit of time at full bore. In that respect i kindda like the short courses better. But if u are just enjoying yourself, and not worried about whos looks faster i couldnt choose! although I suppose on the track, a fast car is the car that gets round quickest on the day..... not the faster 0-60.

let me just reinforce what henny said...... they are a total bugger to get at.

the sealing face on the head on my car was all pitted, so I smeared in a load of blue instant gasket. It really depends on what its like once you take it off. The front flange is held in by hex key headed bolts, if these are rusted and difficult to get out, it may be an idea to replace them too as they might cause big problems for you if there is a next time. Remember not to over tighten the bolts on the front and the nuts on the side.

i have put them in all my golfs and my c, infact I have plastic bushes in the c. I dont like "passive rear steering" (read "slop") in a car. I and everyone who has been in my car would agree it is far from intolerable - What suspension kit do u run? Edit - Actually lets not tun rmn's 'how to' thread into a 'what do u like' thread.

the rears are a lot of fun! U need a drill, a blow tourch, a big hammer and a big screwdriver/chissel and a hacksaw. Drill round the sleeve in the middle of the bush a good few times, then burn the bush for 5 mins.......make various jokes your mate about the religious connections to the burning bush. Beat f**k out of the bush with the hammel and chissel....till the sleeve and rubber come out. You probably will have to repeat the burning and the drilling, so there is ample opertunity for the burning bush jokes. Once the rubber is out, you are left with the outer bit that got pressed in when adam was a lad, so its going nowhere fast. Take the blade off the hack saw, thread it throught the beam and re-attatch it. saw the sleave as much as you dare without damaging the beam..... u can go right through at the top and bottom, but u will probably struggle to do it all the way through. Once u have done as much sawing as you can, on the edge of the sleave that was pressed in first, and would come out last, hit one side of the cut in towards the center, this should then give you a little gap to get ur screwdriver/chissel into, and start beating again, with the aim to split/tear the sleave right up the saw line. It will probably pop out before you split it all the way up. Use a bit of sand paper to smooth it off. Lager the new bush and the inside of the beam with copper slip, and the new bush (assuming its a powerflex one) will go in no bother just by hand, once its in an inch or so it gets tight, so u tap it home with the hammer, then insert the new metal sleeve. Two things to watch...... the brake bias spring mount gets in the way of the left one, and can be a bugger to take off if it the nuts and bolts are corroded badly. Have spare nuts and bolts. The copper brake lines have a habbit of twisting, u can fail MOT for that. Have ur blow tourch and some wd40 ready for undoing the union nuts. Be prepared to have to replace the copper. Have new flexi hoses if they havent already been done recently. before u put the beam back on......(and i cant remember which side is best here) it is best to attach one side of the flexi hose while access is easy(er) hope this is helpful for u, and doesnt put u off!!!!! If it all goes well, and hour and a half should see it all done....... if it goes bad, be prepared to be the best part of a whole day at it!

1st hing is to change ur brake fluid and bleed thoroughly..... there are nipples on the master cylender, abs pump and each of the calipers, bleeding should be done with the abs pump on. Once you get this problem, are your brakes really hot?? the calipers could be binding, and after a bit the discs warps, once it cools, it goes true again. hth

hmm.... and after realising I was wrong....... I went to my stealer on the way past to get the part nos for you......... up to chassis code P - 191 959 481 C - £20.46 + vat P onwards - 1H0 959 481 B - £17.xx + vat its odd........I havent been wrong sinse........sinse........ the last time I was wrong....... and it isnt getting any easier!! :lol: :oops: Edit - aw man, I cant even grammar get my right this day.

I am right am I not? :)

I dont think that there is anything in the back of the radiator. Are you looking for a water temp sender? The thermostat? or something for the radiator fan?

i re-used them on mine, with no troubles I guess it depends on how easy they come off, and what you use to take them off, and what they're like once they're off.

I did a bit of playing about with the quotes..... if u put ur occupation as librarian or accountant, or other "boring" job then it saves u money. A SP30 didnt make a difference at all

there are loads of threads about the temp sensor and vac lines

I had the dip in RPM, and then put in some extra earth straps, and it was better, but not completely gone. When I was putting in my air/fuel gauge, I found 2 interesting things: 1)the wire that connects to the engine mount is just a ground plane that runs along side the actual signal line, it doesnt connect to the ECU at all. 2) the whole lamda harness was rotten. I cut out the connector block, cut back the wires a bit, and put on spades, I now get about 5mpg more round town. I still get the dip occasionally, but I can treally say I have noticed a trend to indicate why I get it. Your problem tho, could be equally atributed to the normal G60 flaws - the vac lines and the blue temp sender. Have you checked them?

Heading north about 3:30-4pm on the A9, on the long straight between the two Dornoch turn offs. Blond in a VR..... I flashed and you smiled :wink: :lol: