andycowuk

the back end on mine is REALLY bad in the wet, there are at least two good reasons for this! I have crappy back tyres....Falkins, vs A539s on the front.[/*:m:e53e1] compared to the front springs, the back ones are reletively hard.....so the front digs in, but the back steps out. I could address this in a few ways A) get softer rear springs B) get harder front springs c) get better front ARB[/*:m:e53e1] One semi useless piece of info worth noting, i am certainly guilty of it too.....is that if you are loosing the back end in the wet...its because you are slowing down on the corner - you should ideally be off the brakes before you turn in, and back on the power as soon as the car has turned in.......not always as easy as that tho! what condition are your shocks, tyres, bushes and bearings in?

I read this earlier on, and thought...mmm, i have seen people look, but never really given any thought to who or what was looking....... I just went out to the shops, and all I can say is that driving at warp factor 4 does not lend itself to this kind of survey!!!

i really doubt they are bottoming out...i dont run bumpsdtomps at all, and i def dont bottom out....but it depends on the spring rating. I wouldnt bother taking the struts off again,until u r really sure that it is not the exhaust or rear beam bushes. when u uprate the suspension, it is obviously a much less smooth ride, no matter who made your kit, this rougher ride means the exhaust rubbers do a bit more work - if they were half shot b4, that'll be the prob.....i have to do mine too!

When i put my struts on they were also fine for about a week, but then started to clunk...I found it was the sloted nut on the top of the strut that had come a bit loose, allowing play between the top mount and the strut (the top mount was tight as this was the first bit i checked!) Other than that, i recon it'll be your exhaust.

Darren, delighted for you!! :D :D Hope the 3 of u are all ok! :thumb right: Congratulations!

I have a couple of ideas that spring to mind....and I am sure there is another one coming....... I, likeKing_prawn, am not sure that which way for richer on the co pot.... I would try putting it to the rich extreme for a test to make sure your not running lean, which gives a much hotter explosion. My second thought is less plausible, because of the work you've had done, but do you know that you have good compression?? When the h/g went on my last car, the water pipes pressurised (really hard) once I had been a drive, but were ok at idle......are there any other signs that this may be the case? When does the pressure ease.....can you drive, get hot, then idle and it cools? or do you have to turn off so it can cool? One final thought, is that the glycol in the antifreeze is for exactly that purpose....antifreeze, water on its own has better cooling properties, could i recomend you trying to increase the water in the mixture, and perhaps try some of that water wetter stuff......I dont have it but afew peeps have said its funky sh*it! HTH (even a little!)

u can bet I'll be round for a poke at your machine!

Thats looking gr8, I cant wait to see it onfront of me! u must be pretty proud of your work!

How can I let this moment of glory slip........ 8) There is a couple of vids of my car here..... :D http://www.andycowuk.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

i see. thanks. very much enlightened!

dr_mat, I'm curious...please fill the blanks for my benifit :?: also, I have noticed (probably later than everyone else as usua) this is like in the playground at an infant school...my dad could beat up your dad.......:lol: Metaphorically speaking, we are all here because we love our dads anyway, why is it the G60 and VR peeps get all anoyd about whos is best but the valvers are just content with what they have! Edit: I just read over that and realise that the above sentance implies that the VR and the G60 are better than the other 3, i dont mean that, I just mean u never get involved in this arguement!!!

u spent well ovr a grand on the vr, and only couple of hundred on the g60! I bet both of them...even in standard for made u smile nice a big!!

I was at track school last night at Knockhill, after we had followed the instuctor in a pace car, we had an hours free track time. During this hour each of the 12 students had a 121 with one of the 3 instuctors, where you could let him drive the car so you could see what could be done....... There were two of the instuctors' comments in particular that made me smile...... Standing in the paddock there were a load of other good, even exotic cars TVR Cerbra, Noble, Elise, Porsche 968, EVO 8. It was odd.....i was standing drooling over a TVR, and a yellow motorsport Elise with those yokohama road legal cut slicks, and smiling stupidly at the noble, the instuctor asked me what car was mine.....I said the corrado....he went "ooohh". To say I was surprised by this response is an understatement! Then later when we were out on the track and he was driving mine.......having driven the other cars for only 3 laps.....he said to me at the end of the third....."do you mind if I go another couple, this is the best fun I've had all night!" I obliged as his driving was excellent to watch and be part of! I had a good night!! (a couple of vids from last night can be seen here) Just wanted to take another oppertunitu to big up the C!!! :D :D :D

it will more than likely be the normal g60 storey...basically...check the vac line that goes from the throttle body to the ecu.....there ar loads of threads on this already have a search for that too. HTH

I am not sure u have done the right thing....your unit of measurement is wrong! you should be testing for resistance between the body and the wire, not voltage.....is that what you did? with the wire diesconected at both ends, there should be no voltage difference, because there is no source.

the bits you can do yourself are easy on the head are fairly easy....sept getting the colletes off the valves can be a proper pain in hte arse...they've been quite happy there for around 12 years, and arn't too kean on changing therir ways! you will need oto get an engineering worshop to put new valve guides in, and they will re- seat the valves and make sure they are straight for you too....You should macke sure they know not to re-profile the valves too much, as they have a lithium core....for cooling apparently. Its the bottom end thats a bit more of a bugger....mainly duy to the whole weight thing.......if you are doing this, I would keep a hold of the MK2 for a wee bit.......so your not rushed to do the work. Some people like hte 8v better than the 16v, it depends on how u drive! But the 16v gti is faster than the 8v gti. 0-60 and top speed. Surely u know someone with a 16v that would at least give u a run? Andrew

how could I take 3 minutes to type that?? Little wonder my dissertation aint going smoothly!!! (The very fact I spent 3 minutes typing that (and every other post in the last 3 weeks)is actually whats holding me back!!!)

A belt comes from the crank to the exhaust camshaft, then tbere is a chain under the rocker on the flywheel side connecting the inlet and outlet cam shafts. These are reletively high reving motors, and although they are strong, could be a bit tired if they've led a busy life!! I would sugggest having a comression test done, or else budget around £400-500 for a home rebuild. If you are getting two engines and gearboxes, then between the two, plus rebuild parts, you should have be able to build yourself a good strong engine! Goodluck!

cheers jims16v ......there are a load of pics on club gti website...but only 1 so far contains a corrado!

maybe I'm being thick.....buit this is what i am reading...... Your fullbeam works fine, but the assosiated blue warning light is only on when your are pulling the leaver.....your dipped beam is sh*te (just like everyone else without a modified headlight harness). Am I right?

sinse it is one continuos lenght of wire, all parts of it are at the same potential. If the sleeve is damaged, then there may be a short to earth at the damaged section. If there is a short then theoretically the wire should be at the same potential as the body, ie potential difference of 0v However, in paractice there is a resistance in the wire and also in the short (the electrical connection between the wire and the body, due to oxide layers, physical connection area, capacitiance of two metal areas). Therefore there will be a small voltage drop across the wire...perhaps around 100 to 200mV.

i agree with joe... i think hte point he makes is correct...but even if he is not, the question begs to be asked.....why do you want an unknown variable in the handling of your car??

disconnect the wire at both ends......find a good earth on the bidy somewhere, and check for continuity between the remote cable any the body.....obviously there should be none...but if there is, u know the wires shagged. get back to us once u done that.....

u should check out your compensator mate!

i usually fill up the system with the engine off.....then prime it by disconnecting the hal sender and turn it over for a few minutes....usually there is bubbles and a drop in the fluid level... U probably wont get all the air out untill u run it HTH if different, let me know how u actually do it - incase i've got it all wrong!