andycowuk

is it bonded in like the rallye or ed 1? Or just seals?

is this the right place for that? :shock: :shock: :lol:

I dont have a monitor....was looking down the end of the wire. Matrix stylee

Depending how bad things are, and I hope its not so bad......£150 should easily buy the parts need to replace the head gasket but if u dont do ur own work, the labours gonna skin u bad! I have a complete 2l engine or a 16v head if u need / want them.

last year there was a yellow skyline, with 100bhp+ made by jun auto, it was the made to the same spec as their japanese touring car, but it was sold and I dont think is in scotland any more. The supra was gray and is owned/built by calder coach works. It is near the bottom of this list.... the Jun Auto skyline is about half way down this list, under developed 1996

Dont think so, its all covered by 17 like u say.

I'm with kev on this one, the left and right indicators are two seperate circuits, which converge on the hazard circuit, which includes the relays for flashing and the fuse. The alarm is a likely cause. Its not what youve done that has caused the problem, it will just be a contact in some part of the alarm system has corroded, and now alows current to flow through the hazard circuit. It could be the flasher relay, but that is more likely to show its self by not flashing when it should - but I would try that first cos its easier than checking the alarm, also make sure the hazard switch is not being foolish!! The fuse should be in series with the bulbs, so with the fuse out the bulbs shouldnt be on. This would perhaps indicate that the relay that joins your alarm circuit to the hazard circuit is after the fuse and is the culprate. With the fuse in, half the current flows through the 6 bulbs, the other half earths through the relay, so the lights are dull, with the fuse out, all the current flows through the bulbs, so they are bright. On the other hand, I could be wrong :shock: :lol: :lol: There is one good thing about problems with the indicators, when its fixed you can do the old 'is it working' joke.. ...yes-no-yes-no.... :oops: :cry: :roll:

i cant see cos of the shadows, but has the front splitter been removed? I think that could one of the best i've seen.

i have the same problem, except I have a mk2 to hand which I'm about to butcher. If no one else lets us know before, then I will tell you in the next week or so.

ok ok.....1000 bhp :oops: :oops:

I saw a 100 bhp supra on the drag strip at crail on sunday! It sounded gooood when it lit up the tyres.

and check the cables are free and smooth

i think that was his point. U used to be able to get it cheaper if u made the policy holder the low risk driver, and the named driver the high risk. ur girlfriend will prob be higher risk than u, so it cost more......but ur case is hardly an extreme example....sinse u are over 25 and ur gf is....a girl!! :lol: I am 23 and so is my gf, she brought my insurance down over £100, she is insured on all my mates cars!! (she is a accountant so as I said above this occupation pre-defines her as a safe driver) and its handy too!

haynes say the 8v gti weighs 1003kg. Where does the extra weight come form? head is bigger, the front brakes hubs and CVs are bigger, but surely that doesnt amount to 108kg?

i agree, but if you make a lower liability driver be the named driver whilst the high risk driver is the policy holder, there is a difference.

the head technition at my local gave me a whole lot of duff advice about abs faults, told me it only flagged up electrical faults, not pnuematic or mechanical ones. He didnt like the idea that i was questioning him.

do we drive the same car??

U need to go a good hour to charge up the battery enough! If its not holdong charge it needs replaced. There is the possibility of a short somewhere thats draining it. To test that idea, take the + off at night and see if its flat in the moring....If its flat then its goosed, if its not, then it may a current drain somewhere (or it might just of not lost charge yet). HTH

VT are the best, but may not be the best with standard suspension.... the bush being so hard along with the range of movement from the stock spring and shock, the bush will take on some extra dampening responsibilities that its not really designed for - no idea what this my result in! You will also not get the benifit of the extra stiffness on standard shocks. If you are going to run stock spring and shocks, then I would suggest least stiff powerflex onesor those red bugpac ones. Bugpac do a front kit for about £25 or there abouts - had a kit on my golf, no complaints - woulda used em on the raddo but bugpac dont do rear beam bushes. I got a front and rear Bonrath kit instead. You can get new wishbones from vag with new bushes already in, they are £48 ea i think, or u can buy the new bushes on their own, but I dont know the price. HTH

i love costco! Its next to IKEA in ediburgh, which lets me sneak off to get good tools and stuff, while the missus wastes money on the house :roll: :roll:

also, put your occupation as something like accountant or librarian, people in these jobs are statistically safer, so get insurance benifits.

I think the golf 16v weighs just under 1050kg. I dont know about any one else but i can realy notice the difference in the throw-ability of the raddo compared to the golf.

This is an effect of throttole transition that the engine management *attempts* to correct, to varying degrees of success. When the throttle is suddenly opened wide, the mixture in the cylinder becomes weak due to the air being lighter that the fuel, air fills the cylinder more quickly. The ECU can detect transients in the throttle position, and compensate for the above by injecting more fuel, thisis known as acceleration fueling. I dont know if the VR management copes with this well or not maybe someone else can shed some light on this, but I am certain the G60 is crap at coping with it.....I assume this is what people call digi-lag? the above is not a simple case of fuel starvation, there could be an ample suply of fuel, and this will still happen.

that should have been your first port-of-call almost irrispective of milage, the rubber in the bushes will be shot with age. in terms of the steering precision, standard vag ones will make a massive difference, poly ones even more so.

a one way or check valve to stop the isv leaking the excess boost, but still allow it to perform its idle functions. I havnt looked into suppliers myself as i dont break 0.8 bar (yet). this may also have implications on your fueling. Check with darren or steve.