andycowuk

blue temp sender, lambda probe and co pot all adjust whats going on as conditions change; blue temp send for enging temp, CO pot for air intake changes and O2 probe gives feedback on how its all working. (Wide and closed throttle switches, MAP sensor in ecu, knock sensor etc all add to this mix too) lambda probe controls the co2 etc when your not asking for power and CO pot is reletively redundant, so i'd expect not to see much in the above scenario. Once you ask for power, the lambda gets ignored and it chucks petrol in reletive (in part) to the CO pot position; so the right mix or A/F could be at 450 ohms or could be at 650 - you cant tell unless you have a wideband sensor on there; best you can do is listen for pinking, make it richer to see if that stops it otherwise wind the advance back a bit and lean it off again to see what its like. You'll need to set the co pot to the correct resisitance with the engine off and the co pot disconnected. if the resistance doesnt move with the screw, it may be shot. You set your multimeter based on the maximum reading you expect; expect more than 200, and less than 2000 so its the 2000 setting you want.

You def wont get the full benefit of the speakers running them off the head unit; I'd recomend getting a 4 channel amp to run your fronts and rears... I wouldn't take out the original wiring though, just put new amp-speaker wire in - it doesn't hurt sitting where is been for the last 20 years!

How does the gear slection seem with the engine off and no clutch - still bad? If it feels much better, then may be a clutch issue more so than box. Where does the clutch bite point seem to be? Deffinately carry out the checks above in any case!

lol... yeah, not to be taken out of context!

Got taxed yesterday and went a little shakedown last night - not done much work on it, but its been in my garage for over a year so was half expecting it to be disintigrating as I drove along. I had the mindset that I'd see how it was running, and try to get used to the idea of selling it since it's no longer my 'faster than the daily' weekend toy... Once I was comfortable that the wheels wouldn't fall off, I started chucking it about a bit.... I forgot how many times better it felt to throw arround than the big, fat, heavy, clumbsy, numb rocco!!! :D :D ... needless to say I put it back in the garage with my head full of ideas about replacement exhausts and FMICs... So not going up for sale quite yet! Andrew

Attached diag shows fuel pump relay controls 12v supply to injectors, so as Album 56 says the ecu switches the earth rather than the supply. you've already changed the fuel pump relay, but I think it may be worth putting the old one back in to see... you could also test the old one by connecting 12v across the coil then testing for continuity on the switch. You need to establish how far down the pipe 12v is getting... those wires on the fuel rail have always looked awful on the corrado's i've had, but they have all worked!

Are you taking your measurement at the injector plug or the plug that attaches the 4to1 to the main harness; what if you go further back than that - do you get a voltage at the ECU pin?. What did you get when you measured it beforehand - The more I think about it, I'm not sure what voltage I'd expect on the fuel rail with the engine not running - obviuosly there should be no fuel delivered, so it should be next to nothing....

what price did u get from WBAC for it?

That hole is just to allow you to view the flywheel when you are setting the timing... should have a rubber cover that just pushes in, but isn't critical that its missing... Is it an auto? The holes are oriented perpendicular to that of the bell housing on mine..

you can run 9a complete lump on k-jet, and just swap the cams - i did same with a abf in a mk2 on k-jet, went rather well!

pretty certain its a straight swap...

Hi Mate, I used to meet up with Biggrim occasionally, prob about 2004/2005, and I changed the dash in that car from grey to black with him; if i remember rightly there is some controller located behind the a-pillar kick plate in the passenger footwell (equivalent to where the bonnet release is on the drivers side). Obviously its a good 5 years ago so I don't remember much else! I've not been in touch with him for a long time, so can't help you make contact... Cheers Andrew

Dont know if this has been discussed b4, but can these be remade with some veroboard? Can someone post a pic of the pcb as I can only vaguly remember how it looks!

I haven't looked recently, but I do recall asking about this before when checking continuity on each of the lines - so I think its normal...

Not sure when you should ignore the brakes sticking on? Most likely the piston is sticking, but its only a couple of bolts each side to get the pads out and clean up the carriers to make sure they are not causing an issue. New front calipers are nothing like the price of rears irc

I got a Fidanza alloy one for my g60 (2nd hand and unused) and was really excited about it - tbh I only noticed a difference when shifting down the gears. I'm glad I didnt pay fidanza price for it. The weight of the crank shaft is much more significant than the flywheel, so the % weight saving in rotating mass from the flywheel is hugely diminished by that.... ie there wasn't so much point in me putting alloy flywheel on standard crank.

just get the correct size of o-ring from RS or similar - a circle can be a oval pretty easily! RS Online - Seals Alternatively use instant gasket....

The powerflex ones are reletively soft and can be put in yourself too... The tough bit is getting the rubber out of the sleaves in the old bushes - it will seem invincible to every tool you own. Then some careful hacksawing can split the sleeve so that you don't need to get it removed at a garage... From memory, the front (smaller) powerflex bush comes in two halves and can be put in by hand from either side, the rear ones need to be squeezed in with a vice - copper grease everywhere is a must. Things to watch for if you do it this way... 1. Make sure you don't badly score the inner face of the wishbones with the saw (mild marks shuold be ok). 2. When you are pressing in the rear bush, make sure it stays square when its starting to go in (IIRC there is a rounded side to the whishbone hole and an angled edge on one side of the bush) HTH

Since I was putting mine back together tonight, I thought I'd take a few pics of the parts, and a video of the mech working before i put the lid on - just used copper slip, time will tell how that lasts compared to the special VW jizz... Left and right rear guides - both of the left hand ones are broken, the right hand ones are both fine. Two varying degrees of brokeness too; the top one with the sprung finger closest to the rocker missing actually jammed and snapped the cable, whereas the slightly bent bottom one only resulted in the tilts but doesn't slide issue. So annoying that these are so fragile and sensitive [attach]46248[/attach] [attach]46249[/attach] Front guides - these appear to be just as fragile as the rear, but not nearly as critical. [attach]46250[/attach] And a quick video to celebrate it being fixed.... battery is about flat as the car hasn't been used in almost a year...

stick a jubilee clip round it, some WD and throw it back on. it'll be sweet. I really like the 'built with what was available' cars at the change from early to late - Late shape, late colour, early engine - early interior? I really like flash red - i miss my old one - it was early shape, late colour... Really nice looking - I'd happily swap mine for one with a mint shell and a blown charger!

nice one! I hate how there seems to be a halo effect with broken parts!!

There'd be two easy ways to achieve this...... 1 - Put a relay in parallel with the headlight switch thats fired from the ignition switch - that'd mean that the when the ignition is on the lights are on irrespective of switch position. 2 - Kill the sidelights when the headlamp switch is on and the ignition is off (this already works on the dipped beam, so just add the logic to the sidelight circuit ie, sides and HL both source ignition power, or use a relay on the ignition loop to break the sidelight circuit when ignition is off) The problem is both of these have downsides - option 1 wouldn't give you a OE style option to turn off dipped beam while driving (although you could have easily have a non-OE switch to kill the relay spur), option 2 wouldn't allow you to turn on the sidelights when the ignition was off. The cars with auto lights have a 4 postion light switch (off, auto, side, dipped).... we'd need to intorduce a 4th position using a second input which to retain all 4 options. You could cut out front fogs on stage 1 of the fog switch for the DRL, or intorduce another fog switch to one of the blanks? If any of those ideas floats your boat, then can think about it more!

I cant remember exactly which way round they are just now, but I'm sure you have a temp sender and a high pressure switch on the oil cooler/filter housing, and a low pressure switch on the charger feed.. from memory the temp sensor is the smaller of the two on the oil filter.

if you imagine the wheels are normally at the 9 and 3 positions on a clock face, as you lower the car they get to 10 and 2, so the distance between shortens. In these terms, on standard suspension they start at more like a 8 & 4, and go through 9 & 3 when you lower about 40mm, so you'd need to be lower than a racing snake to have track rods that were too long... ie getting on for 11 & 1. In practice the steering rack is close to the same height as the control arm , so this effect shouldn't be that significant... (sure you could work it our with a tape measure, pythagoras and some SOHCAHTOA :dorky::ubergeek: ) Could you cut a half inch off the outside end of each track rod - is there spare thread visable beyond the lock nut as it stands just now? Might give you enough to get things lined up - but it is very wierd that you have this problem - can't offer any other explanation other than what Supercharged has suggested.

I think you're right in saying that, but my corrado's an early so can't check for you to be sure.... If its the same plug, the sunroof mech is the same fitment so surely it'll work!?! Yours if you want it, awaiting pm to confirm either way!