24V Renshaw

EUUUUGGGGHHHHH!!!!!

When I had my MOT I had almost exactly 20K more on the clock than the previous year. I drive the car everywhere (including 40 miles to work everyday). For those that say they like to "keep it nice". If I won show and shine at inters doing 20K a year you have no excuses! :) Jay

I had a big pile of bits beed blasted then powder coated satin black. That included the subframe, wishbones, modified pedal box, front crossmember, rad support, front ARB, brake disc guards, power steering pipe and a box full of little clamps and brackets. All for £100 cash. Which considering how good they have come out is a bargain. It is pretty heat resitant, can't see why it could not be used for a rocker cover, although would you not be better getting it anodised being ally? Jay

Its not as bad as you would think. Will be doing the final stages this weekend, so will post pictures up of everything on Sunday. Jay

Well I figured as everything is going to be brand new I might aswell do a proper job! Cheers for the offer Andy but I have bought a 12 tonne press so will be using that. :)

Just got my first couple of bits from the powder coaters and all I can say is WOW!! They look brand new. The subframe and wishbones don't look bad :) Pick the rest up tomorrow then I can start putting the new steering rack on, all the new poly bushes, ball joints etc.. Jay

LOL, didn't know you did it mate! :) Still I hope this will help you a bit if you do it. Jay

Cheers Henny. Nutter Nah. The people who pay £500 to get a gearbox rebuilt are the nutters! :) Jay

Andi - I guess I am just lucky! :) Pau1 - The oven trick is quite a common method of fitting bushes, bearings etc.. so I figured it would work on a crown wheel. There are two options for loosening the fit, heat up one bit or cool down the other, or if they are different metals or one is cast and one is billet, heat up both. Woody - I bought the diff from a bloke at the Bournemouth Rally who was running a 16v MK2 Golf. He had changed for a different gearbox and was keeping the diff as a spare until I convinced him to sell it to me! :) Guy - Yes I will be putting a balanced VR6 flywheel on. As for the syncros I am currently in the process of checking all the clearances to make sure none of them need replacing. They all look fine but time will tell. Jay

I will continue this next weekend, when I have put it all back together with new seals, bearings etc..

Next comes the more complex bits. You need to establish what the preload shim size needs to be for the diff. There will be a shim between the output bearing outer race and the casing on the passenger side. You need to remove this bearing and shim and then fit the new bearing outer race without the shim in place. Place the diff with its new bearings into the lower casing and then fit the second casing on and bolt the two together. Using a Dial test indicator (DTI) carefully zero it against the diff output shaft and then moving the diff up and down measure the float. Whatever the float measures you need to fit a shim to achieve effectively -0.4mm float (0.4mm Preload). So for example my float was 0.5mm. Therefore I need a 0.9mm shim to achieve a 0.4mm Preload. Remove the passenger side bearing outer race and fit the new shim, then refit the bearing outer race again. Time consuming but essential.

Yep, I have been spending a lot of time and money in the stealers recently. Some of it though is for my VR6 gearbox rebuild. See http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Jay.

Next I spent a while cleaning everything as much as I could. I managed to get the casings pretty clean on the outside using turps and a conical wire brush in a drill. You can also press out the outer races of the tapered roller bearings if required. I have down both the main output bearings, just because I wanted to.

So you now have the gearbox apart. Next step if you are fitting a new diff is to remove the crown wheel from the old diff. In order to do this you need to drill out all the rivets in the diff.

The next step is to remove the selector tower. Remove the bolts holding it top and bottom, then knock the base round to break the sealant allowing easy removal. Remove the two torx bolts from the casing that hold the reverse gear selector inside the box. One is down inside the casing (down the side of the 5th gear assemblies), the other is on the bottom of the box. Next remove all of the bolts holding the two casing together. Then carefully knock the two apart using a hammer and a block of wood. This will expose all the gear stacks, the selectors and the diff.

I figured as I was doing it and everyone told me "its a nightmare", "don't do it", "pay someone else to do it" etc.. i figured I would do as much of a write up as I can about doing the strip down of the 02A gearbox along with the install of the Quaife Torque Biasing Diff. This is not to be used as an exact "how to" but more as a guide to some of the less obvious bits of the job. If you are undertaking a task like this I am assuming you have the basics sussed already! :) So here goes. First of all you will need, alongside the standard socket set etc.. A 12 tonne press. A full set of Torx keys up to size 60. A full set of spline keys. A Dial test indicator. A large 2 leg puller. First stage is to clean the "average" gearbox.

Cheers h100vw they seem excellent. Just need to establish if I can get each parcel under 70Kg and under the size limit. Cheers Jay

I couldn't wait mate! Plus a mate of mine runs a VW parts shop :) Jay

Has anyone on here ever shipped anything fairly big and heavy to the US or Canada. I have someone who desperately wants to buy my V6 4motion running gear and they are in Canada. I need to find someone who can ship it over there at a sensible ish price. Any help or info would be appreciated. Cheers Jay

I paid £170 for Powerflex bushes on the front. Thats everything. That included Front wishbone rear mounts Front wishbone front mounts Front ARB drop link bushes Front ARB mount bushes Front Crossmember bushes (all four) Steering Rack clamp bush I had already put new OE rear bushes in not long before this conversion started. Jay

The best combination I have found is Poly front and OE rear. The poly front ones tigheten everything up nicely but don't transmit any more noticeable vibration etc.. through the car. The rear ones both give you passive rear steer and are bolted directly to the shell so transmit a lot more from the road. I had poly rear ones and they were awful on the Corrado. I was so impressed with them with my G60 set-up I have just ordered the complete set of poly bushes for the front end of mine as part of the 24v V6 install. Not just the wisbone ones but the ARB ones, the Steering rack bush, the front cross member bushes etc..etc.. Jay

I see you have removed the scuttle tray Darren. Going for the smooth bay then? Jay

i swear by them. They are the best thing by miles for removing any soft residue from anything! Jay

As I have said before on here use a "caramel wheel" basically its a giant pencil rubber disc that you put in the end of a drill. It is used by bodyshops to remove trim and badge glue without damaging the paintwork. You can get them from bodyshop supply shops. Forget thinners etc.. as it just softens it and pushes it around Hope that helps Jay

Go to a local builders merchant and get some GripFill. Its incredible how well it sticks to bodywork! Jay